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post #1 of 14 Old 04-07-2017, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Post Size of 240sx and lots of questions

Hello! This is my first time posting here.

First thoughts
I am looking to get a 240sx coupe shell. Ive seen a good deal and would like to purchase it. But I can't work on the car because I don't live in a place where I can work on the 240sx yet...
But, me and my family will be moving to a new place (I think May or late June?) where I could possibly work on the 240sx in the future. But right now, I live in an apartment. Side note: there is no garage at the new place just outdoors. Should I look into a weather cover? Or a small car tent thing? And is this a good idea? Everyone that ive talked to is saying "yes go for it" Parents are very skeptical though.

STORAGE
I would like to store my 240sx until I am able to work on it.
Question: what is the bare minimum size of a storage unit to store a 240sx? I think its 10' x 15'? I just need to store it, I searched on google and it gave me this number: 177″ L x 68″ W x 51″ H. I'd like to know what this is in feet. And what do I need to do in order to keep it in storage for 2-3 months?


ENGINE SWAP
I'm thinking about getting this car as a project car. This will be my first ever car. The 240sx i'm looking at alreay has no engine and the owner already has a bunch of drift ready parts in it. Ive been thinking about putting in a regular KA24de engine or a Rb25det or 26dett? (looking for a drift car, having a gtr engine inside would be cool) Is the Gtr engine worth it? Or stick to KA 240sx engine
Also, where can I buy a good quality engine?
Someone said that I should avoid using ebay, even though I see many cool looking engines. I don't know anywhere else I can get a good engine.

RENTING TOOLS
Ive also heard that you can rent parts from your local auto shop. So I was thinking about renting one of those engine cranes from a auto store.
Please note: I am really prepared to do anything to load in the engine, even if I have to learn a a lot of stuff.

COMPATIBILITY
Will these engines be compatible with the 240sx? And if so, what needs to be changed for a 240sx. Like transmission and clutch? (I'm so sorry, i'm so new to this) What needs to be changed in order for the 240sx to run?

Which engine should I use? (I would like to do some drifting)
KA24de, Ka24det (when it has no turbo (ka24de), does that mean I cannot put in a turbo in the future? like there's nowhere to put the turbo>)
Rb25de, Rb25det (gtr r32 engine)
rb26dett? (twin turbo r34 engine)
Sr20det engine (ive talked to some people online, saying that the sr20det has less torque than the Ka engine)
Are these engines good for drifting? I know the Ka certainly is. What are your thoughts?

AFTERMARKET PARTS
The car already comes with a
5 speed isis shifter
Pbm fully adjustable coil overs
Adjustable toe and camber rods
NRG quick release with wheel
S15 driver seat s14 passenger
& a 2 way lsd
What other parts do I need for the engine and shell?
For example: Cooling? Turbo?


If anyone is able to answer all my questions, that would be awesome. Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-08-2017, 01:03 AM
 
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You made me register just to reply lmao.
Let me help you out.

First Thoughts:
Found a good deal? Hop on that. Personally, I'm buying a rolling coupe shell here in 2 weeks for $500. Really clean, no rust, and straight rails.


STORAGE:
I'd say go ahead and get a bigger storage unit than the 10x15 unit. Maybe see if they don't have a unit that's 20 ft long. Hell, see if your friends have any space that you can store it in (preferably enclosed like a garage.)

According to the dimensions google gave you the car is 14.75 feet long, ~5.7 feet wide, and 4.25 feet tall.

Since it's just a shell, all you should really have to do is keep moisture out of the unit. To do that just go to the store and pick up a bunch of silica gel balls (you know the little packets that come in your shoes when you buy them that say "DO NOT INGEST"? Yeah, those.


