^ Removed the sound deadner
^ Found a lot more rust than i was expecting...repaired the major spots
^Got my ES hyper-flex kit in but, there was no grease included so they are shipping that.....may not get here in time to do it this weekend.
I'm going to at least hit up a junkyard this weekend and just see what they have. I'm not 100% its going to be a 302 swap.....just depends on what i can find. If i find a Gen 3 SBC then i will defintally snatch it up. I dont think i'll find 99' and newer vehicles in there with the power train still intact.
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KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
sohc ka ecu's are easy to chip and there is plenty of different programs you can use to tune them with.
hybridka.com is where i learned everything i needed to tune stock nissan ecu's
I searched my local craigslist and didnt' find many engines for sale in my price range.....will defintally be hunting the local junkyard this weekend / next week. Are any of the pre Gen III sbc engines any good? All i ever hear is get a Gen III sbc.
I got the interior back together so now i can start removing suspension parts so i can install the new bushings.
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KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
I searched my local craigslist and didnt' find many engines for sale in my price range.....will defintally be hunting the local junkyard this weekend / next week. Are any of the pre Gen III sbc engines any good? All i ever hear is get a Gen III sbc.
I got the interior back together so now i can start removing suspension parts so i can install the new bushings.
As for the SBC, they are all good. Your budget will determine which one you should get. I'm guessing your budget is pretty low since you can't find a Gen III/IV in your price range.
Good luck with those bushings, they are a pain in the ass!
At my local junk yard its 200$ for any v8....so i'm going to try to find the best in the yard. What vehicles should i be looking for? There are no 99' and new vehicles there......early and mid 90's for the most part. They have tons of 302 sbf engines that they is why it was one of my first choices.
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KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
At my local junk yard its 200$ for any v8....so i'm going to try to find the best in the yard. What vehicles should i be looking for? There are no 99' and new vehicles there......early and mid 90's for the most part. They have tons of 302 sbf engines that they is why it was one of my first choices.
If I was you I'd look for a TPI, look for it in Gen 3 F-Bodies and C-4 Corvettes. BTW, there is a reason for the over abundance of 302 SBFs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt
You can get some LSx based SBC's in 97 and 98.
I would stay away from the LT1... Not worth it.
LT1s are alright, Optispark is a major pain in the ass. The only reason that I would swap one into a Silvia would be the fact that the distributer is in the front and not the back.
If I was you I'd look for a TPI, look for it in Gen 3 F-Bodies and C-4 Corvettes. BTW, there is a reason for the over abundance of 302 SBFs.
There really is. It takes far more work than what they are really worth.
LT1s are alright, Optispark is a major pain in the ass. The only reason that I would swap one into a Silvia would be the fact that the distributer is in the front and not the back.
With the Gen III's you wouldn't have to worry about the distributor, :P
They are an old and out dated design. A rebuilt CA18 would be better than an LT1 IMO.
Totally not worth the hassle of buying and swapping in. If someone gave you EVERYTHING need for the swap in an S-Chassis. It might be worth it then.
With the Gen III's you wouldn't have to worry about the distributor, :P
They are an old and out dated design. A rebuilt CA18 would be better than an LT1 IMO.
Totally not worth the hassle of buying and swapping in. If someone gave you EVERYTHING need for the swap in an S-Chassis. It might be worth it then.
Nelson8708 is looking for pre-Gen III engines.
Stock LT1 > Stock CA18
Rebuilt LT1 > Rebuilt CA18
Modified LT1 > Modified CA18 (as long as the mods are similar)
Especially in a S car. Now, if you would have said RB or maybe even SR I would probably agree with you.
^I dunno.. I'd rather swap in a CA18 over an LT1 any day.
Although, I'd rather not swap in either of them in the first place though.
I don't know what the LT1 weighs. But, I bet they wouldn't be much different from a cast iron Gen III.
Which brings me to my next thought. Lt1's make less power then most Gen III's. So why go through the hassle if it's weight is similar and makes less power?
Some of the Gen III 4.8's are rated at the same output levels as the LT1's.
Maybe it's just me and my deep distaste for LT1's... I think they are crap when you compare what you could have in your car for the same amount of time, effort, and money.
