Just installed all brand new q45 rotors and calipers up front. before replacing i had noticed a VERY VERY BAD wabble at 45-55 mph, and found out that the spindle on my drivers front side was going bad. So i went ahead and replaced it. At the same time I did the swap of the new q45 calipers, PDM SS brake lines, and all new rotors, but had them drilled to 4 lug. NOW, here is my question.
Q: When i had the rotors drilled, i went to pick them up and noticed that the holes for the studs on the rotor where bigger then the stock holes on my stock 240 rotors. When i put on the rotors i noticed that the studs had space (albeit VERY LITTLE, BUT STILL NOTICEABLE GAP) between the stud and the rotor metal. Now, I thought nothing of this until i finally took the car out for a spin. The brakes are F***ING sweet, and the EXTREME wobble is gone at the 45-55 mph zone, but now when i get to anything over 55 mph, there is a VERY VERY noticeable wobble in the steering wheel and it goes away the second i press on my brakes. So, my question is to you . . . could it be that the people who drilled my holes on the rotors drilled them bad and that is what's causing this problem? If so, does anyone here know of a place in Orange,CA 92867 or anywhere close that I can trust will do a GOOD JOB on the rotors? Thanx for all the help ahead of time.
Well could be alot of options id check id start with the following:
1) tire pressure
2) wheel balanced
3)alignment
4) check if wheels nuts are properly bolted( stupid but could happen)
those can cause the car to wobble at highway speeds could be much more tho! start by the simple!
let us know
ps: not to sure what u mean by wobble, sorry if i couldnt help ya good luck
what's odd though, is that before i did the brake upgrade, i was running the same exact rims and tires, and i got a extreme wobble(steering wheel violently shaking left and right) and i KNEW it was from the front driver side. So, i replaced the spindle ( there is no wheel bearing for the front i thought? I just unbolt the spindle with the studs attached and switch them out right?) and put brand new rotors on.(but they were drilled to 4 lug).
I REALLY think the problem is the drilling of the rotors. Can drilling a hole too big for the studs cause this sort of problem? One thing I noticed is that when i have the rims off the front and spin the rotors they hit a uneven spot or something and almost stop. while spinning the rotors the spin fine for about 3/4'th turn, and then all of a sudden feel like they are coming in contact with the pads.
These are brand new rotors, and brand new pads.
Does anyone here know where i can get new front wheel bearings/Spindles for cheap?
Well could be alot of options id check id start with the following:
1) tire pressure
2) wheel balanced
3)alignment
4) check if wheels nuts are properly bolted( stupid but could happen)
those can cause the car to wobble at highway speeds could be much more tho! start by the simple!
let us know
ps: not to sure what u mean by wobble, sorry if i couldnt help ya good luck
1) tire pressure is fine
2)Wheels are balanced
3) alignment is off, but i wouldn't think having a bad alignment would cause a shake and then it would go away with braking. It would prevail when braking if it was alignment. (also, anyone in here know of a GOOD racing alignment and weight adjustment shop around the Socal area? I'm trying to hold off on an alignemnt as long as possible, so every suspension part is in.)
4) I just did that when i got off of work today, no go.
Just to make sure what lbs of tqr do you guys torque your nuts to? I set mine at 135 lb ft.
I will be going over to the place that did my rotors tomorrow to talk to the guys there.
that hole should be close to perfect, i wouldnt settle for anything less...
i have a set of endless ecR33 rotors.. they have to be drilled for 4 lug, I'm not taking any chances. I'm giving them to a custom DriveShaft shop who makes wheels and drivetrain parts.
You have front wheel bearings. When you take the wheel off on there's nothing holding the rotor on but the caliper, you can grab the rotor opposite the caliber and shake it, that's normal. If the holes drilled through the rotor for the studs are oversize isn't good, but that's not what's causing your wobble. put you lug nuts on without the wheel, tighten them, then see if the rotor sticks.
if the holes are too big it wont matter as ling as the center hub fits in the center hub hole in the rotor snugly you are ok because i have put brakes on cars that the holes are too big and they work fine. but for your shaking take the car out on a back road and do about 55. (MAKE SURE THE ROAD IS EMPTY OF ALL TRAFFIC) then weave back and forth to load your wheels. I.E. turn left loads the right side turn right to load the left side if the vibration gets worse as you load one side of the car and less as you load the other side you have yourself a bad wheel bearing!
Yeah now that simple stuff are out of the way!
Sometimes when ur have worn out wheel bearing u can hear em!It makes this littlle noise....
could also be cause by worn tie rod ends and balljoints!(im just sayin things that could cause vibrations)
have u tried jackin the car and checkin for excessive play in the wheel! if u dont understand this let me know! ill try explaining it! ( im french :P)
You have front wheel bearings. When you take the wheel off on there's nothing holding the rotor on but the caliper, you can grab the rotor opposite the caliber and shake it, that's normal. If the holes drilled through the rotor for the studs are oversize isn't good, but that's not what's causing your wobble. put you lug nuts on without the wheel, tighten them, then see if the rotor sticks.