ENGINE SWAP:
This is 100% personal preference. Since this is your first car, and first project, I'd say something that isn't too challenging to do and won't break the bank. A CA18, SR20, or KA24 are direct swaps and shouldn't need any different mounts like a JZ, RB, or LS engine would and generally won't break the bank. Personally, I'd shop around. Find someone that's yanking out a KA24DE from their 240 and try and buy it all (engine, tranny, harness, ecu, etc) from them for cheap and then build it to a KA-T. Nissan never made a turbocharged KA24, it's all 100% aftermarket. SR20's are nice but I'm not a fan, driven 2 friends cars and they've both had that annoying angry bee sound and feel. Never driven a CA18, or even seen one personally, but they're pretty cheap and I'd say the only ones worth getting are the turbo ones. RB's are nice but a lot of people complain about oiling issues and such but those can easily and usually cheaply be remedied. And just for a fresher-upper, your information is wrong. All GTR's, R32-R34 came with the RB26DETT, not just the 34. IMO, the RB26 is overpriced and for that price you could build a just as powerful RB25. I'm going with an RB25 because I found a complete engine for cheap. Also look into the different generations/series of motors. SR20's had the Red top, Black top, and notch top, and maybe another but I don't know much about SR's. RB's had S1/2/3 and the NEO. Don't just limit yourself to Nissan though. Toyota is always a good, dependable choice. They have the 1/2JZ engines, the UZ (V8) engines, and even the BEAMS 3SGE. As well as the "oh so common" LS swap.

Quote:
Also, where can I buy a good quality engine?
Just search. A good bet is a local car guy, but ALWAYS ask for a compression test, no matter what. A few of my friends have bought motors from JDM Engines Corp and have had strong compression, healthy engines that have lasted them 3+ seasons.


RENTING TOOLS:
I'm just gonna say this one now. Invest in a cherry picker and an engine stand. Go to Harbor freight and pick up the 2 ton cherry picker. Don't even mess with the 1 ton.
Also, invest in a cheap, but not too cheap tool set. Go to your local Sears and pick up a Crafstman "Mechanics Toolset" for a little 300 piece toolset. They have a life time warranty on most handtools and will be more than enough for the project.
That above being said, rent tools like a ball joint press and stuff you'll only need once or twice.


COMPATIBILITY:
Any engine and transmission combination is possible with enough money. As I've stated before, go for something that's somewhat reliable, won't break the bank, and has the potential to make power. But a general rule of thumb is this: Power, Reliability, Cheap. Now pick two of those. You generally won't have a powerful and reliable engine for cheap. And you won't have a cheap powerful engine that's reliable, etc.

Quote:
Which engine should I use? (I would like to do some drifting)
Any engine is good for drifting, really.


Quote:
KA24de, Ka24det (when it has no turbo (ka24de), does that mean I cannot put in a turbo in the future? like there's nowhere to put the turbo>)
Again, there was never a production engine for a turbocharged KA, it's all aftermarket. This engine is one of my personal favorites when turbocharged. Just because it wasn't turbo from the factory doesn't mean you can't put a turbo manifold and turbo on it to make it into one.

Quote:
Rb25de, Rb25det (gtr r32 engine)
Quote:
rb26dett? (twin turbo r34 engine)
Also, again, The RB25 was found present in R32/33/34 Skylines and the RB26DETT was found in all R32/33/34 Skyline GTR's. RB's have a great sound and great power potential. With these engines I wouldn't even bother with a NA version. A complete RB25DET swap (Engine, harness, tranny, ecu, etc) can be had for $2-3k USD.
The RB26DETT does have some more selling points that I just don't think are worth it for the price you pay. 0.1L more displacement, stronger rods, pistons, oil squirters (I think? Not too sure on that one.), a better flowing head, solid lifters, etc. But good luck finding one for cheap that isn't blown up.

Quote:
Sr20det engine (ive talked to some people online, saying that the sr20det has less torque than the Ka engine)
The SR20 is a great engine, it's just not my cup of tea. It seems to be the go to fan boy swap. They still have the potential to make great power and out of the box are a great upgrade from a stock KA24. But if you turbocharge the KA24 I fell you'll have a better. stronger engine over the SR20 for just around the same price.
And yes, the KA does make more torque than the SR. It's science, longer stroke = more torque. Shorter stroke = more RPM
(Ain't no replacement for displacement, AMIRITE?)

Quote:
Are these engines good for drifting? I know the Ka certainly is. What are your thoughts?
Yes, these are all great for drifting. But let's not forget to looking into other makes of engines such as Toyota (JZ, UZ, 3SGE) or even a V8 like a 5.0, old ass Chevy 350 or an LS.


AFTERMARKET PARTS:
Quote:
AFTERMARKET PARTS
The car already comes with a
5 speed isis shifter
Pbm fully adjustable coil overs
Adjustable toe and camber rods
NRG quick release with wheel
S15 driver seat s14 passenger
& a 2 way lsd
What other parts do I need for the engine and shell?
For example: Cooling? Turbo?
Does this car have a transmission or is that missing along with the engine?
How many of these said parts are installed and what condition are they in?
Is that LSD really a 2 way? Or is it just a welded diff or a VLSD or even just a plain old open diff. Pop that sucker open and post some pics.
And what brand is that LSD?
These are some questions you need to ask yourself.