CA18 swap would be easier but would yield less power than the LT1. I suppose it depends on what someone would rather have, an easier swap or more power. The F/Y-Body LT1's weight is very comparable to the LR4, LM7 and LQ4 (aluminum headed version). Once again, the only reason I'm telling the OP to look into the LT1 is he wants something pre-Gen III. I think back in 1992 the LT1 was pretty good but compared to the GenIII/IVs of today they don't even compare.
its all about the $$$$$$. Not going to find any Gen III in the junk yard. If i do i'll defintally pick it up but, i dont think i'll find any. Going tomorrow to look around and depending on if i find anything worth while i'll go back sunday and get it. I'll let you guys know if i get something sunday night.
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KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
Went to one junk yard on saturday and only found a handful of HO 302's. All except one had over 300K miles on it. The one that didn't have high mileage was in a merc cougar and while rotating it over with a rachet i noticed that one cylinder had a much more noticeable blow by (could hear it through the drain plug in the oil pan) than the others so i opted to pass on that one. No chevy's other than early 90's v8's.....going to go hunt in a different yard thursday and see what i can find there. Seems like the hardest part is finding a manual tranny to go with the engine.....there were two mustangs in the yard i went to but, both 4 bangers
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KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
My huge apologies to everyone in this thread, cause I'm just now getting in here and replying to all of the posts at one time. Haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt
Go with a .060 over piston. It'll make it a 5L. And it'll rev fucking sky high! I've seen this done with solid lifters and such, reach over 7500RPM!!!!!
They are also press fit to stock rods.
You can also C5R pistons which are press fit to stock rods. Or get C5R rods as well. but this would obviously make it a 5.7L
The biggest these iron blocks can go is a bore of 3.9'' and a 4'' crank. You can fit SLIGHTLY larger OEM pistons in there. But aftermarkets can only be up to 3.905''.
NEVER USE THE 5 SPEEDS!!!
It takes to much work and it's not worth it. the 5 speeds are shit trannies. I know t-56s are expensive but they are worth it. Save up for one.
No, I don't have any vidoes of my car and you'll see why in a second.
Now, as for the part of you not having a TIG...
When I'm 110% satisfied with my mounts. I will probably sell a few sets. maybe even have a few aluminum sets machined.
But that would mean you'd need my headers as well, lol.
Which I have not designed yet. Which is one reason why my is not running. I haven't made my headers.. Or should I say. turbo manifolds, lol. But they wno't be cheap AT ALL. All my stuff is back purgedand done properly. (Since I'm a cert TIG welder, and used to do pipe fitting)
I also need a GTO oil pan and pick up. And I need better heads.
Also, My engine isn't exactly in MY car. I picked up a spare S14 chassis to do my swap in. So I could have EVERYTHING worked out, and have it up and running. And, so I keep my DD up and running and have no downtime.
Honestly, this is the best way to do this kind of swap. Buy a spare chassis and do everything in that. It's much more stress free!
On boost, I've seen the stock 4.8L handle 700whp.
yeah... you can't beat free...
Yeah, 7500rpm is totally my style. Even if it suffers from less low-end torque it's still a v8, and it's never gonna feel like a 4 cylinder. plus, the sound of a v8 ripping through the higher revs is just a delicious sound. My KA is almost dead, so this thread has gotten me to thinking about the V8 again. Agh!! I'm way to indecisive for a car as easily swappable as the 240.
Now, you've intrigued me about the 5-speeds being difficult. Go on, please.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelson8708
I'm just throwing this out there since i haven't found a motor set....what is a good small (actual size) fuel injected v8 that you could find in a junk yard?
-Nelson
Either a 302 or an LS-based v8. honestly, though, you'd be WAAAYY better off with looking on eBay, or your local craigslist or something and getting a motor. there are a TON of late-model chevy trucks rolling around, and as it's already been said, you can pick one up for a couple hundred bucks with an automatic trans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanfreak8
The 4.8L chevy, still a pushrod engine, so no gigantic cylinder heads to mess with. Or a nice fairly potent swap, non V8 is the S/C 3800. Camaro 3.8 with a regal GS supercharger.
Hey mondo, do you know if a 700R4, TH400, or TH350 would bolt to the 4.8L?
Indeed. The LS isn't really a large motor for it's output.
