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#1 Old 07-21-2010, 06:01 PM
 
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Exclamation Start Up Problem

Hey i first want to introduce myself
My name is brandon and I bought my first all stock 240sx on May 23 2010 (it was converted from auto to manual and it has 112 k miles on original ka)
Ive just had this 240 for about 2 months and have spent over 1k in repairs
geez its been hard to get it to run good but some other problems pops up as something gets fixed
Well now im stuck at a point where it runs its just the start up that is messing up
Just last week i took it into a shop because it was shake like crazy and turns out 2 injectors were bad
so once they were replaced it stopped shaking but the day right after that i take like a 2 mile drive and
its 1 line from over heating and i was like . so i stopped let it cool down for like an hour and drove back home which was 2 miles away and it was at the same point
So i let it cool down once again and checked the radiator and surely enough it was low on coolant so i put some coolant with water in and i put some into the overflow tank also which was empty
So the day after that i was getting ready to go to work and for some strange reason it didn't want to start after i turned the key
It would rev up to 1500 rpm like usual and then it would die
So the day after that i went outside to try to turn it on and it did the same rev up to 1,500 rpm and die
I tried it again and it did the same
Asked my dad and he said wait a little and go outside and try it again but step on the throttle a little to help it breath
So i did that and on my second time doing it it turned on
So i had ordered spark plugs wires and a distributor rotor and put them in myself and I gapped the plugs to .044 and made sure the wires were in the right order and the same with the distributor rotor
So i tried turning it on after and it wouldn't want to start on its own just rev up to 1,500 and die
so i tried using the throttle as it was starting and it was kind of a harsh start but it turned on and i drove it around and not problem
I can't turn it on unless i add some throttle to it and its kinda pissing me off because i need this car to be a reliable daily driver/ some fun on the weekends car
I think it might have a dirty throttle body flange thing the one that opens when you rev it sorry i forgot the name right now but can you help me out
And i did some research and it could be either the MAF thats bad or it might have carb built up well thats what ive read and in 2 days or so im going to be off and going to try to get it to start on its own
So the question is what could be making my 240 not want to start up by itself?
thanks in advance
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#2 Old 07-21-2010, 06:32 PM
 
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hey guys, I need help bad

A week ago I added an exhaust, changed spark plugs to my 240sx. Two days ago all of a sudden it stopped running. I cleaned carburator, checked spark plug. everything good. It wants to start but it dosent. I also changed coil pac but didnt help?
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#3 Old 07-21-2010, 06:51 PM
 
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An instant theadjacking wow! OP sounds like your coolant temp sensor is bad...I would start there first, it's a cheap part and will cause flooding on startup. When you start the car with gas pedal all the way down it cuts fuel that's why it starts when you do that. Poster #2 if you think your 240 has a carburetor I can't help you
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#4 Old 07-22-2010, 04:07 AM
 
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Hey Black i don't think that the coolant temp sensor is bad because i've driven it around and today i got it to turn on using the throttle a little and i drove it for like 15 mins and i was driving hard like reving up to like 4 k rpm
and it was at a normal temperature around the middle actually a little lower and i drove like a good 3 miles like that haha i know car abuse but i just wanted to test it
So im really thinking that it might have carb built up inside so im going to look into a sea foam treatment
Does anyone know it this would be a good idea?
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#5 Old 07-22-2010, 05:46 PM
 
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The temp sensor for your gauge and the one your ecu uses for fuel trim are two separate sensors. Does it start right up after a hot soak?
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#6 Old 07-22-2010, 06:20 PM
 
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If i warm it up then turn it off then try to restart it turns on like a normal car but its only on cold starts that it has a problem starting up
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#7 Old 07-22-2010, 07:40 PM
 
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Pull the plugs and let it sit and get cold. When you try to start it again do it with the plugs out and see if fuel or coolant is dripping down into the cylinders. If you are bleeding fuel into a cylinder(injector) or coolant(head gasket) it could cause that symptom.
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#8 Old 07-23-2010, 04:19 AM
 
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Alright Black im going to give that a try and hopefully its an injector and not the gasket
and i get my diff welded maybe tomorrow
Does $150 sound like a good price if i take the pumpkin to a shop and have them weld and put everything back together into the pumpkin?
I've thought long and hard about it but 900 for an lsd is not what im looking to spend maybe in the near future but not right now.
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#9 Old 07-23-2010, 07:23 AM
 
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If they're pulling it out and reinstalling...
Average welding diff is around $50, and labor is 75/hr. Not bad at all!

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#10 Old 07-24-2010, 04:12 PM
 
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Alright thanks for the info on the welding of my diff haha
And yesterday i took my car into the shop and the mechanic told me that the iacv is bad and may either need to be replaced or cleaned out
so now i need to know what would be a better idea buy a new one or clean this one out but he recommended that i get a new one
and today when i turned my 240 on it started up a little easier because the mechanic did something i dont know what exactly but he turned something with a flat head and said he adjusted the iacv
so when i got it to turn on i let it warm up like 2 mins or so and i started to rev higher and higher i was goin insane with the throttle haha
and it started to make a new noise
and it was a knocking sound around the valve cover so i just freaked this is bad really bad i don't want to be rebuilding this dam engine thats giving me so much shit and all i want is a reliable daily driver and i cant even get that
so i think next time i get to the pump im going to go with 91 the premium shit to see if the knocking stops
hopefully its not a valve or a skipped tooth in the chain like how i bought it so yeah today sucks ass and i need to drive to work today so hopefully i wont be stuck in the middle of the road AGAIN!!
any idea on what i should do guys?
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#11 Old 07-24-2010, 04:51 PM
 
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When it skipped a tooth did you replace the chain/tensioner? One of them could be worn out and that is bad in our engines.