Quote:
What other parts do I need for the engine and shell?
For example: Cooling? Turbo?
Well. Let's pretend you go with a KA-T build. And let's pretend your goal HP is around 250, which is still respectable and a good amount to learn to drift on. I'd say you'd want to add a Z32 MAF, stock SR20 injectors, a T28 turbo, a front mount intercooler setup, a better radiator system, FANS, and an ECU tune/flash.
IF you're going to be using this car as a daily drive and a weekend warrior at the track (Remember kiddies, we don't endorse street drifting ) then I'd invest in some comfy ass "racing" seats. And don't just remove your stock seat belts, some days you won't want to strap yourself into that big and bulky harness, Invest in a Canadian manual seat belt system over that annoying USDM automatic one...

Whew, that was a long post, especially for my first one lmfao. If I can think of any other information I'll go ahead and to that.

PS: If you do decide to go with a KA+T build here's something you should read very thouroghly. It's the "Turbo KA 'Bible'" It's here on the 240sxforums but since my post count is only 1 I can't link you to it. Just google it and it sohuld be the first thing to come up.


PPS: Remember, if you can't drift with 100 HP, 1000 HP isn't going to do you any good.


EDIT: Went more into detail and prettied up my post.

Last edited by Nubs; 04-08-2017 at 06:10 AM. Reason: Added more detail and information, also make cosmetic changes
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-08-2017, 06:17 AM
 
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Oh, too lazy to get back on my PC and edit my post but more on storage issues. Once your family has moved look into getting an enclosed type of shed., Sure, a tent/canopy will work fine but sometimes it's nicer to have a enclosed workspace to keep the weather out of your business.
Step 1: car cover/tent thing.
Step 2: build walls (basically)
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-08-2017, 12:43 PM
 
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I couldn't have said that any better


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post #5 of 14 Old 04-08-2017, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Talking

I cannot thank you enough for this information. Wow, THANK YOU! I was real worried about these things because Ive been doing research but getting nowhere.

More questions! yay!
For storage (again)
Idea: I could see if one of my friends could store it for a little bit. (However, I could look into renting a garage at my appartments for a little while, I will ask what the availability is at my office)
For the tent idea, it seems pretty good!

And for this question:
Quote:
Does this car have a transmission or is that missing along with the engine?
How many of these said parts are installed and what condition are they in?
Is that LSD really a 2 way? Or is it just a welded diff or a VLSD or even just a plain old open diff. Pop that sucker open and post some pics.
And what brand is that LSD?
These are some questions you need to ask yourself.
For this question, there is only 1 picture, and I have yet to visit the car. I have no clue whether it has a transmission or not. (I think i'm going to ask my parents to see it today, if I can convince them)
Another thing is, from the 1 picture. It seems to be in great condition. There is no visible rust or damage

And for the engine mount. Which kit is good for a RB25det?
I think I want to do the GTR engine.
Ive seen some offers on ebay going for at the most 3k-ish
I'm not sure elsewhere.

BUDGET
My budget i'm guessing is about 6k (coming from my bank account). That would be probably the most i'd be willing to spend on this project. But I would like to stay under my budget as much as possible.
Engine mount i'm guessing would be about 100$ (seen some online going for 300-400$ sheesh)
Transmission? Which trans do I use?

The whole shell costs 250$

Quote:
A complete RB25DET swap (Engine, harness, tranny, ecu, etc) can be had for $2-3k USD.
That makes me really happy to hear that, I don't to make this project a waste of time and money. So far what i'm hearing is good news.

When putting in a rb25det engine I need:
engine harness/mount? Which brand or company is good?
transmission? (from which car?)
ecu? (from which car?)
etc...
Would a 2 way lsd be good for drifting? OR do I need to weld the lsd? (please keep in mind, im only 16. So I don't know how to weld)

So that's that.
Thanks so much for making a HUGE post and answering my questions.

Last edited by TNTTank; 04-08-2017 at 02:34 PM. Reason: EDIT: Also I'm going to assume that the shell has no transmission
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-08-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Change of plans, my parents just shot down my idea so hard. I don't think I can do this at all.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-09-2017, 03:59 PM
 
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Storage: do whichever is better. If it's a private garage from your apartments and it's not a bad price, go for it.

