I just got my first 240 what should I do first - Page 2 - Nissan 240SX Forums
Beginnerís Forum **240SX 101. NO FLAMING ALLOWED**

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post #26 of 195 Old 12-29-2009, 09:27 PM
 
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^ +1 i think this might be a good place to go for some next steps on my car.

"Seize the day."
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post #27 of 195 Old 01-01-2010, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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No problem just trying to help. In feb I'm going to do a nuther set of how to's covering checking and seting timing, tps, maf, ext and checking all sensors for there rite volt/power readings b4 I go in for smog yet agen.

I think my last run was messed up by my evap and bad o2 giving to mutch fuel.

But after tonite I start my busy time of work and wont let up tell end of feb or when I start shcool.

sorry for bad spelling.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #28 of 195 Old 01-16-2010, 08:06 PM
 
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just maintain it as much as u can if u slide it slide it have fun!
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post #29 of 195 Old 01-16-2010, 08:26 PM
 
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DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod DD_mod
for diff...before you open drain plug, open fill plug first cause if you can't open fill plug your screw.....


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post #30 of 195 Old 03-03-2010, 12:17 PM
 
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i recently bought a s13. so im excite to work on it. but this tool will help me. i dont know much about it but im excite to know a lot. my mr2 in the shop now so i needed a daily driver so im glad i bought a 240sx hatch
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post #31 of 195 Old 03-03-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'm glad this helped I still have not done any more work on her in a few months I'm trying to get more than a d in some of my classes. Along with spending $700+ on are dd the quest lol and the weather. I'm still going to show how to adjust tps and check all sensors for working properly. I'll have something up in a few weeks I have spring break but I am taking a class over it. so I can only work in good weather.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #32 of 195 Old 03-07-2010, 10:05 PM
 
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sugestions

Hks hi-power exhaust if ya cant stand it quiet link below
but if your in 2 slidin sideways...yea buddy!!...try some hard coilovers or sway bars or cooling stuff

HKS Hi-Power Catback Exhaust Nissan 240SX 1995-1998
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post #33 of 195 Old 04-02-2010, 01:14 PM
 
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Hi Everyone, I think it's time to change all the oils for my car, it's a 1995 240SX (S14), with the original KA24DE engine, this is my first 240 and I've driven it for like 5 months, and I've never change the oil cuz the ex-owner told me he just changed all the oils at October 2009, but I think I better get them all changed. So how many quarts of ENGINE OIL, GEAR-BOX OIL and can I use the GEAR-BOX OIL as the LSD OIL?

Thanks
Franco
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post #34 of 195 Old 04-04-2010, 05:01 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franco1230 View Post
Hi Everyone, I think it's time to change all the oils for my car, it's a 1995 240SX (S14), with the original KA24DE engine, this is my first 240 and I've driven it for like 5 months, and I've never change the oil cuz the ex-owner told me he just changed all the oils at October 2009, but I think I better get them all changed. So how many quarts of ENGINE OIL, GEAR-BOX OIL and can I use the GEAR-BOX OIL as the LSD OIL?

Thanks
Franco
You would probably get better feedback if you asked in DropTeam21's What do you use thread.

2002 Trans Am WS.6

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Looks like a 7-10 Split to me!
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post #35 of 195 Old 06-14-2010, 12:56 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropteam21 View Post
Any one that has been a member of this forum for more than 2 weeks has seen 1 or more of this questions posted. Well I will show all you new people what you need to do first. What follows is a list of how to's covering many things. All done on my s13 ka24e some things will change on the de but over all its a good guide.

I wish the pics where better.

1. clean motor trans and diff
2. replace distributor cap & rotor
3. changing spark plugs and wires
4. changing coolant
5. replacing fuel filter
6. replacing rack and pinion boots and tie rod ends
7. cleaning mas air flow (maf) sensor
8. changing differential (diff) fluid
9. replacing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (pcv) valve
10. oil and filter change

CLEANING MOTOR
tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty 0.2 *
trash bags
masking/duck tape
degreaser
power washer wire brush

If you have a power washer good. If not try going to a do it your self car wash late at night. If you can not a garden hose will have to do. Let the motor cool rap the distributor alternator air intake and any other electrical parts with trash bags and tape them up take wire brush to any caked on oil/dirt then spray with degreaser do this to the motor/head tranny and diff fallow the cans directions you may have to repeat a few times then wash clean. Then remove bags and your done.

REPLACING DITRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR
Tools price $20+ time 10 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
10mm socket ratchet and extension

With motor cool take screw driver and remove the 2 small screws on ether side of the cap remove cap with wires still on. then look for the small 10 mm bolt on the side of the rotor un do it (don't drop it) pull the rotor off and slip new one on ( It only goes on one way). Then take the new cap put it on in revers of removal not hard at all. then take one wire at a time off old cap and put on new cap in the same order so you don't have to pull out the fsm to find the firing order.




