I just got my first 240 what should I do first - Page 6 - Nissan 240SX Forums
Beginnerís Forum **240SX 101. NO FLAMING ALLOWED**

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post #126 of 196 Old 03-03-2013, 11:59 AM
 
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One thing I was thinking of is this thread says to change the coolant but leaves out the thermostat. The thermostat makes a huge difference to the cooling of the car and your heat. That definitely should be one thing you change with a coolant flush, it just makes sense while youre working on that part of the car too especially when youre working on a stock 240sx like mine where the thermostat still could be the original. I flushed my coolant once a week ago when I bought the car but it still comes up a rusty color so a full on flush is going down today.
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post #127 of 196 Old 05-06-2013, 09:44 PM
 
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nice. good advice. will do definitely when i get another 240
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post #128 of 196 Old 05-20-2013, 07:15 AM
 
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Impressive!
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post #129 of 196 Old 05-29-2013, 06:43 AM
 
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240

thanks
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post #130 of 196 Old 05-29-2013, 07:02 AM
 
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For ur first 240

Skip the B.S. pull the motor and but a v8 in it!!!!
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post #131 of 196 Old 05-29-2013, 07:55 AM
 
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Skip the B.S. put a v8 in it

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post #132 of 196 Old 05-30-2013, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropteam21 View Post
any one that has been a member of this forum for more than 2 weeks has seen 1 or more of this questions posted. Well i will show all you new people what you need to do first. What follows is a list of how to's covering many things. All done on my s13 ka24e some things will change on the de but over all its a good guide.

I wish the pics where better.

1. Clean motor trans and diff
2. Replace distributor cap & rotor
3. Changing spark plugs and wires
4. Changing coolant
5. Replacing fuel filter
6. Replacing rack and pinion boots and tie rod ends
7. Cleaning mas air flow (maf) sensor
8. Changing differential (diff) fluid
9. Replacing positive crankcase ventilation (pcv) valve
10. Oil and filter change

cleaning motor
tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty 0.2 *
trash bags
masking/duck tape
degreaser
power washer wire brush

if you have a power washer good. If not try going to a do it your self car wash late at night. If you can not a garden hose will have to do. Let the motor cool rap the distributor alternator air intake and any other electrical parts with trash bags and tape them up take wire brush to any caked on oil/dirt then spray with degreaser do this to the motor/head tranny and diff fallow the cans directions you may have to repeat a few times then wash clean. Then remove bags and your done.

Replacing ditributor cap and rotor
tools price $20+ time 10 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
10mm socket ratchet and extension

with motor cool take screw driver and remove the 2 small screws on ether side of the cap remove cap with wires still on. Then look for the small 10 mm bolt on the side of the rotor un do it (don't drop it) pull the rotor off and slip new one on ( it only goes on one way). Then take the new cap put it on in revers of removal not hard at all. Then take one wire at a time off old cap and put on new cap in the same order so you don't have to pull out the fsm to find the firing order.




changing spark plugs and wirers
tools price $40+ time 30 min difficulty *
ratchet
5/8 socket
extension
spark plug gap tool
anti seize

start by removing moving the spark plugs from the boxes and checking the gap for mine they needed to be .44 all of them are set rite from ngk. Then remove the first spark plug closest to the front of the car put it in the box and label it 1 then brush the threads of the new plug with anti seize and start by threading it in by hand you don't want to cross thread them and mess your hole day up. After its in hand tight tq it to factory specs. Then trace the wire back to the distributor and remove it install the new wire then move to the next one and so on. If you remove them one at a time you wont mix up the firing order. Also if you keep track of the old plugs you can look at the condition and see how the motor is running lean rich so on.




changing coolent
tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty *
8mm socket and ratchet
coolant
something to drain coolant in to

let the car cool for many hrs on the bottom of the radiator drivers side is a drain valve unscrew it and let coolant drain in to pain tighten it back on fill motor with water only run motor for 1 min with heater on high then let car cool re drain water after car has cooled if water is any color besides green or a light rust color you may need to run a flush or if its milky brown you have an oil leak. But assuming that's fine take a clean milk jug and fill it 1/2 with coolant and 1/2 with water fill the radiator tell it is full then remove this bolt on the manifold and run the car with heater on high fill it tell water comes out the hole some say having the front of the car lifted helps. After water comes out of the hole tern off car reinstall bolt and replace radiator cap. Test drive watch for over heating when you get home let cool and check coolant level add if needed.