Post the picture of the car here and ask for more. Ask how much rust is on the car and what the condition of the frame rails are.

Engine mount:
I have no personal experience but there's tons of kits out there and they're all relatively the same. You could ask a local shop to quote you on how much it would cost to fab some up for you.
Kinda stay away from eBay unless it's a reputable company. Otherwise it's a 50/50 shot on whether or not your engine is trashed.

Budget: 6K is a great budget.

Trans: if you buy a swap with the RB25 tranny, keep it. If it doesn't have it look for a turbo Z32 5 speed tranny.

If the whole shell cost $250 JUMP ON IT.
Make sure the title is in his name and is in your state (can be a hassle transferring titles from State to state.

Engine harness: try and find an OEM one.
Transmission: companies make adapter kits for all sorts of transmissions and usually tell you what clutch/flywheel combination to use.
ECU: RB25s can use a bunch of different ECUs. They can use z32 ones and a few others, just do a Google search for RB25 ECU options
2 way: a 2 way diff is great for drifting. They just require a special fluid and a lot of maintenance than a welded diff. If possible buy an open diff from someone local and see if it isn't already welded. If not, take it to a welding shop and have them do it for cheap.

Parents shutting down your plans?
Screw them and buy it anyways. You're 16 and you're supposed to rebel. Once the car is titled in your name, it's yours. Don't let your parents crush your dreams. Tell them spending 6k on a build is better than spending 6k on drugs/alcohol and the chances of you knocking someone up are significantly less because you're in the garage all night instead of at the rager down the block.

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post #8 of 14 Old 04-10-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey I really appreciate the reply, but:
Quote:
Parents shutting down your plans?
Screw them and buy it anyways. You're 16 and you're supposed to rebel.
This? Not a good idea in my house.
I would definitely lose some trust with my parents, and trust is pretty scarce.
Losing trust would make my life a little harder, for example: doing things by myself, going to events by myself, seeing friends, purchasing my own things, etc...
so please don't decide on how I should treat my parents.

Ive done some stupid stuff in the past and my mom restricts my purchases a lot because of that. I can buy coffee and small things, but personal items? Like games or computer hardware? Pretty hard to convince. I always have to ask permission.
This is because when I get involved with a project or hobby, I have extreme interest for about a week, then drop it. So it's very very very hard to convince my parents about a hobby they've never heard of. And if there's a price tag on it, then they will reeeeaaally oppose the idea. Especially if I tell them the price of roughly 6k. (It might be lower because I got nervous, and made the price tag higher) So they fear that I might just drop this project.

Ive done this before with art, I wanted to be a concept artist for a while, and my mom bought some really nice markers as a gift. But then I lost interest and gave up on being a concept artist.
For several reasons:
1. If I want to do this as a job, I need a really active imagination.
2. Going to a art school would teach me a lot, but it costs a lot. My parents have also seen some friends/workmates who did go to art school and eventually they never did art as their job.
3. I became lazy :/
The same exact thing happened with music
Got a device $$ to do music, then gave up.

But I feel like if I invest this much of my money on this project, I would have no other choice but to finish it as fast as I can.
Even if the car doesn't start up the first time. I would still keep researching and working on it in order for it to work.

They also don't like this idea because we used to know 2 car guys who did almost the same thing, they got a car stripped it and sold it.
1 went off realized that there are other things in life, even got married. The other went off and made his hobby a HUGE thing, HUGE. He bought a old z from his dad and is restoring it, basically stripping it to the metal and making it from the ground up! And there are a lot of parts to replace that cost big $. And right now he isn't happy.
So my parents are also concerned about that aspect.
They are also concerned about me getting hurt. I know i'm super careful about building things (when building my computer, I researched the heck out of it) I was shaking when I built my computer lol. But they also know i'm clumsy (I dropped a screwdriver right on the motherboard when building it) haha.
So

For me I just want to make a car, that's it. That's ALL. No more building cars after that or modding cars like crazy. I may even sell the car.

I respect my parents decisions and I am currently trying to list why I want a car.
For example: This project would educate me more on cars.
But I don't need a car. I just don't, there's no reason to get one from a economical aspect. But I really want a car. Because I think it's cool, and overall I think it would be a fun project.

Ive been raised fairly good, and they know I don't want to ever do drugs, alcohol, etc. And I do not want that for myself either.