CHANGING SPARK PLUGS AND WIRERS
Tools price $40+ time 30 min difficulty *
ratchet
5/8 socket
extension
spark plug gap tool
anti seize

start by removing moving the spark plugs from the boxes and checking the gap for mine they needed to be .44 all of them are set rite from ngk. Then remove the first spark plug closest to the front of the car put it in the box and label it 1 then brush the threads of the new plug with anti seize and start by threading it in by hand you don't want to cross thread them and mess your hole day up. after its in hand tight tq it to factory specs. then trace the wire back to the distributor and remove it install the new wire then move to the next one and so on. If you remove them one at a time you wont mix up the firing order. Also if you keep track of the old plugs you can look at the condition and see how the motor is running lean rich so on.




CHANGING COOLENT
Tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty *
8mm socket and ratchet
coolant
something to drain coolant in to

let the car cool for many hrs on the bottom of the radiator drivers side is a drain valve unscrew it and let coolant drain in to pain tighten it back on fill motor with water only run motor for 1 min with heater on high then let car cool re drain water after car has cooled if water is any color besides green or a light rust color you may need to run a flush or if its milky brown you have an oil leak. but assuming that's fine take a clean milk jug and fill it 1/2 with coolant and 1/2 with water fill the radiator tell it is full then remove this bolt on the manifold and run the car with heater on high fill it tell water comes out the hole some say having the front of the car lifted helps. after water comes out of the hole tern off car reinstall bolt and replace radiator cap. test drive watch for over heating when you get home let cool and check coolant level add if needed.


REPLACING FUEL FILTER
Tools price $12 time 15 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
TT300zx/240sx fuel filter

Pull fuel pump fuse run car tell it dies disconnect battery unscrew clamp from top of fuel filter on pass side of car. after removing clamp remove hose with it raped in rag it may still have pressure you don't want gas flying everywhere. Then remove hose clamp on the bottom and hose reinstall new filter checking hoses for cracks and splits. Try not to cut the hose fuel injector hose is like 7.00$ a foot so in less you need new hose try to safe what you got. tighten up the hose clamps and reinstall fuse run car looking for leaks.


REPLACE RACK AND PINION BOOTS AND TIE ROD ENDS
Tools price $60 time 2 hrs difficulty **
what ever you need to get your tires off key socket good old lug wrench
pickle fork or rent a front end serves kit from kragen/napa/autozone.
19 mm wrench X2
wire cuter
cleaning supplies q-tips
grease

OK start off by getting the front of the car off the ground remove tires pick a side cut and remove cotter pin from tie rod end spray with pb blast let sit clean where the keeper bolt meets up with the tie rod end. You want to be able to make a mark on it to see so you can have your alignment set to what it was b4. after that remove the bolt connecting the tie rod end to the hub assembly then bust the keeper bolt lose.but don't move it you need it in the same spot to keep your alignment rite.Then you can remove the tie rod end from the rack and pining and hub assembly mark where the nut is. then cut and remove the old boot and take q-tips and paper towels and clean up any crap b4 installing new boot put a light layer of grease on the ball joint b4 putting on the boot. Then zip tie the new boot in place put back on the keeper nut to where the mark is you made then thread on the new tie rod end and tighten up the keeper nut reattach to the hub and tighten putting in a new cotter pin.
the part you need to get lined up rite.





On mine I had gotten a master bushing set that came with new tie rod end boots yours will just be black also they have a grease able fitting in the bottom, the stock ones did not. Any time you mess with the ride height or alignment you will want to go get it relined. I have to go get one done on my car after having done the master bushing kit.

If you have the extra $ now is a good time to install rack and pinion bushings just remove the 4 bolts remove the Top clamp pull out the old bushings and install the new ones a little harder than it sounds but you can do it.
the old bushing


CLEANING MAS AIR FLOW SENSER AND NEW AIR FILTER
Tools price 6+ air filter 11-250$ time 45min difficulty *
phillips screwdriver
maf cleaner

Remove air intake box buy undoing the 2 hose clamps and 2 electrical connections after the top is removed you can replace filter.moving on to the maf un bolt it from the housing taking extreme care not to heart it(new ones $200) there is a small o-ring inside you might want to replace when you remove it. fallow the maf cleaning instructions like i said be extremely careful nothing but the cleaning product touches the 2 wires DO NOT take a q-tip to them don't let the hose hit them either. I also cleaned the runner where the sensor goes just to be on the safe side then reinstall the sensor the way it came apart.
Any one in need of the o ring can hit me up I have 6 of them i had to by a set of 6.





CHANGING DIFF FLUID
Tools price $11+ time 25 min difficulty *
1/2'' ratchet
5'' 1/2'' extension
something to catch oil

Jack up and support rear of car after its cool down remove the bottom plug let fluid drain reinstall it and remove top plug fill tell fluid comes out replace plug and tighten. If fluid is really bad you can put some cheap fluid in the first time run it for 10-15 mils then drain and refill with good fluid so you can flush all of the crap out. You don't have to you can just do a drain and fill. This was my first time draining mine and it went way faster than i was thinking it would even having to run to napa for a 1/2'' extension.