Replacing fuel filter
tools price $12 time 15 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
tt300zx/240sx fuel filter

pull fuel pump fuse run car tell it dies disconnect battery unscrew clamp from top of fuel filter on pass side of car. After removing clamp remove hose with it raped in rag it may still have pressure you don't want gas flying everywhere. Then remove hose clamp on the bottom and hose reinstall new filter checking hoses for cracks and splits. Try not to cut the hose fuel injector hose is like 7.00$ a foot so in less you need new hose try to safe what you got. Tighten up the hose clamps and reinstall fuse run car looking for leaks.


replace rack and pinion boots and tie rod ends
tools price $60 time 2 hrs difficulty **
what ever you need to get your tires off key socket good old lug wrench
pickle fork or rent a front end serves kit from kragen/napa/autozone.
19 mm wrench x2
wire cuter
cleaning supplies q-tips
grease

ok start off by getting the front of the car off the ground remove tires pick a side cut and remove cotter pin from tie rod end spray with pb blast let sit clean where the keeper bolt meets up with the tie rod end. You want to be able to make a mark on it to see so you can have your alignment set to what it was b4. After that remove the bolt connecting the tie rod end to the hub assembly then bust the keeper bolt lose.but don't move it you need it in the same spot to keep your alignment rite.then you can remove the tie rod end from the rack and pining and hub assembly mark where the nut is. Then cut and remove the old boot and take q-tips and paper towels and clean up any crap b4 installing new boot put a light layer of grease on the ball joint b4 putting on the boot. Then zip tie the new boot in place put back on the keeper nut to where the mark is you made then thread on the new tie rod end and tighten up the keeper nut reattach to the hub and tighten putting in a new cotter pin.
The part you need to get lined up rite.





on mine i had gotten a master bushing set that came with new tie rod end boots yours will just be black also they have a grease able fitting in the bottom, the stock ones did not. Any time you mess with the ride height or alignment you will want to go get it relined. I have to go get one done on my car after having done the master bushing kit.

If you have the extra $ now is a good time to install rack and pinion bushings just remove the 4 bolts remove the top clamp pull out the old bushings and install the new ones a little harder than it sounds but you can do it.
The old bushing


cleaning mas air flow senser and new air filter
tools price 6+ air filter 11-250$ time 45min difficulty *
phillips screwdriver
maf cleaner

remove air intake box buy undoing the 2 hose clamps and 2 electrical connections after the top is removed you can replace filter.moving on to the maf un bolt it from the housing taking extreme care not to heart it(new ones $200) there is a small o-ring inside you might want to replace when you remove it. Fallow the maf cleaning instructions like i said be extremely careful nothing but the cleaning product touches the 2 wires do not take a q-tip to them don't let the hose hit them either. I also cleaned the runner where the sensor goes just to be on the safe side then reinstall the sensor the way it came apart.
Any one in need of the o ring can hit me up i have 6 of them i had to by a set of 6.





changing diff fluid
tools price $11+ time 25 min difficulty *
1/2'' ratchet
5'' 1/2'' extension
something to catch oil

jack up and support rear of car after its cool down remove the bottom plug let fluid drain reinstall it and remove top plug fill tell fluid comes out replace plug and tighten. If fluid is really bad you can put some cheap fluid in the first time run it for 10-15 mils then drain and refill with good fluid so you can flush all of the crap out. You don't have to you can just do a drain and fill. This was my first time draining mine and it went way faster than i was thinking it would even having to run to napa for a 1/2'' extension.





replace pcv valve
tools price $3 time 5 min difficulty 0.1*
pliers
crescent wrench

remove clamp with pliers remove hose loosen pcv valve with wrench remove it install new one and re hook up hose and clamp. So easy a cave man can do it.



change oil and filter
tools price $17+ time 15 min difficulty *
14 mm wrench

with motor cool lift pass side place pan under oil pan remove drain plug then remove oil filter take new oil filter lube the gasket on the top with new oil then re tighten oil filter. Reinstall drain plug or if you can get a magnetic drain plug like i did 7$ off line. Then refill with the rite amount of fluid (just depends on what motor you have.




rap up i did not give all detail like how much to tq things to because all the things on different motors vary and i'm not looking them all up. Also safety first disconnect battery use jack stands and safety glasses don't dump oil on the ground recycle it if your working under the car have a friend with you( some one to lol @ you when the car falls on you) or maybe help get if off you hand you tools and so on. I know i missed a lot of tune up things like check timing replacing belts and hoses but you can do that your self.