Anyways enough about that, I ramble a lot because I overthink things. I think I took over an hour to write just this part ^. Sheesh, why. I can probably use this post to show my thinking on the matter with my parents.

Ill attach the image below of the car (if I can... :/ The website wont let me link images or anything because i'm a new user). Thanks a bunch for the additional information,
I haven't given up quite yet and i'm still researching on inexpensive options for my parents.
I want to come to a understanding with my parents instead of a quarrel.

So thanks a bunch for looking this kind of stuff up!
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-10-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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For the swap, I could also hire a local mechanic store to do it for me, but I would lose some educational value from that, But it would be safer. The website won't let me attach an image

Also from the aspect of drifting: I might not even do that. Just because of my parents
But ive found a local raceway that does have some drift events. They are safe. The rules protect the driver
I should build the car first before I research this kind of stuff.
I think too far ahead, it's a bad habit of mine.

Here are the rules of the place:

2017 Open Drift Rules Page 1
2017
2017 Evergreen Drift Open Drift Rules
(Updated 1/30/2017)
Rule Book Disclaimer
The rules and regulations are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing events and to establish minimum
acceptable requirements for such events. These rules shall govern all events, and by participating in these events. All
participants are deemed to be in compliance with these rules and regulations. All rules are subject to the interpretation of
the track officials. Any equipment that the officials consider exotic or not in the interest, or intent of the rules will be
considered not legal for competition. Originally published for the 2015 racing season, the intention is use these rules as
the basis for technical specifications for five years. However minor adjustments may be required in the interest of fairness,
safety and competition.
NO EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM PUBLICATIONS OF OR
COMPLIANCE WITH THESE RULES AND/OR REGULATIONS.
These rules are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a
participant spectator official or others. The Race Director shall be empowered to permit minor deviations from any of the
specifications or impose further restrictions that, in his opinion, do not alter the minimum acceptable requirements.
NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM SUCH ALTERATIONS
OF SPECIFICATIONS.
Interpretation of, or deviation from these rules is left to the discretion of the Officials. Their decision is final. It's the
responsibility of the driver to ensure their car confirms to all rules and regulations at all times.
1) Body Work
a) Body Panels such as bumper covers, side skirts, fender flares etc. Must be attached in a way that keeps them
solidly mounted to the vehicle during normal operation.
b) Door, Quarter and Rear window glass must be OEM or clear LEXAN
i) Must be securely mounted in place
2017 Open Drift Rules Page 2
c) Windshields are required and must not have any damage that impairs vision or cracks covering more than 50% of
the windshield in any direction.
i) Windshields must be OEM glass or Lexan/polycarbonate replacement
ii) Lexan/polycarbonate windshields must be a minimum thickness of .125-inch
iii) Lexan/polycarbonate windshields must be securely mounted and have a vertical brace .750-inch wide x
.0625-inch aluminum which is securely mounted down the center of the opening on inside the vehicle.
d) Interior
i) The interior of the vehicle must be clean.
ii) All non-essential and/or loose items must be removed.
iii) Speakers, amplifiers etc. must be securely mounted or removed
iv) Throttle, Brake and clutch pedals must operate properly with no binding
2) Roll Cage
a) A conforming roll cage is required to participate in Tandem runs on any 3/8 course.
b) Cars without cages are allowed to tandem on courses designated by the Director of the (edit by TNTTank: name of place was here, want to remain anonymous for safety) Drift as infield
courses.
c) Convertibles
i) All convertible cars must have a minimum of a 4 point roll bar.
ii) The bar must be higher than the driver’s helmet when normally seated.
iii) The main hoop must not be more than 6” behind the driver.
d) Basic Construction Standards
i) Refer to the (edit by TNTTank: name of place was here, want to remain anonymous for safety) Pro Am or Grassroot’s rules for acceptable cage construction
3) Engine, Transmission, Fuel, Chassis, Steering and Mechanical.
a) Fluids
i) All fluid systems must be free of leaks
b) Exhaust
i) Exhaust modifications are free except
(1) Must have a minimum of one muffler
(2) Turbo wastegate pipes may exit anywhere outside of the bodywork
(3) Max noise level of 92db at 75 feet will be enforced
c) Cooling System
i) Coolant allowed. Water preferred.
d) Brake System
i) The primary braking system must operate all 4 wheels
ii) Secondary brake systems are allowed
e) Wheels, Tires and Suspension
i) Wheel bearings, shocks, steering and suspension must all be in good operating condition with no excess play.
ii) No broken or missing lug studs or nuts are allowed
iii) No Damaged wheels that pose a safety hazard
f) Electrical System
i) A master electrical switch is highly recommended.
ii) Battery
(1) Must be securely mounted. Subject to Tech approval.
2017 Open Drift Rules Page 3
(2) Batteries moved from the factory location must be enclosed in an approved battery box
(3) Positive battery terminal must be completely covered with an insulating material
g) Fuel System
i) Metal fuel filters are required
ii) No fuel lines may run through the driver’s compartment
iii) A firewall must separate all fuel tanks and/or fuel system components from the driver’s compartment
iv) Two (2) throttle return springs are required on all carbureted engines.
4) Occupant Safety Equipment
a) Helmets must be worn during all on track sessions and must meet the following criteria
i) DOT rated open or full face style helmets are allowed. SNELL SA rated helmets are highly recommended.
(1) Must be free of any noticeable damage.
(2) Must cover temples and ears.
(3) Must not show signs of degrading from age.
(4) (edit by TNTTank: name of place was here, want to remain anonymous for safety) Drift Tech Officials decisions are final. If they are not comfortable with your helmet you will
not be allowed to use it.
ii) Clothing Requirements
(1) Any occupant must wear full length pants and a short-sleeved shirt at minimum. SFI fire rated driving suit
is highly recommended
b) Seats
i) All seats must be securely mounted at all 4 points of contact.
c) Seat Belts
i) Seatbelts must be free from any cuts, tears or conditions that would effect their ability to protect you in the
case of an accident.
ii) After market harness are recommended to be DOT, SFI or FIA certified.
iii) All seat belt systems are to be mounted according to the manufacturer’s instructions or to the SFI Guide to
Seat Belt Mounting.
General Information
All participants are expected to take pride in being part of our entertainment. Racing entertainment is what we sell
to the public and we will not tolerate anyone or anything that detracts from the show. Cars in the opinion of the
Officials that lack in appearance or are deemed unsafe will not be allowed to compete until acceptable. All car
construction rules will be decided by (edit by TNTTank: name of place was here, want to remain anonymous for safety) Drift tech inspectors. Their decisions are final.


