I just got my first 240 what should I do first - Nissan 240SX Forums
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post #1 of 196 Old 09-26-2009, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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I just got my first 240 what should I do first

Any one that has been a member of this forum for more than 2 weeks has seen 1 or more of this questions posted. Well I will show all you new people what you need to do first. What follows is a list of how to's covering many things. All done on my s13 ka24e some things will change on the de but over all its a good guide.

I wish the pics where better.

1. clean motor trans and diff
2. replace distributor cap & rotor
3. changing spark plugs and wires
4. changing coolant
5. replacing fuel filter
6. replacing rack and pinion boots and tie rod ends
7. cleaning mas air flow (maf) sensor
8. changing differential (diff) fluid
9. replacing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (pcv) valve
10. oil and filter change

CLEANING MOTOR
tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty 0.2 *
trash bags
masking/duck tape
degreaser
power washer wire brush

If you have a power washer good. If not try going to a do it your self car wash late at night. If you can not a garden hose will have to do. Let the motor cool rap the distributor alternator air intake and any other electrical parts with trash bags and tape them up take wire brush to any caked on oil/dirt then spray with degreaser do this to the motor/head tranny and diff fallow the cans directions you may have to repeat a few times then wash clean. Then remove bags and your done.

REPLACING DITRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR
Tools price $20+ time 10 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
10mm socket ratchet and extension

With motor cool take screw driver and remove the 2 small screws on ether side of the cap remove cap with wires still on. then look for the small 10 mm bolt on the side of the rotor un do it (don't drop it) pull the rotor off and slip new one on ( It only goes on one way). Then take the new cap put it on in revers of removal not hard at all. then take one wire at a time off old cap and put on new cap in the same order so you don't have to pull out the fsm to find the firing order.




CHANGING SPARK PLUGS AND WIRERS
Tools price $40+ time 30 min difficulty *
ratchet
5/8 socket
extension
spark plug gap tool
anti seize

start by removing moving the spark plugs from the boxes and checking the gap for mine they needed to be .44 all of them are set rite from ngk. Then remove the first spark plug closest to the front of the car put it in the box and label it 1 then brush the threads of the new plug with anti seize and start by threading it in by hand you don't want to cross thread them and mess your hole day up. after its in hand tight tq it to factory specs. then trace the wire back to the distributor and remove it install the new wire then move to the next one and so on. If you remove them one at a time you wont mix up the firing order. Also if you keep track of the old plugs you can look at the condition and see how the motor is running lean rich so on.




CHANGING COOLENT
Tools price $10 time 30 min difficulty *
8mm socket and ratchet
coolant
something to drain coolant in to

let the car cool for many hrs on the bottom of the radiator drivers side is a drain valve unscrew it and let coolant drain in to pain tighten it back on fill motor with water only run motor for 1 min with heater on high then let car cool re drain water after car has cooled if water is any color besides green or a light rust color you may need to run a flush or if its milky brown you have an oil leak. but assuming that's fine take a clean milk jug and fill it 1/2 with coolant and 1/2 with water fill the radiator tell it is full then remove this bolt on the manifold and run the car with heater on high fill it tell water comes out the hole some say having the front of the car lifted helps. after water comes out of the hole tern off car reinstall bolt and replace radiator cap. test drive watch for over heating when you get home let cool and check coolant level add if needed.


REPLACING FUEL FILTER
Tools price $12 time 15 min difficulty *
fillips screw driver
TT300zx/240sx fuel filter

Pull fuel pump fuse run car tell it dies disconnect battery unscrew clamp from top of fuel filter on pass side of car. after removing clamp remove hose with it raped in rag it may still have pressure you don't want gas flying everywhere. Then remove hose clamp on the bottom and hose reinstall new filter checking hoses for cracks and splits. Try not to cut the hose fuel injector hose is like 7.00$ a foot so in less you need new hose try to safe what you got. tighten up the hose clamps and reinstall fuse run car looking for leaks.


REPLACE RACK AND PINION BOOTS AND TIE ROD ENDS
Tools price $60 time 2 hrs difficulty **
what ever you need to get your tires off key socket good old lug wrench
pickle fork or rent a front end serves kit from kragen/napa/autozone.
19 mm wrench X2
wire cuter
cleaning supplies q-tips
grease

OK start off by getting the front of the car off the ground remove tires pick a side cut and remove cotter pin from tie rod end spray with pb blast let sit clean where the keeper bolt meets up with the tie rod end. You want to be able to make a mark on it to see so you can have your alignment set to what it was b4. after that remove the bolt connecting the tie rod end to the hub assembly then bust the keeper bolt lose.but don't move it you need it in the same spot to keep your alignment rite.Then you can remove the tie rod end from the rack and pining and hub assembly mark where the nut is. then cut and remove the old boot and take q-tips and paper towels and clean up any crap b4 installing new boot put a light layer of grease on the ball joint b4 putting on the boot. Then zip tie the new boot in place put back on the keeper nut to where the mark is you made then thread on the new tie rod end and tighten up the keeper nut reattach to the hub and tighten putting in a new cotter pin.
the part you need to get lined up rite.





