Ok so I have been slacking majorly. So finally I’ll start my build thread. I bought a 89 240sx hatch for 1 grand, a builder. The car has 196k on it original motor and was missing between 2, and 3. It had a dent along the drivers side fender. Also the glass on the drivers rear quarter was broken out.
So I bought it bought the glass for 60 at a junkyard, and pounded out the fender. I drove the piggy around the block, and damn had no power on 2.5 cylinders. After doing a compression test I figured that it most be a head gasket. I started ripping off the head only to find that the timing chain tensors were broke in 20 pieces.
So I pulled the motor, stripped it all apart. Threw new clevite main and rod bearings, and a timing kit from parts plus. Re-assembled the long block and threw it back in. added a apexi sri and tried to start it.
Damn, failure, the compression was lower across 2, 3, and 4 now. With the dramatic loss in compression I figured the head must have been warped or cracked. So I bought another one online. Cheep, head, but still thought that I should take it down to a machine shop to have it inspected, so I wouldn’t have to do this work a third time. I got a call the next day from the machine shop telling me that 8 valves were leaking. Some exhaust and some intake mostly crushed lifters.
At this point I was getting frustrated, ended taking the original head back off and down to the same shop. Once again got a call the next day, but good news, this head is perfectly fine. The bad news is that my compression was jacked on three cylinders, which now means either the block is warped or more likely that the rings are fried.
This brought me to the option of swap or build. Now I have had this before with my 97 accord (the gas saver) to use a tank of a SOHC or swap to the race ready DOHC. All, an all I like the option of building and boosting the ka24e more then any of the numerous swaps. So piece by piece, I have been inching my way toward a built motor.
My plan is to build the motor, start using it as a daily driver for the break in period. During this time save up, and swap the transmission to a 5 speed. After that is said and done, do a suspension build to handle road corse. Not that I am not going to drift it, yet enjoy the standard race circuits more. Then last but not least do a turbo build.
My goal is to reach in-between 400-450whp.
Parts I got so far for the motor are
-Arias 8.8/1 pistons. .02 over
-AMS/ K-1 sportsman rods
-ARP 11mm head studs
-Arp main studs
Parts still needed for the motor are
-TOGA main and rod bearings
-TOGA high flow oil pump
Other parts I have
-Apexi SRI
-Greddy E-management ultimate.
pretty sweet dude. good luck with the build. sucks that you had to go through so much BS. im definitely watching this thread i wana see this KAE become a mean monster.
it will be a kae-t once all is said and done, but it is a slow going process. I also fried my last mac book which was an extra 1350 expense that threw me off this last week. still i think i will have the motor running by next month.
that sucks sorry to hear that dude. finally figure out what my problem was with the sr, blew the head gasket, so i have been working on rebuilding it. my timing was off too. one of my chain guides was broken so i had to replace it. if my head gasket comes in today, the will be on my the morning. just take your time on the build to get it done right.
ok so an update finally. I just got the block back from the machine shop. now the install of pistions and rods.
I don't know what the machine shop is trying to say but that is the worst spelling of my last name ever.
here is the polished crank
now torque and re-torque.
I had a problem with the arp main-studs. basically I can not find a 12 point, 12mm deep socket. so had to drill out the wall on the socket, and bearly fit the 3/8" drive in. I would rathe break my tq wrench or socket then strip the arp nuts.
now the glory shot.
I'll get more work done on saturday, but now to be at work all day. Happy Halloween.
damn I over looked one thing...........
bad gas. I have to work 12 hours the next two days. damn I hate salary. friday I will drain the tank and clean it.
What kinda condition is the head in? I know on post #7 you said it was used, but did you check the valve seating? Is the initial timing set correctly?
That kinda sounds like a KA I had with bent valves.
The easiest way to align the distributor with the oil pump is to match the two punch marks up and install. When its in the right position you should see the half moon facing straight up and down (looking down from the top). If its tilted clock or counter-clock its advanced or retarded.
hmm well the head I used is the original head, that I had checked. nothing was leaking or warped. I did line up the two notches on the oil pump, but it looks like it is pointing to between 7-8 o-clock. ( if i rember right) with the crank on tdc should I be lining it up like this.
__*____________= timing pin
.__.__.__.__.__.__= crank pulley notches
-5_0_5_10_15_20_ = degrees
Hmm. If its pointing at 7-8 o'clock your at least 1 if not 2 teeth retarded on the drive gear. The drive gear looks like this " / " with the D pointed toward the firewall correct?
The timing will cause a horrible running engine but It shouldn't cause that low compression.
When you did the compression test, did you have the gas pedal at WOT? Its easy to forget.
no I didn't, I just figured it was because the rings hadn't sealed yet, only having like ten min. of run time that is. no the D on the distributor, but the rotor is pointed at the 1st terminal on the cap.
I'm not 100% sure which way the open "D" shape points but I've always just had a buddy watch from up top to see when it was straight up and down.
Align the pump and drive shaft and put it in. Once it faces 12 o'clock your right on the money.
none really I brought it down to my old bosses shop. I have been working 64 hours a week now, and just don't have the time. I'll check tomorrow and see if he's gotten a chance to look at it.
nice thread dude lookin good i plan to do the same to mine once i gether runnion and the head gasket back on haha and are you going to remove the egr lines and vacuum lines when you re assemble?
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SHIT happens!!!!
Whip:
2007 Chevy Cobalt ls (intake, HO intake mani, Header, Straight pipe exhaust,short shift, custom interior, 2 10" subs powered by 1000w pyle driver amp, Lowered 2.5 via Sportline springs, tinted tails)
Pignose Fan Club
MEMBER #301
Well,.,.,.,.,., I finally got her running yesterday. It was the ignition timing. Hell I must of installed that oil pump like 50 times. The damn cog kept on shifting during install though. Now I got it lined up and running smooth. Next step is going to be the trans swap, and suspension build.
When I drove it to my new place yesterday it would slip out of third. I hate automatics! any who does 25k rpm sound high for 40mph? I guess it must be right. I Have the original window sticker, and it says that it get 20mpg city, and 24mpg highway.
I dunno...that might be right on an auto. I know my 5 spd seems to rev higher than most cars at the same speed, but it stays in the powerband too so I don't mind. It's been so long since I had my old auto that I don't remember what it should rev at though.
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Pignose Fan Club Member #293
1989 Piggy Hatch-status: Stripped car and tearing down S14 KA for a rebuild
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