Here is the minor's rules:
Pit Access for Minor:
16 is the minimum age for pit access and all minors must have a parent/guardian sign a one time waiver valid for the duration of the season.
Grandstand access is all ages and is the only safe place for young children.
See the Minor Waiver Information Page for full details and instructions.

MINOR WAIVERS
16 is the minimum age for pit access and all minors must have a parent/guardian sign a 1 time waiver for the season.

Grandstand access is all ages. We apologize for the inconvenience but the lawyers and insurance company are very particular about how the minor waiver form is filled out. We are unable to electronically transmit the form at this time.

There are 3 ways to complete the minor waiver form.

Prior to the event
The Parent / Guardian can visit the Speedway Office in person during office hours and sign the waiver.
Contact the Speedway Office to request a waiver form be mailed to you. The original color form signing must be witnessed and notarized by a licensed notary (usually your bank will do this for free). Finally, mail the form back to the Speedway office and make sure to specify it is for drifting events.
On the day of the event
The Parent / Guardian can accompany the minor and sign the form at the back gate during registration.
We recommend that parents attend at least one event with their minor to have a chance to observe how everything works.

Please see the Contact page for the Speedway Office contact information.


SO thats that, all safety issues on the track. Don't need to be concerned about this now because first of all, I need to build the car first lol.

Last edited by TNTTank; 04-10-2017 at 10:08 PM. Reason: more information
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-11-2017, 02:59 PM
 
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My advice would be start simple. Get your hands on a running mostly stock 240sx. Plenty of things will go wrong with it to keep you busy. A car with light mods will give you something reasonably dependable that you can explore various motorsports with. You will gain valuable knowledge when the car breaks down, but if you don't buy a total heap, it will be up and running most of the time and you can try things such as drifting, time attack, autocross, and rallycross.

I recommend this approach because it is the one I took and I'm very happy with it. I bought a mostly stock 240 when I was 19 or 20 and it has been very fun these last 4 years. I have friends with faster cars with better engines (s13 w/rb26dett) but I have been able to have more fun I believe because while their cars are constantly broken down, I'm off at the track racing my slow but reliable car. It's kind of like a 'tortoise or the hare' type of scenario.