On mine I had gotten a master bushing set that came with new tie rod end boots yours will just be black also they have a grease able fitting in the bottom, the stock ones did not. Any time you mess with the ride height or alignment you will want to go get it relined. I have to go get one done on my car after having done the master bushing kit.

If you have the extra $ now is a good time to install rack and pinion bushings just remove the 4 bolts remove the Top clamp pull out the old bushings and install the new ones a little harder than it sounds but you can do it.
the old bushing


CLEANING MAS AIR FLOW SENSER AND NEW AIR FILTER
Tools price 6+ air filter 11-250$ time 45min difficulty *
phillips screwdriver
maf cleaner

Remove air intake box buy undoing the 2 hose clamps and 2 electrical connections after the top is removed you can replace filter.moving on to the maf un bolt it from the housing taking extreme care not to heart it(new ones $200) there is a small o-ring inside you might want to replace when you remove it. fallow the maf cleaning instructions like i said be extremely careful nothing but the cleaning product touches the 2 wires DO NOT take a q-tip to them don't let the hose hit them either. I also cleaned the runner where the sensor goes just to be on the safe side then reinstall the sensor the way it came apart.
Any one in need of the o ring can hit me up I have 6 of them i had to by a set of 6.





CHANGING DIFF FLUID
Tools price $11+ time 25 min difficulty *
1/2'' ratchet
5'' 1/2'' extension
something to catch oil

Jack up and support rear of car after its cool down remove the bottom plug let fluid drain reinstall it and remove top plug fill tell fluid comes out replace plug and tighten. If fluid is really bad you can put some cheap fluid in the first time run it for 10-15 mils then drain and refill with good fluid so you can flush all of the crap out. You don't have to you can just do a drain and fill. This was my first time draining mine and it went way faster than i was thinking it would even having to run to napa for a 1/2'' extension.





REPLACE PCV VALVE
Tools price $3 time 5 min difficulty 0.1*
pliers
crescent wrench

remove clamp with pliers remove hose loosen pcv valve with wrench remove it install new one and re hook up hose and clamp. So easy a cave man can do it.



CHANGE OIL AND FILTER
Tools price $17+ time 15 min difficulty *
14 mm wrench

With motor cool lift pass side place pan under oil pan remove drain plug then remove oil filter take new oil filter lube the gasket on the top with new oil then re tighten oil filter. Reinstall drain plug or if you can get a magnetic drain plug like i did 7$ off line. Then refill with the rite amount of fluid (just depends on what motor you have.




Rap up I did not give all detail like how much to tq things to because all the things on different motors vary and I'm not looking them all up. Also safety first disconnect battery use jack stands and safety glasses don't dump oil on the ground recycle it if your working under the car have a friend with you( some one to lol @ you when the car falls on you) or maybe help get if off you hand you tools and so on. I know i missed a lot of tune up things like check timing replacing belts and hoses but you can do that your self.

I hope this helped if the admins find this worthy I'd like to see it get stuck I know it has a lot of easy things in it but I've seen a lot of ez questions get asked.

In the next few days I will be installing air/fuel gauge and voltmeter I'll also show how to replace a o2 sensor then.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #2 of 196 Old 09-27-2009, 12:13 AM
 
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I believe this is a good add to this Forum. Full Tune Ups should always be the first thing someone should do after buying a used car along with replacing bushings. Especially on a S-chassis because most of them have more than likely had a hard life. I also think this should become a STICKY.
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post #3 of 196 Old 09-27-2009, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
 
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not to be so high on my self I already did a how to on that months ago b4 project car did the one on the white coupe.http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/do...hing-swap.html I will be adding the rack and pinion bushings in the next day or so.

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post #4 of 196 Old 09-27-2009, 05:28 AM
 
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A lot of work for a car that has yet to see the road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dropteam21 View Post
In the next few days I will be installing air/fuel gauge and voltmeter I'll also show how to replace a o2 sensor then.
FYI, an Air/Fuel gauge will make you fail SMOG, ask Jesus.

2002 Trans Am WS.6

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Looks like a 7-10 Split to me!
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post #5 of 196 Old 09-27-2009, 07:11 AM
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Very Nice, Stickied...


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post #6 of 196 Old 09-28-2009, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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On a side not If you do the rack and pinion boots, if you can afford to do the bushings now is the time not having the tie rods bolted up will give you more play to move the bushings in to place. They will run you 17 by themselves or a master kit for 120 if you shop around.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #7 of 196 Old 09-29-2009, 05:48 AM
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^Master kits can be had for $87


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post #8 of 196 Old 09-29-2009, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240-kid View Post
^Master kits can be had for $87
Damn I was so happy when I got mine for $117 shipped. The hard works done any way. Doing the rack and pinion bushings yesterday reminded me how much of a pain in the ass they are.

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post #9 of 196 Old 10-06-2009, 11:10 PM
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thanks for the advice
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post #10 of 196 Old 10-07-2009, 02:48 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxSilveradoxXx View Post
A lot of work for a car that has yet to see the road.



