Rexbo’s Guide to the s13 to s14 Front 5-Lug Conversion and Brake Swap
This write-up is for those of you that want to know how to convert your usual 4-lug s13 to the later s14’s front 5-lug hub. There are various reasons you want to do this, namely, more wheel options and brake options. There are two ways to accomplish this: first, buy the GTO or Attain front hubs and bolt them on, or buy the junkyard s14 parts and fit them on your s13. I am writing up the 2nd method, as many people want to know exactly what it takes. Well here it is.
Tools:
- Jack & Jackstands
- Hammers (be sure to have a small 5-lb hammer)
- Ball joint removal tools (you can rent these from any auto parts store)
- 14mm, 17mm, 19mm 22mm and 28mm sockets, 6-sided preferable, and deep-socket
- 10mm box wrench or brake line wrench (preferable)
- Breaker bar and regular socket wrench
- Lithium grease and WD40
- Large and small needle nose pliers.
- Impact wrench (if you have access, it makes life easier, not required)
- Cutting wheel or nibbler (required)
- Helpful assistant (girlfriends not recommended)
Hardware:
- S14 Front spindles
- S14 front lower control arms with ball joints OR just new S14 front ball joints that you can order from
www.autopartswarehouse.com part #MOK9820 (you need to order two)
- 5-lug sleeves OR you can drill out your coilovers (not recommended). You can order the sleeves at
www.5lugsleeves.com
- New outer steering tie rod ends (recommended, but not necessary) you can order from
www.autopartswarehouse.com part #M3010-161806
- 5-lug brakes and wheels (you want this thing to roll right?)
- Steel braided brake lines (recommended, but not necessary)
- Cotter pins x4 (1/8” x 1” work fine)
- 2 more lug nuts (locking preferable)
Disassembly is the opposite of reassembly so just read backwards for that. This is from completely disassembled at the start. You need to do these steps twice remember, there are two sides to the car! Also remember to always securely have the car on jackstands. Never work under a car being only supported by a jack!
1) Begin by replacing the outer tie rod ends, as they are probably old and worn out. The boot on mine had completely torn and the actual ball joint inside was loose, no wonder my steering was clunking!
2) Take your s13 front lower control arms to a suspension shop and have them replace the ball joints with the s14 ones (OR just use the s14 complete arm), being sure to install the supplied c-clips. These require a shop press and special drift, so unless you have your own shop it is just easier to take it to someone with the right tools.
3) Install the lower control arm and tension rod assembly. If you have aftermarket tension rods, now is the time to install them as it is much harder when everything is bolted together. Lightly grease the two large bolts before sliding them through the control arm bushing and tension rod bushing and torque them to approx 50 ft-lbs torque using two 17mm sockets.
4) Reattach and install the front sway bar. If you have an aftermarket sway bar, now is the time to install it! There is one nut under the front lower control arm that clamps down on the end link bushing that requires a 14mm deep socket wrench to install. Install the two forward sway bar bushings with the same 14mm deep socket, torquing to around 40 ft-lbs.
5) Cut the dust shield off the back of the s14 front spindle, as most aftermarket brakes will hit it, and R32 GTR and Z32 brake rotors will hit it for sure. Using a cutoff wheel I found was the easiest way to do this. You will need to do this if you’re using GTO or Attain hubs as well. Or you can take the hub off by loosening the 28mm axle nut and prying the dust shield off as it has been pressed onto the spindle.
*CAUTION: AIR TOOLS AND CUTOFF WHEELS ARE DANGEROUS. WEAR SKIN AND EYE PROTECTION*
6) Spray paint primer or other sealer over the cut surfaces, you don’t want these rusting later!
7) Install the front spindles on the lower control arms by setting the spindle on top of the ball joint until firmly seated, then screw on the ball joint nut hand tight to retain it. Lightly grease the ball joint taper before installing as well, to inhibit rust. Using the 22mm socket, torque the ball joint crown nut to approx. 75 ft-lbs or until the crown slots line up with the cotter pin hole. Install and bend the cotter pins correctly as shown.
8) Install the spindle onto the coilovers. You may need an assistant to lift the spindle as the whole assembly can get heavy. Take the original s13 coilover bolts, and lightly grease the seating surface. Slide the supplied 5 lug sleeves over the bolts and grease the exterior of them as well. Line up the spindle holes with the coilover, and slide them through. Using two 17mm sockets, torque them to about 50 ft-lbs.
9) Attach the steering tie rod end to the spindle, lightly greasing the tapered surface first. Tighten down the crown bolt with a 19mm socket to about 40 ft-lbs or until the cotter pin hole lines up with the crown bolt slots. Install and bend the cotter pin correctly as shown before.
10) Install the brake rotors and calipers. Be sure that the bleed nipple on the brake caliper is on the top side! I found it was easiest to slide the rotor onto the hub first about halfway, then slide the caliper over the rotor then slide the whole assembly back. There are two 17mm bolts that secure the caliper to the spindle that should be torqued to about 50 ft-lbs.
11) Install the brake lines. Re-use the small hard line that connects the caliper to the rubber line and orient so that the tire will not rub against the line when you put the wheels on. Also be sure to leave enough slack so that the brake line will not be stretched or pinched when the wheels are at full steering lock. Torque all the flare fittings to about 12-15 ft-lbs torque using a 10mm box wrench being VERY careful not to strip any fittings. Install the line to clip to the various fittings. I re-used the original clips as they fit better.
12) Making sure to keep your master brake cylinder reservoir full, bleed the brakes as shown below with your trusty assistant. Man I love wikipedia!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_bleeding
13) Bolt on your wheels. Using a deep socket 19mm wrench, install lug nuts hand tight first, then torque them tight moving in a criss-cross pattern. Lower the car onto the ground and re-torque the lug nuts to approx. 100 ft-lbs in the same criss cross pattern.
14) Go get a front end alignment. Do not skip this step as a bad alignment will negate any benefit you will be getting from bigger brakes or larger tires!
15) Properly bed your brake pads as shown below (taken from the box for Hawk HPS pads). I would suggest not coming to complete stops, as if you do the brake pads may temporarily deposit some material on the rotor, causing judder later on. For the cooldown part, just drive at average speeds without braking hard for a while. When you do stop and park, try not setting the e-brake as well.
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
You’re done! Have fun and drive safe!
Total Costs:
- s14 Front spindles - $220.00
- s14 Front Lower ball joints (x2) - $62.86
- 5-lug Sleeves - $28.85
- Sportlines brake line kit - $119.00
- Ball joint pressing cost - $40.00
- New s13 tie rod end links - $58.42
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Total: $529.13
Turns out the GTO hubs are looking pretty affordable right about now! In fact, I would recommend that method over this one, because finding all the parts from junkyards and such is a pain in the butt.
If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me via Email at
Steven.B.Dawson@gmail.com or on AIM at Rexbo2006, or PM me anytime on these forums. Thank you and I hope this helps!
Rexbo