If i take my rims off and put the lug nuts on and tighten them down, and it still does the wobble what is the problem?
And what if it stops wobbling? What does that mean?
well if the rotors wobble then that means that it is causing it if not the its not causing it! because usually rotors are held in place due to the caliper and when u tighten ur wheels to the rotors it keeps it in place on the hub! so basically if u tighten em down and the disc doesnt move then its something else!
I pretty sure you wobble isn't caused by your rotors. I only told you to put the lug nut on and test your rotor rotation because without the nuts tight you didn't test anything. The first thing I would look at is wheel bearings, like I said a wobble that goes away when you use the brakes is a sign of loose or bad wheel bearings, if you can hear your wheel bearings, you've got a really quite car or some awfully bad bearings.
I pretty sure you wobble isn't caused by your rotors. I only told you to put the lug nut on and test your rotor rotation because without the nuts tight you didn't test anything. The first thing I would look at is wheel bearings, like I said a wobble that goes away when you use the brakes is a sign of loose or bad wheel bearings, if you can hear your wheel bearings, you've got a really quite car or some awfully bad bearings.
yeah on my celica and vr6 u could hear em whistle a little!thye wer really really bad i ended up selling the cars so i dont really mind!
wow, 95? that just seems sooo low to me. especially if ur racing the car.
UPDATE
I did what you said and tightened the lug nuts down and spun the rotor, and it spins now with no problem. My friend brought up a good point while we were talking. . . . The holes for the studs on my rotors where drilled too large, and by too large i mean i could easily fit the head of a flat-head screwdriver between the stud and the rotor. on almost every single one. Because of this, the rotor is off balance because while it should be held in perfect place by the studs, mine is actually moving around and causing the wobble in the steering wheel and when i press on the brakes it holds it straight and stops the wobble. But, I actually think it may be the alignment now because i was driving from one house to another today and while turning right i slammed the gas and I felt the car go left VERY FAST! And i have all polyU. bushings, MR coilovers, and brand new LCA's with brand new spherical outer tie rods and tein inner tie rods. So, i think once i get it alinged and so forth it will be fixed, but i am still hoping for other ideas till i find a racing alignment shop in Socal.
The FSM says 87 ft. lb. Torque is set by the factory by a bolts ability to hold. If you go above that you just stretch the bolt and don't hold any tighter, if you go too tight the bolt breaks while you're tightening it or even worse it fails in use. If you don't feel safe, have the spindle( you still should check that bearing) drilled for bigger studs, and guess what, you rotors might fit better then.
Well, I'm going to go buy new rotors and have them re-drilled to the EXACT dimension of the stock holes. I will then try that out and if that doesn't work then I'll be buying me a new set of bearings for the front wheels. I am also going to have the car aligned to make sure it isn't in the alignment.
im guaranteeing you that if the lug holes in the rotor are too big it wont cause a vibration because when the wheels are torqued on the rotor does not move at all because it is pinched inbetween the hub and the wheel, so i would just go straight for wheel bearings! Try this, with the wheels on the car torqued to proper spec, raise the front of the car enough to get the front off the ground then grab the top of the tire and shake it back and forth and if there is any play in the wheel bearings, the wheel will move around when it should be solid, plus you will probably hear metal hitting on metal as well. If this is your problem. Then let me know what happens.
I REALLY think the problem is the drilling of the rotors. Can drilling a hole too big for the studs cause this sort of problem? One thing I noticed is that when i have the rims off the front and spin the rotors they hit a uneven spot or something and almost stop. while spinning the rotors the spin fine for about 3/4'th turn, and then all of a sudden feel like they are coming in contact with the pads.
Looks like the machine shop screwed up your rotors. The rotors are turning off-center which will cause all sorts of problems. You'll have to get new rotors; take them to a shop that KNOWS what they're doing.
No, rotors should be hubcentric. That is, they rest on the hub ring not the wheel studs - its actually bad if the lug holes in the rotor are too tight, you can shear studs.
So if the hole in the middle of the rotor is larger than the hub ring it will cause problems. It needs to be snug so the load of the wheels rests on the hub ring rather than the studs.
The main cause of wheel wobble is usually one of the following...
-Unbalanced tyre (thrown weight)
-Worn wheel bearings
-Tyre balloon or fault
-Tyre flatspotting
-Incorrect alignment
-Warped rotors
-Driveshaft imbalance
-Worn tie rod ends
-Damaged wheel, rotor or hub
240SXforums.com is in no way affiliated with Nissan Motors Co, Ltd.
All Trademarks are property of their respective owners. 240SXforums.com is an enthusiast community for the Nissan 240SX (Silvia).