The older generations of transmissions will fit on the newer Gen III and up blocks, but there is one bolt that will not line up, IIRC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt
lol, did you not read ANYTHING I posted?
I picked up an entire RUNNING 4.8L LR4. Complete minus an A/C pump and tranny.
Wiring harness.. Everything.
$100
Yes, one hundred.
As far as V8's go. no one does it quite as well as chevy. Why do you think the LSx based motors have remained almost unchanged for 60 years? No matter what V8 you get it will always be heavier than a KA or SR. Plain and simple.
The iron block SBC's weigh approx 70-80lbs more than the aluminum version. But the aluminum versions are already significantly heavier than any 4 cyl anyways.
And I hope no one still believes the "LS1 is lighter than the KA and SR", bullshit spread through out the interwebs.
While I can't confirm 100%. Almost all LSx based blocks share the same bell housing bolt patterns.
A T-56 will bolt up to the LR4. So that should give you a decent idea.
Totally agreed. The larger displacement over other v8's and the HUGE range of options as far as actual powerplants, transmissions, etc, and the RIDICULOUS aftermarket support pretty much makes this motor the best choice overall. Hands down.
All LS-based blocks have the same bellhousing bolt pattern.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxSilveradoxXx
Are you talking about Quik's setup?
All of those transmissions will bolt up to the Gen III/IV blocks.
Right on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt
With the Gen III's you wouldn't have to worry about the distributor, :P
They are an old and out dated design. A rebuilt CA18 would be better than an LT1 IMO.
Totally not worth the hassle of buying and swapping in. If someone gave you EVERYTHING need for the swap in an S-Chassis. It might be worth it then.
An excellent point. This makes this motor the winner as far as I'm concerned. I tossed around the 302 idea, as there are "good" parts to having that motor. Namely, the added firewall clearance from having the front-mounted distributor. However, the LS-based motors have all the added clearance, and are just better motors from the ground up. They've got good-flowing factory heads, and the aftermarket (and even OEM) options are pretty much limitless. Again..
Truck motor + LS1(2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,x..haha) heads + LS1 cam = great CHEEEEEAAAAAPPPP upgrade for that stock motor, and it's easy to come by, and did i mention cheap?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelson8708
its all about the $$$$$$. Not going to find any Gen III in the junk yard. If i do i'll defintally pick it up but, i dont think i'll find any. Going tomorrow to look around and depending on if i find anything worth while i'll go back sunday and get it. I'll let you guys know if i get something sunday night.
Yeah, you prolly won't find one there, at least one in any kind of good shape. Seriously, though, eBay and local ads (such as ones you'd find on craigslist.com) are a great tool. Use them, and you will prosper.
__________________
Jessica Alba Fan Club Member #1
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoFortySX
Dude, I'm just jacking you off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95ZenkiS14
If you slam your car, Please in the rear and front get adjustable upper control arms.
One of my buddies has a HO out of a cougar so i'm looking at picking it up with in the next few weeks once i get my shell back together. Right now i have installed all the front bushings but, i'm waiting on a ball joint i ordered and i need to get a new end link for my sway bar. I'm working on the rear this weekend and hope to have the sub frame back in the car some time this week. It seems like most people are cutting the rear bushings in half so they can press them in with ease over leaving them in one piece. I'll probably do the same but, first i need to burn out the old ones and cut out all the metal inner rings before i get to that point. Replacing all the bushings is a PITA so i hope i can feel improvement next time i drive her.
__________________
KA24E-T since 06/30/06
Tuned on E85 as of 3/30/09
KA24E-T sold on 10/3/09
You will most definitely feel an improvement. The stock rubber bushings are fairly sloppy when new, and when you add 20 years of road grime to them, and add some deterioration on top of that, you end up with a really crappy joint between metal parts. The urethane will really help tighten up the chassis. Don't expect too much improvement in the front tension rods, though. Nissan's stupid design with the huge rubber bushings isn't really helped a whole lot by the huge urethane bushings up front. It's just a really silly way to do that, and won't be fixed unless you go with a aftermarket adjustable tension rod.
__________________
Jessica Alba Fan Club Member #1
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoFortySX
Dude, I'm just jacking you off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95ZenkiS14
If you slam your car, Please in the rear and front get adjustable upper control arms.
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In the pics
I wasn't in a big hurry to find them, its not like the info is vital now.
