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help me with my check engine lights

5K views 29 replies 3 participants last post by  Future_RHD_SR20 
#1 ·
So i have five codes

Code 13- mass air flow sensor circut

Code 23-Idle switch (throttel valve switch) Signal circut open

Code 34- Knock sensor

Code 45- Injector fule leak

Code 51 Fule injector circut open



Okay so code 34 is obvious, swap out knock sensors and done deal

but what is all this circut bs????

and open circuts?
fule injector leak? that means open injector right? But how would i be able to find out which one? And how is the circut open? ugh im so lost

help me 240 genious'
 
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#2 ·
The Cali KA24E had a knock sensor? That's the first I've ever heard of that.

Code 13- Make sure the MAFs plug is plug in, and make sure none of the wires are broken or corroded.

Code 23- The "Idle switch" is just another way of saying your TPS is bad or not plugged in.

Code 34- Like I said above, I've never heard of a KA24E with a knock sensor, but I would love to be proven wrong.

Code 45- Injector leak.... I'm guessing one is stuck open or is operating intermediately.

Code 51- I'm assuming this means a stuck injector. Ohm each injector. You'll know when you found a dead one, lol.
 
#3 ·
yeah i looked at autozone and no knock sensor for my single slammer. But why is ith throwing that code????????


and im buying all the parts listed for 50 shipped. Good deal no? even if i dont need all the stuff.

But eveerything is plugged in. What is my next step? Just replace them and call it a day?
 
#4 ·
Are you sure its giving you code 34? Your buying a MAFs, TPS, an injector and I'm assuming o-rings for $50? That's a damn good deal, lol.
Oh, btw. I just double checked the codes. Code 13 is not the MAFs, its the CTS. Recheck the codes and see if you get a 34 again. My guess would be you got a 33 and just mistook it for a 34. 33 is the o2 sensor.
 
#5 ·
i watched and watched over and over. they are the right codes.

i think im getting the codes wrong, like a bad or wrong soruce

can you tell me what all five of the codes are?

Cause i just re did it and thoes are all the 5 codes im getting

thanks.. I knew you would be the only one on here helping fix my single slammer
 
#6 ·
Your correct on all the codes except the Code 13, which is the Coolant Temp Sensor not the MAFs. What I would do first is make sure everything is plugged in. Make sure nothing accidentally came loose throwing a code. Once you do that, clear the ECU. Supposedly you can clear the codes just cycling from Mode 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and back to Mode 1 but sometimes it doesn't work. I would disconnect the negative batt terminal, press the brake pedal a couple times and let it set for at least 5 minutes. This should clear your ECU of any fault codes.
After 5 min, reconnect the batt terminal and start the engine. Let it idle for 1 minute on the first start, don't rev it or anything. Go for a test drive and if the check engine light comes on, see what codes pop up.
 
#7 ·
maybe i have the wrong ecu in my car if its throwing that code for a sensor i dont have?

Well everysince i sea foamed my car the check engine light goes on and off daily. Like at least 5 times a day. Could that mean anything?

tomorrow ill get my dad to read the codes and see if he gets the same as me
 
#9 ·
im thinking wrong ecu maybe?

i know its for a five speed cause i have a limiter and speed govener (not that id know, wink wink)

Cause i know the codes i wrote down have to be right. I watched them and played them back for ten minutes just to make sure

is there a difference in dual cam ecu's and single cams?
maybe i need a single cam ecu? How can you tell the difference?
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
there is sooo many lol

but that is going to help me alot. Im gonna check out tomorrow once the sun is out and its not cold

thanks again for always replying and helping
 
#13 ·
i have a question.

what am i looking for? like which one. Cause on the chart there is like 30 for a single cam manule trans 90 240sx
 
#16 ·
i was too busy to re write numbers but illl try to do it tomrrrow.

i want the CEL gone already.

Weird thing is that every since i sea foamed my car the check engine light comes on and off atleast 15 times a day (not exsaterating) depending on how much i drive it comes on and off
 
#18 ·
me and my dad are confused

here is a video
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid609.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt179%2Fmalachi_is_supa_raw_yo%2F1206000854.mp4">
 
#20 ·
it was throwing codes like 03 and 05.

so i came up on a 90 5 speed ECU at the junk yard for the price of $free. Gonna swap that in and see what happens
 
#21 ·
So aft swaping ECUs. Getting code 55. Resting then i finally get a code that makes sense.

Code 32. Because before i ever sea foamed my car the light was constantly on. Now it goes on and off. So....How to fix this problem? I was thinking of just sea foaming again. But thats not good. But im going to the junk yard tommorrow. I know i need something to swap it out but idk what?
 
#22 ·
With the engine running, reach behind the intake plenum and push the EGR diaphragm up (careful, it'll be hot if the engines warmed up). If the EGR is function correctly the engine will choke a little bit and start to stall. Also, make sure your EGR solenoid is plugged in, and check the vac lines as well. Here's a pic of the EGR solenoid.

 
#25 ·
everything is plugged in and nothing happenes when i push any of the lines, and none are cracked or anything. So do you think you could find me one sitting around?
 
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