FYI, an Air/Fuel gauge will make you fail SMOG, ask Jesus.
you only fail smog if you have a sensor with no aux output, for the ecu to read. otherwise its the same thing

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post #11 of 196 Old 10-07-2009, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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What he means is we had a friend who had a air fuel gauge on his car i think he had to reff it and they said pull it off. My fix to this problem is tap in to the wire by the ecu not by the sensor and when i go o smog it i can just unplug and pull the gauge on smog day. its just i failed smog 4 times on my rebuilt ka24e. last time they said i was rich and had failed evap i got evap fixed and just about everything that can affect emissions I'm just debating on whether to get a new cat or not.


yah its not wide band i just need to know if I'm rich lean or rite on. I'm not planning on tuning on it so it will work just fine for what i need.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #12 of 196 Old 10-07-2009, 11:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikethebiker View Post
you only fail smog if you have a sensor with no aux output, for the ecu to read. otherwise its the same thing
To pass SMOG in Cali you can't modify any emission related part unless it's CARB OE certified, that includes the engine wiring harness. If the SMOG tech sees any of your engine wiring harness wires spliced or modified in any way they will fail you.

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post #13 of 196 Old 10-07-2009, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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To pass SMOG in Cali you can't modify any emission related part unless it's CARB OE certified, that includes the engine wiring harness. If the SMOG tech sees any of your engine wiring harness wires spliced or modified in any way they will fail you.
Well that's why I'm taping in to it rite next to the ecu will be covered by the kick panel. But think for the heads up and clarification. I'll also pull the gauge when i go back in.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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it wouldnt be hard to make a quick plug for an oem sensor when you have to go in. theres always ways around that shit

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post #15 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 02:15 AM
 
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I don't think we are on the same page. DropTeam21 is wanting to hook up a narrow-band gauge using his stock O2 sensor.

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Looks like a 7-10 Split to me!
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post #16 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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yes its narrow band from what I've read you can hook up the signal wire any where after the plug on the o2 to injen harness my plain is about 12'' b4 the ecu in the cabin of the car then rout it to the gauge and the gauge is a 4 wire hook up ground power signal and dimer for night time driving its a 4 pin connector it will be nothing to pull the gauge and leave the pillar pod empty or stuff an old water tep gauge in there.

Well it is now OCT 8TH my bday I'm going to go get one of my presents talk to you later.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #17 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 04:01 AM
 
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wow i was just waiting for you to say
for everything else theres mastercard


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then nut all over it and shove it down your pathetic throat and laugh at u when u gag and die slowly u piece of shit.
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post #18 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 10:34 AM
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For future reference for the OP, you should try finding the macro option on your camera. Change it to the little flower instead of the two hills for clear close up shots. The ones there are a bit too blurry.

Other than that, wicked intro.


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post #19 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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For future reference for the OP, you should try finding the macro option on your camera. Change it to the little flower instead of the two hills for clear close up shots. The ones there are a bit too blurry.

Other than that, wicked intro.
ever since my daughter riped the scream off my camera it wont take pics for shit regardless of what it is what its set to or how far away it is.

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post #20 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 12:22 PM
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Did you mean screen? If so, then I can see your dilemma.


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post #21 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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lol my bad i just got up and cant spell for shit i just clicked on what ever spell check was saying "screen"

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post #22 of 196 Old 10-08-2009, 12:59 PM
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Gotcha. That sucks. But at least the camera still works!


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post #23 of 196 Old 10-12-2009, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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I was asked to do a rite up on how to do the self diagnosis on the ecu this is how to do it on the ka24e idk if its the same for the de. First thing you have to do is remove the passenger side kick panel. After you do that you need to unbolt the 2 10mm bolts that hold the ecu in place. Then flip the ecu around with out unplugging it.


Grab a peace of paper and pen you will need to rite down what codes pop up. Mark where the screw is with a grease pen or finger nail polish So it can be set back in the rite spot.

Put the key in and turn it but do not start the car. Now turn the adjustment screw on the ecu all the way clock wise the light will blink one time then 2 times then 3 times after 3 turn it back it is now in self diagnosis mode. The lights will start flashing the code. Red is for the first number green for the 2nd. If you have one code it will keep flashing the same one over and over if you have more than one it will keep going throw them one after the other.

so if its :red red red red---- green green green it is 43

The codes are:
11 Crank angle sensor circuit
12 Air flow meter circuit
13 Engine temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition signal missing in primary coil
31 E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit)
32* EGR function
33 Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit
35* Exhaust gas temperature circuit
43 Throttle position sensor circuit
45* Injector leak
55 No malfunction

*California models only.


After you have written down the codes turn the car off turn the key back on this time let the light flash 4 times this will clear the codes. after that fix what needs to be fixed and re clear the codes.

Your done bolt ecu back up and put kick panel back on.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
SUN PRO-PILOT-NGK-STREET GLOW

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post #24 of 196 Old 10-12-2009, 09:43 PM
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post #25 of 196 Old 10-12-2009, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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that's a nice rite up but mine has 2 crappy pics lol that's got some good info. shit up until like 3 months ago I did not even know you could get a code off the ecu.

TEIN-KYB-PROTHANE-CLARION-BAZOOKA-NOS-ROCKFORD FOSGATE
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