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#12 Old 07-24-2010, 08:00 PM
 
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If IACV is bad then what happens when you unplug it? Is this the orignial engine? Is noise still there and does it change with rpm?
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#13 Old 07-25-2010, 06:44 AM
 
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okay the mechanic said that he replaced the chain and tensioner and guides so i took his word for it because i am only 17 and dont want to completely f up my first 240sx so i had him do it and im pretty sure he did
and idk how to get to the iacv exactly because i cant find my flash light so i need to get another one and i never really have time to mess around with the engine and i dont want to pull something thinking its something else and messing something up so i keep to the basics
im not sure if its the original engine but im pretty sure it was an auto to manual conversion because the clutch line that crosses over the firewall doesn't seem like it was factory installed so its just a guess and the guy that sold it to me is in florida im in nevada so no way ima see him and ask him
but i drove it to work today and thought about practicing some drifting at around 2 im the morning but i didn't because it started to idle around 700-800 and go up to 900 then down to 700 and it wouldn't stay steady so i didn't get to practice even though i know the engine is not in good shape i might as well have fun while it runs haha
right?
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#14 Old 07-27-2010, 04:57 PM
 
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today i made a discovery when i was looking under my hood
my engine was making a ticking noise and was shaking at idle (around 600-800 rpm) so i started looking around to see what exactly it could be
and the knocking noise is still there but it is very faint and towards the middle of the engine
so i unplugged one injector at a time to see if one would be bad and it idled even lower and wouldn't stop shaking but i couldn't get to the 3rd injector cuz my engine was hot so my strut bar was hot and i didn't want to rest my hand on it as i unplugged the wire to the injector
so i didn't really check cylinder number 3 for a faulty injector but im pretty sure its not that one because of the following
as i continued my search i realized that if i put my finger on the injector itself i noticed that the one leading to cyilnder number 2 made the stronger clicking noise
so my question is
do i have a bad injector or would a valve be knocking or is something with the fuel rail wrong or could it be something wrong with my cars cylinder head?
and im really comtemplating the idea of just rebuilding the engine and hopefully have a more reliable dd
any advice people?
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#15 Old 07-27-2010, 06:04 PM
 
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SORRY TO SAY, but i think you should just get a new engine just because when these engines start out with a problem like that, you will constantly be trying to fix it but really nothing helps and if it does a new problem will start. my advice is find a motor for it that runs perfect, and if you don't, don't even bother. the thing is with these engines (ka)'s they are very unforgivable, when you don't keep up on maintanance tons of stuff will go rong, but you could always get it machined and rebuilt, but that will cost you allot. when you took out the injectors, was there oil on them? and if not was there a sooty black residue?

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#16 Old 07-27-2010, 07:51 PM
 
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Injectors are supposed to click, that means they are working. So the car starts up now?? A cylinder misfire can be caused by a few things, the least likely being a sticking injector.
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#17 Old 07-30-2010, 02:01 AM
 
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Jordan yeah i think i might be looking into getting a different ka that runs good but im starting to trust this engine a little more because it isn't doing anything else wrong just the start up is a little bad but other than that i like my ka and i love it once i get to 3k rpms it is just so wonderful and feels hella strong (i never really get that much higher maybe 4k the most but man can this ka pull haha)
and Black i know that the injectors are supposed to click its like this if i put my finger tip on the cylinder number 1 injector it clicks like normal but once i put it on the number 2 injector it clicks harder and makes a louder noise not like normal
so im going to take my car into my mechanics shop and im going to ask him to double check the injectors and to replace the iacv since its bad or whatever and maybe once this happens i will hopefully have a good working ka
and im not really trippin about the injector thing as long as i don't have to buy new ones its all good
and i was wondering since i got a cone filter do i still need the little black box that had a tube going to the intake box and if im not mistaken its the iac right?
i also want to know if you guys know of any good step by step write up of a j30 lsd conversion
my friend wants to get this done
im still undecided about my diff
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#18 Old 07-30-2010, 05:56 PM
 
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www.240sxtech.com for j30 swap and everything else in the 240 world
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#19 Old 08-02-2010, 05:22 AM
 
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okay thanks for all the help everyone
and tomorrow im going to call my mechanic and im going to ask him how much he would charge for the replacement of the iacv and hopefully its not over 250 cuz i don't got a shizzload of money to give away anyways
and im still looking for a write up of how to remove the iacv well more like how to get everything off and back on maybe i might just do it myself ???
and i found out where the iacv is also its between the intake mani and the firewall right
well i saw a pic of it attached to the intake mani on a box so it sounds right
man oh man
and im getting a kaaz 2.0 helical lsd
its gonna be like 950 in total
and im definitely going to install that myself just need a torque wrench maybe a craftsman will do
and once again thanks everyone once again for helping me out in some way
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#20 Old 12-02-2010, 12:47 AM
 
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I think it has to do something with your Map sensor or something like that. check the wires that connect to the sensor on your intake. sometimes it rips where the plug starts because of the shake of the car. if the air to gas ratio isnt right your car wont stay on. i think thats why you have to rev it for more air. i was in the same situation i believe. i have an after market intake with a map sensor that connects to a plug. and one of the wires on the plug was ripped at the end. but when i connected it my car started and stayed on and when i unconnected the ripped wire(not the whole plug) it started idling high and low until it shut off. if you unplug the plug that goes to your sensor your car will stay on and idle a bit high. and when you drive ou cant go over 3000 rpm. i hope this helps a bit. im not 100% if you have the same problem as did.
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