Im Casey. been on here for awhile since i was 11 or 12. im 15 had my car for about 2 years. a 90 hatch that i got for free. ive got about 4500 into it and im almost done so i figured i would get around to making a build thread. other than a few things, ive done all the work myself. I waiting for clutch, starter, and flywheel so i can actually get the motor in.
how the car sits now. freshly painted roof and engine bay.
engine-ca18 with ssac manifold, elbow, downpipe. voodoo MBC. valve covers and pulleys soon to be powdercoated.
Transmission-s14 sr mated with the ca bellhousing. had to tear that bitch completely apart.
Stitch-welding: the car is almost completely stitch welded, some rust holes patched up, its going to be a pretty solid car. pic on right-that entire support was cracked and holes
drivers side- completely done
pass. side- not finished, ran out of flux core
Awaiting parts to go on the car:
SR clutch, flywheel, starter
ARP flywheel bolts
HKS knockoff bov
Ksport coilovers
Ill probably add more when i think of it
Full roll cage coutesy of SPP
seats and harnesses.
More updates next week when i get my clutch and shit, so i will get more when i get the motor in.
steering wheel is from Chris at AMS performance. and murphy i havent made it that far, like i said i ran out of flux core and the welder isnt even mine so time is limited. i plan on making some extra brackets. but i did the rears so i will do the front. i just hate to mess up that nice new paint.
its looking good so far man, but one thing i gotta ask, is this going to be stricktly a track car or a DD too? i hope you have another car to learn to drive on cause this isnt going to be too forgiving if something happens.
im 16 and have had my car since 15, i couldnt imagine having a car at 13 lol, are you doing this build solely by yourself or do you have your dad or someone helping along the way? Looks like an awsome build, can wait to see updates. Im hopeing to start a build up of my own soonn so keep an eye out
i learned to drive in daves car. but yes this will be a DD. im am fully aware of how unforgiving it will be. and i have done everything by myself. like i said ive been swapping motors since i was 13. i only had help pulling the motor. i like to do everything myself the wiring the welding the painting. everything.
Damn pretty good build, you'll have to tell me how the stitch welding feels I'm going to consider it sometime down the road too. Your parents must be pretty cool to let you do that in their garage for that many years; my parents almost shit a brick when I took a week to do my manual swap in the garage.
just got the clutch and flywheel. confirmed that the flywheel bolts do not work, they are a little long and im starting to think that the sr bolts will work. safe to shave a couple threads off the arp bolts?
SR flywheel bolts will work with the CA. they tourque down and everything the ARPs were a little long.
You can use the the SR clutch and flywheel WITHOUT the SR starter as the SR starter doesnt even fit!
The car is officially running but i need to get my intercooler piping squared away before i can say it runs right. turned 16 today by the way so i'll be able to get my liscense. fucking right. picked up the welding wire for battery cables, battery, and terminals for 70 bucks. the welding wire is nice by the way. shielded and everything and only $1.34/foot at tractor supply. i love tractor supply but all their tools are "mini" compared to what i use everyday at the weld shop at my local technical school that i go to.
how about more info on stitch welding? I am curious. I want a street car with grip racing in mind (drifting = *thumbs down*). I have KYB AGX with s-tech springs running 3/4 front and 6/8 rear. Polyurethane bushings all around, subframe spacers, new lca, new balljoints, new f&r endlinks, and a buncha other stuff, It's good... compared to what stock once was... but I want more and more always hehe...
that is a decent suspension . i have AGX on the way and sporlines sitting in my living room. thats all my budget allowed. work on the car slowed down due to me working. but the stitch welding is simple. if you have a welder. the pieces of a 240 are put together by over lapping two pieces and welded by a resistance spot welder. they arent that strong at all. leaving room for flex for example, the pillars that the back seat backs are mounted to. you can move them with your hands but after being welded they feel like solid supports. weld a 1-1/2-2" bead ever 1 or 2" on any seem you can find. thats it. they are everywhere. core support, shock towers front and rear, supports, the roof even.
well a friend of mine has a welder and his two buddies are good at welding (one of their dad's into welding).
I wish and want to know more as to what and where to weld, so I can tell them, and how, with what type of welder, with which method, what exactly, etc... they could help me do it (my friend and his two friends also have 240SXs, except mine is the most modified). They'd all love to do it as well no doubt, so it would be great if you could be more elaborate, detailed, etc... Like I said I am not sure evne what type of welder or what type of welding method, etc... They would be the ones doing it for me.
a shitty one. all you need to know. i plan on getting a stick welder though. something cheap. and stick is easy as shit, give me some 6013 and 7018 and they will look a hell of a lot better than that. that was before i started my welding course too so.
I hope the guy who welded that didn't tell you he was good!!!!! That looks like shit. Please take a grinder and smooth those out. And make sure they actually penetrated the metal, not just sitting on top. Not trying to give you a bunch of shit, i am a welder at caterpillar and i am use to having all of my welds critized.
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Removed......
" I came into this world kicking and screaming in someone else's blood! And I have no problem going out that way too!"
a shitty one. all you need to know. i plan on getting a stick welder though. something cheap. and stick is easy as shit, give me some 6013 and 7018 and they will look a hell of a lot better than that. that was before i started my welding course too so.
why would you waste your money on a stick(arc) welder??? your not gonna be sitting in your car or welding up a manifold with a big bulky, messy weld arc welder. Arc is old tech. and used mainly today for serious welding, like heavy iron work and bridges and stuff because you can make a lot bigger weld with it. If your gonna buy anything get a descent mig welder. Mig can be used for practically anything. If you dont want to spend a lot of money either, they got some descent lincoln electric migs at home depot
I hope the guy who welded that didn't tell you he was good!!!!! That looks like shit. Please take a grinder and smooth those out. And make sure they actually penetrated the metal, not just sitting on top. Not trying to give you a bunch of shit, i am a welder at caterpillar and i am use to having all of my welds critized.
the welds penetrated quite decently. im a welder too, not a certified welder but i know what i need and what to look for. those welds will do for now, like i said i welded with a broke ass $180 mig before having any instruction. the only reason a wanted a stick is because its the cheapest and will give me the best results for 200. its also what im used to, all i mess with is industrial welding. the only other welding ive really messed with is oxyfuel. by the end of this next semester i will have done some more mig and tig and maybe be able to save up enough for one of the old oven sized arc, mig, tig welders at school. mig is just too fucking boring.
Dude save your money and get the Lincoln Tig 185 It's a great welder. I had a chance to work with one up at school and It was a dream. The welds are truly beautiful and at 1800 it's the best value per dollar you will find. I've been trying to get one for my shop for a while so I'll definitely reccomend it. You run into alot of potential issues with older welders. Just make sure you know/trust the previous owner. Oh and make sure It'll run on 110 wall current or a 220 outlet if you have one because anything bigger wont run at in your garage? But good luck your car keep up the good work. Those are pretty good welds for a cheapy mig.
the welds penetrated quite decently. im a welder too, not a certified welder but i know what i need and what to look for. those welds will do for now, like i said i welded with a broke ass $180 mig before having any instruction. the only reason a wanted a stick is because its the cheapest and will give me the best results for 200. its also what im used to, all i mess with is industrial welding. the only other welding ive really messed with is oxyfuel. by the end of this next semester i will have done some more mig and tig and maybe be able to save up enough for one of the old oven sized arc, mig, tig welders at school. mig is just too fucking boring.
who cares if mig is boring, arc is just a waste of money unless your welding up a bridge. your not gonna every see anyone stitch welding a car with an arc welder or welding a turbo manifold with an arc. old technology, messy welds
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