REPLACE PCV VALVE
Tools price $3 time 5 min difficulty 0.1*
pliers
crescent wrench

remove clamp with pliers remove hose loosen pcv valve with wrench remove it install new one and re hook up hose and clamp. So easy a cave man can do it.



CHANGE OIL AND FILTER
Tools price $17+ time 15 min difficulty *
14 mm wrench

With motor cool lift pass side place pan under oil pan remove drain plug then remove oil filter take new oil filter lube the gasket on the top with new oil then re tighten oil filter. Reinstall drain plug or if you can get a magnetic drain plug like i did 7$ off line. Then refill with the rite amount of fluid (just depends on what motor you have.




Rap up I did not give all detail like how much to tq things to because all the things on different motors vary and I'm not looking them all up. Also safety first disconnect battery use jack stands and safety glasses don't dump oil on the ground recycle it if your working under the car have a friend with you( some one to lol @ you when the car falls on you) or maybe help get if off you hand you tools and so on. I know i missed a lot of tune up things like check timing replacing belts and hoses but you can do that your self.

I hope this helped if the admins find this worthy I'd like to see it get stuck I know it has a lot of easy things in it but I've seen a lot of ez questions get asked.

In the next few days I will be installing air/fuel gauge and voltmeter I'll also show how to replace a o2 sensor then.
you forgot to add " cut your springs and slam it to the floor" haha jk
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post #36 of 195 Old 07-11-2010, 04:54 AM
 
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great thread, i loved the presentation!!!! hey, i actually need a o ring for my maf so let me know, ill pay shipping!!! ha ha how much you want?


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0 to 60 in 3.2 months!!
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post #37 of 195 Old 07-11-2010, 05:28 AM
 
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Clearer pics would be jawlsable

Quote:
Originally Posted by *ka24e* View Post
Oh man, your a dick hole ^^ j/k, lol. I actually agree with you on some things tho. As far as engines being flooded...... An engine flooded with water is no worse than running royal purple in your engine.
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Originally Posted by 240sx_kid_11 View Post
Man that man that made me laugh so hard I had to sig it me laugh so hard i had 2 sig itH
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post #38 of 195 Old 07-12-2010, 08:10 AM
 
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Reported for deletion on the last days posts.

Keep the crap in Off Topic or X-Files.

This isn't either, and certainly isn't a WTB thread for o-rings.

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Boostin likes Feria, Feria likes Boostin, I like Scoot, Scoot likes hatch, hatch likes feria, everyone likes Boostin, nobody likes me
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And college kid is jealous he is not involved.

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Sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *ka24e* View Post
Oh man, your a dick hole ^^ j/k, lol. I actually agree with you on some things tho. As far as engines being flooded...... An engine flooded with water is no worse than running royal purple in your engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sx_kid_11 View Post
Man that man that made me laugh so hard I had to sig it me laugh so hard i had 2 sig itH
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I know you learned your lesson though... never slow down when the cops start to follow you.
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post #41 of 195 Old 07-12-2010, 08:04 PM
 
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Good job on creating this thread, a lot of info thanks.


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post #42 of 195 Old 07-14-2010, 03:45 PM
 
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do all that and after you should install a kill switch its fairly easy
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post #43 of 195 Old 08-11-2010, 12:02 PM
 
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can someone show me how to do the rack/pinion/axle/shocks/etc

i read the original post but it seems complicated but maybe im making it more complicated than it is.
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post #44 of 195 Old 08-11-2010, 12:46 PM
 
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i read the original post but it seems complicated but maybe im making it more complicated than it is.
You aren't making it more complicated than it is. The OP's English skills are challenged to say the least.

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Looks like a 7-10 Split to me!
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post #45 of 195 Old 08-11-2010, 12:59 PM
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post #46 of 195 Old 08-11-2010, 02:08 PM
 
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Oh yeah, I'm still around. I work in agriculture so I'm really busy in the spring and summer and not very busy in the fall and winter.

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Looks like a 7-10 Split to me!
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post #47 of 195 Old 11-02-2010, 03:34 AM
 
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this is sick bro thanks for posting. im not a super mechanic and dont know much about car engines. but i gotta start somewhere. this all looks like somewhat easy stuff and looks healthy for the car anyway. thanks again!
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post #48 of 195 Old 11-03-2010, 09:14 PM
 
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just got my 240

Hey guys so i just got an 89 240 and its running a little rough sometimes it doesnt wanna start on the first turn but then on the second try it starts rite up but doesnt idle good until you gve it alittle gas then it idles great. theres no check engine light but i know its not running the way it should be. any tips that could help me fix it ?
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post #49 of 195 Old 11-04-2010, 06:51 PM
 
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good info thanks


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post #50 of 195 Old 12-24-2010, 12:42 AM
 
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Very nice write-up. What type of fluid did you use for the rear diff? I was told 80w-90. Is that right?
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