I hope this helped if the admins find this worthy i'd like to see it get stuck i know it has a lot of easy things in it but i've seen a lot of ez questions get asked.

In the next few days i will be installing air/fuel gauge and voltmeter i'll also show how to replace a o2 sensor then.

ever heard of a fucking comma?!?!
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post #133 of 196 Old 05-30-2013, 06:42 AM
 
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So....your first post is complaining about someone's write-up from 4 years ago...

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And college kid is jealous he is not involved.

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post #134 of 196 Old 06-03-2013, 10:20 PM
 
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So....your first post is complaining about someone's write-up from 4 years ago...
haters gotta hate lol
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post #135 of 196 Old 06-19-2013, 04:06 AM
 
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thanks for posting this, i replaced some of these but needed more guidance on what else to replace
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post #136 of 196 Old 06-23-2013, 05:23 PM
 
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Very detailed and Clear instructions you sure your not a Professor for Harvard hhaha Thanks for the info man GReat stuff and To be honest i could see clearly what you where doing in the pictures...
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post #137 of 196 Old 06-23-2013, 10:52 PM
 
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very nice
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post #138 of 196 Old 06-24-2013, 01:04 AM
 
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That's a good write up ill have to look into some of that things.
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post #139 of 196 Old 06-25-2013, 01:12 PM
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Nice info, many thanks
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post #140 of 196 Old 07-06-2013, 08:58 PM
 
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Drift
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post #141 of 196 Old 07-08-2013, 05:25 PM
 
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I would do suspension and diff first
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post #142 of 196 Old 07-09-2013, 04:57 AM
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Thanks for the great advice!
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post #143 of 196 Old 07-15-2013, 01:43 PM
 
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definitely a definitive list of good things to do first
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post #144 of 196 Old 08-01-2013, 02:26 PM
 
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great thread. just what i needed
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post #145 of 196 Old 08-12-2013, 10:47 PM
 
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going to be referring to this thread when i purchase my 240, thanks for the information
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post #146 of 196 Old 08-17-2013, 08:40 PM
 
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Great post. If there's anything I've learned it's that safety has to come before power. Suspension, big brakes, proper seats - all of that should come before a turbo because of not, you'll end up in my situation. Since I was unable to stop my sr20 powered Silvia front end s13 on a canyon run with it's crappy stock brakes, now I have to replace a silvia front end instead of spending all that cash on more upgrades....

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post #147 of 196 Old 08-19-2013, 06:00 AM
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newbe

I just got my 1st 240 s14 and I want some ideas on what rear end to go with?
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post #148 of 196 Old 08-19-2013, 06:05 AM
 
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Now that you got your first 240, the FIRST thing you need to do is donuts in a high school parking lot until bitches start falling on your dick.

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post #149 of 196 Old 08-19-2013, 11:59 AM
 
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Now that you got your first 240, the FIRST thing you need to do is donuts in a high school parking lot until bitches start falling on your dick.
Lol


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Wasnt directed at Midnight, I like him (all homo).
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I mean shit, a prelude in need of pepto bismol farted past me today and it ruined the rest of my day.

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<credits to collegekid
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post #150 of 196 Old 08-21-2013, 01:02 AM
 
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This helps a lot! I just got my S13 on Saturday with barely any fluids in it at all. plus a broken headlight to (The rod connecting to the motor headlight so it wont go up or down) So far I added some oil, coolant, fuel injection, a new battery (it was crap and went with duralast as the replacement), windshield wipers (those where just rusted away) and brake fluid. I'm planning on replacing the spark plugs and its wires tomorrow. Other than that she runs a dream right now. As a first car I love it every second driving it, couldn't be happier! Mines a 1993 red Hatchback.
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