Mark CAS position by drawing a circle arround one of the bolts on the CAS. Remove the CAS
Remove all accessory belts
unbolt and remove crank pulley
Set motor to tdc (place crank pulley loosely over the end of the crank, with the wedge key lined up, turn until the second from the left timing mark on the pulley lines up with the mark on the timing cover. You should be looking perpindicular to the crank pulley.)
remove the upper and lower timing covers
check the cam timing to make sure the mark in each cam gear lines up with the mark on the back of the timing cover.
loosen the 12 or 14 mm nut that holds the tensioner in place.
remove the timing belt
make sure coolant is flushed
remove water pump
replace with new one with appropriate gasket
tighten all bolts
replace timing belt.
make sure all marks are still lined up
tension the belt with the correct size allen wrench
tighten the nut
replace covers and CAS
put your water pump pulley and crank pulley on
Use red locktite on the crank pulley bolt
replace and tension accessory belts
if you used a silicone gasket, make sure you give it time to dry
thanks for the help on that. im going to swap the water pump today when i get off work and hope i can have it done by 11pm or so. do i need to replace the timing belt at the same time? i was thinking about changing it out but i didnt order one. so what i might do is order a new one once payday comes around then put it on then and just use the old one until next week
while everything is open, visually inspect it. If it looks fine, don't worry about it too much. Although it would be nice to have a brand new one. I'd say if the old one looks fine run it for now. Buy a new one when you get the chance. It's easy to replace the timing belt. Hardest part is just getting the crank pulley off. Make sure you have a gear puller. Three jaw works best. 8" or bigger
i told him to rent one cuz harbor freight tools is a ways away from where we live. and his car will overheat half way there. autozone we can practally walk to.
also s14-240 the cas is the sensor on head connected to the exhaust cam side right? so just mark the bolts so it goes on about the same. its for timing right. so if its off we can double check with a timing light and correct it right?
also not too clear on the tdc part. so we should take the pulley off first? but the pulley is what has the marks on it. but is that why you said to loosen it up and leave it on the end so we can still turn the crank with the pulley in the right spot? and we do this before we pull the lower timing belt cover off right.
also do you have a pic of what mark we are looking for on the timing belt cover. we couldnt really see it yet? just want to make sure we are lookin at it right.
and whats the best way to rotate the crank? thanx alot for all the help
yes that is where the CAS is. Mark on the cas, arround the bolts/washers, and realign them when you reinstall them. The cas will only go into the cam one way, there is a notch in there that lines up. You will want to inspect the inside of the CAS and the cam so you know you how it goes together. Yes you can double check it with a timing light. If you do that post up and I will tell you how, it is somewhat different than on other cars.
You take the pulley off first because when you try to loosen the bolt that holds it on it will rotate, so it wouldn't do much good to set it to tdc. so you take it off, but can loosely put it back on to mark tdc. Yes this is before taking off the lower timing cover. here are pics. The circled part is the mark on the cover. in the close up, the white mark is the first one. The yellow is the second. When setting timing for the belt, use this one. If your timing light does not have a setting for how advanced you want the timing (15-18) you will have to look at the 4th from the left mark and set it to there. Ignore this now, it may be confusing.
btw crank pulley is a 27mm socket. You will need a good breaker bar and a larg pry bar, or an impact wrench to get it off. With the hand tools, have a friend get under your car and stick a pry bar in the flywheel to hold it in place so you can get it off. If you don't want to bend the dust cover to the side, take off the starter and put the pry bar in there.
well i have the fsm for the r32 skyline now. and i was looking at the remove/install of the water pump and from what it shows and says you only need to drain the coolant and remove the timing belt cover then take off the water pump
I kno when I did mine it was confusing at first because I never did one (changing timing belt and waterpump). But its alot easier then it sounds. Just remember TDC (top dead center). As for the CAS I never marked mine or anything so I guess thats my mistake when I took it off when I removed my cam cover (ill play with that later).
When changing the waterpump remember to use a torque wrench because YOU WILL snap the bolt in half! I kno because I have experienced this. Also it would be alot easier if you labeled your bolts to where they should go because they are not all the same length! Like the bolt that connects your alternator to your waterpump as opposed to the other end.
Just my .2 cents.
As for how hard it is to change your waterpump and timing belt I give it a 4/10! Remember its just time consuming and a pain in the ass when the motor is in the car (6/10).
Where'd my S13 go?? SOLD!
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you can't get to the water pump with out removing the lower timing cover. I didn't think you could get that off without removing the crank pulley. Then, it is hard to get the water pump in there behind the timing belt. If you already have the cas and both timing covers off, you may as well take the timing belt off.
see that pic. you could maybe slide the water pump in from the side, but you will have to move the timing belt to the side to get to some of the bolts, and you will probably mess up the gasket by trying to slide it in while the motor is in the car. Still pretty sure you have to remove the crank pulley to get the lower timing cover off.
yeah i was looking at the timing belt pics in the fsm and it looks like you might be able to slide it out through the side but that would be the only way. and seeing how this is my first time it will take me longer and i should probably not take any short cuts. today i was thinking about what my car has been doing since i bought it and it seems like the water pump is for sure the problem. or something else is prevnting it from circulating the coolant. thanks for the info on the bolts not being the same length i will mark them as to where they came from so that way i do not jack that part up. hopefully when i get this done everything will start working the way it needs to be. also the fsm probably shows removing and installing for the engine not installed in a car where as me im doing it while its in the car so i have less room to work with.
Yep. I have done this a few times while the motor is in the car, and I'm pretty damn sure there is no other good way to do it. This way you also learn how to do the timing belt and you don't have to come ask about it when you get one.
ok i do not know what we are doing wrong but it seems no matter what we do as far as the timing belt is concerened it is still off by 1/2 to 1/4 of a tooth. is there some special trick the manual doesnt cover? i would like to get this problem solved. the old water pump looked fine but im hoping there is something wrong i couldnt see and that the new one fixes the overheating problem.
Last edited by tibordobrosi; 08-10-2006 at 10:11 AM.
yeah I have noticed this too. First off, see how the timing mark is not directly above the crank pulley, it is off to the side. you have to look off to th side. Also, it could be off a little because of the tension. If you are only 1/4 tooth off, it is probably good. Then tension it and rotate the crank a few times. The crank and the cams should line up every two turns of the crank, becuase the cams spin at half the speed of the crank. turn it 6-8 times and see if it looks better.
when you take the crank pulley off, you have the timing gear on the crank. that gear has one of those dots on one of the teeth, just like the cam gears. and we were aligning that with a notch thats on the ridge thats below the gear and to the right a little. like at the 4 or 5 o'clock position. So im guessing we are going off of the wrong thing?? or is that shit a spot you can align it from?
sorry i was out of it yesterday. so we are using the wrong spot on the bottom to line it up? i was thinking there might be a white notch like the others its just the engine is so dirty we cannot see it so i will wipe it off today and look at it
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