My only regret is that I waited until 19 to get my 240sx instead of getting it when I was 16 or 17. I lost the argument with my parents as well and as a result I lost 3 good years of owning a s13, years when it isn't terribly important to own a reliable car.

Anyway this is just my experience and you are welcome to do whatever you think is best, but definitely try to get your hands on a fun car as soon as you can because it is much harder for parents to take something like that away once you have it.

Good Luck!

(For my car's mods seem my signature below)

'89 Nissan 240sx Hatch: KA24DE Swap, 2.25" Exhaust, Short Shifter, Eibach Sportline Springs, SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch and Pressure Plate, LED Cluster Lights, PRIME Wheels, EBC Pads w/Dimpled + Slotted Rotors, '98 Trans.

'94 Jeep Cherokee: 2-3.25" Raked Lift, 31" Tires, HID Headlights
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-15-2017, 02:10 PM
 
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I see your point, and hey! Evergreen is the shit. If you do happen to buy the car and just lose interest I've got a friend in Redmond who would buy the car from you for me and hold it til I could pick it up. Keep us all updated on the whole scenario and just beg and plead.
Also, you say "No more modding/building"? If you get hooked on it now, you're going to want to mod the crap out if it. You'll want more power so you'll slap a bigger turbo on. Eventually you'll get used to that and add more power through a lot of different mods, even a whole engine build. You'll see a lot of other cars at the track with a lotnl better steering angle and you'll think to yourself, "I need that", and you'll end up modding it there too. And if you crash it you can either give up and sell it. Or make a tube front/rear if it's saveable.
Anyways, best of luck and let us know how it all goes.

Sent from my Alcatel_6055U using Tapatalk
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-18-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for replying. The 240sx shell is on Seattle craigslist. If you want to get it. I'm sort of getting a car that isn't a drift car. For like 400$. It's a Suzuki sidekick. This will be my first car. I've wanted to do this as project but looking at my circumstances, I can't really. Right in the middle of moving. And my parents are SUPER not on board now. So I found a friend who is trying to get rid of his car and I agreed. I'm getting it today actually. Pretty excited. It's not a drift car though it is automatic and AWD or 4WD? :/ but will probably make my parents worry a lot less. But if you want to do the project, go for it.

I did see a green 240sx out in downtown Seattle. Pretty sweet. Wonder if it was someone from the forums. Most likely not.
If I'm gonna get a car, I don't want two. So this is wrapping up my research so far. Can't do much and it's really out of my control.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6054365436.html Here is the link to the car. It's in maple valley.


Also, I have been talked to by other friends on making a car from the ground up. They too have experience on building cars. But the topic that comes up MOST is "Get a car with an engine that runs"

This happened to me like 4 times now. And I feel like its becoming more clear that this project is for more experienced modders.

Quote:
My advice would be start simple. Get your hands on a running mostly stock 240sx. Plenty of things will go wrong with it to keep you busy. A car with light mods will give you something reasonably dependable that you can explore various motorsports with. You will gain valuable knowledge when the car breaks down, but if you don't buy a total heap, it will be up and running most of the time and you can try things such as drifting, time attack, autocross, and rallycross.
Even this guy knows whats up.
I know you want the best for me on this project, but seeing my options. This path would probably cost me alot financially. And seeing a nice car for 400$ I can't resist.
So i'm still happy either way.
Thank you though for supporting me alot through the research of this project.

I still really want the shell for future use (Like storing it). But right now I just can't. All the doors are not open and I don't want to dive into a project that I can't finish just because of money issues. My parents really don't want to support me on this project. And they made their final decision.

So If someone wants a good 240sx shell. Go for it. I would really like to see the finished result.

And yay! I can post links in my posts now.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-18-2017, 02:53 PM
 
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Cool man best of luck! The sidekick can make a pretty cool budget offroader if you decide to go that route.

'89 Nissan 240sx Hatch: KA24DE Swap, 2.25" Exhaust, Short Shifter, Eibach Sportline Springs, SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch and Pressure Plate, LED Cluster Lights, PRIME Wheels, EBC Pads w/Dimpled + Slotted Rotors, '98 Trans.

'94 Jeep Cherokee: 2-3.25" Raked Lift, 31" Tires, HID Headlights
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Thanks for your support!
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