Battery keeps draining - any ideas? - Nissan 240SX Forums
S13 240SX (89-94) Technical Questions Specifically for ALL S13's. (Including 180SX's, 200SX's & Silvia's)

 
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#1 Old 12-03-2008, 06:24 AM
 
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Battery keeps draining - any ideas?

i've had my 89' 240sx for 3-4 years now and gone through atleast a battery or two a year, that aint right. and i wasn't just buying the cheapest piece of crap i could find either..

anyways, my battery keeps getting drained by something and i can't figure it out. just put in a new one earlier today as well, sposed to last atleast 3 years, we'll see.. har.. alternator's been tested good at autozone too, connections are all fine, did a voltage drop test, that was fine. did a parasitic draw draw test and i was over 100mA, that's a bit high, from what I understand it should be below 25-50 or so mA.. yanked the 75A FL Alt fuse and it went way down to a more normal reading. I can't figure out what's going on. And yeah, fuse itself looks fine as well, looked in the little plastic thing at the top and the metal's still connected and all.. Also, just incase I'm an idiot, that's the first time I've done a parasitic draw test. it is 25-50 mA I'm aiming for right? I don't want to go through this hassle thinking that I'm narrowing down the problem just to to find out I missed a decimal point\zero and that it's 250-500 mA, then the 100 mA wouldn't be so bad lol..

my battery drains fast though, if I just don't drive it for a week, it'll be dead next time I try to crank it up..

there anything aside from the alternator on that 75A FL? I've been going back and forth through the FSM trying to find info on it, but I've got a feeling I may just be looking for something that isn't there lol.. But if there's only the alternator on there, then I'd assume it's either gotta be the alternator or something crappy with the connection that i'm not noticing..

I'm going to take it back to autozone and get the alternator, voltage regulator, and charging system tested again, just incase. On a side note, anyone know specifically what their alternator test actually tests for? I had another guy suggesting that the rectifier may be flaking out, but he worked in an auto electric shop and wanted to charge me just to take a look at it, and when I asked how much it'd run "I don't know, it could cost anything" ... Don't wanna pay some jerk $300 when I can buy a new alternator for $105 lol.. But, is that a possibility? Autozone's test not test it that thoroughly and there still a possibility something's screwed with it causing the drain even if it passed the test?

any help\ideas\suggestions would be much appreciated, this thing's driving me nuts lol.. thanks
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#2 Old 12-03-2008, 09:09 AM
 
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crank the car up, have your voltmeter hook up on the battery on V, direct current, and tell me what the readings are,
we have some testers like at autozone at our shop an they are not that good at all
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#3 Old 12-11-2008, 10:05 AM
 
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New problem.. x_x

Sorry for the slow response, was going nuts trying to fix it, thought I had it, then it came home on a tow truck last night.

If you need exact readings or updated readings, I'd have to remember where I put the thing now, but I did it around the time I made this post and the battery jumped to around 14v cranked.

But for a bit of an update on what's been done regarding this.. Went to autozone again like I said and got everything tested, this time around they said the alternator wasn't doing a damn thing. So when we were about to put a new alternator in, I noticed the belt was pretty loose.. Tightened it up a bit, tested it again, and it was fine according to autozone's tester.

So, for the New problem:

Since then, it had been doing fine until last night. Now the battery isn't drained though. Just tried starting it and at first it sounded like it was barelyyy trying to start. Then it suddenly stopped, and each time I tried turning the key after that, as soon as I did, i'd hear a few clicking sounds then it just didn't do anything. But with the key just in.. my seatbelts, radio, heater, etc all works, so it's not the battery's fault this time. So, any new suggestions?
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#4 Old 12-11-2008, 12:35 PM
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is your battery ground terminal hooked up well and in good shape? The stock terminals crack easy and make very half-ass connections... I found mine when my car died in traffic at a red light once... That makes you trouble shoot really fast.

Also, is there an alarm on the car?

Bow

S13 owner since 1997, E85 burner since June 2007



Notice: Reading the Factory Service Manual has been known to be educational and prevent the asking of retarded questions on public internet forums.

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#5 Old 12-11-2008, 12:49 PM
 
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damn this is interesting. i have a 3000gt and when i first got it, sometimes when i was trying to start her i would hear a click and nothing. after 7-10 false starts with the clicking sound it would start right up. i replaced the starter thinking that was it, not. it turned out to be a bad starter relay switch. so my mechanic buddy wired up an alternate relay. after that it has had no problems. hope this helps
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#6 Old 12-11-2008, 01:36 PM
 
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its most likely your alternator. had an altima that did that too me but the battery was good. when i tried to start it would start clicking. i think my brake light and battery lights were on when i got it running cause i got a boost from someone. replaced the alternator and everything was fine after that.

i have a class about alternators and they got some shit in them like a reverse current cutout relay or diodes and if they are not working it will drain your battery. some shit like that...
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#7 Old 12-12-2008, 05:14 AM
 
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thats funny my cars starting to act like that also and im thinking about getting the alternator tested this weekend. but my car started acting wierd in a different situation though. i had a used motor that had to swapped in due to my old one just dieing out. took apart and had all gasket sealed with new chain belts etcs. i went broke and didnt had the time and money to keep going untill 2 years later. then finally swapped in the motor and got it running fine, but just needed a couple tunning. a year past by with the money and time blah blah i finally got it running smootly so smooth that i had to look for something wrong with it, but none at that time. then i got bord so i worked on my F&R big brakes conversion(the car is back on jack stands again). now that its been about 6 years when i really had to test drive it and push it to the limit. the car started acting up after a couple donuts and hard swings going sidwayz....hmmmmmm.... gather up all my thoughts and im also thinking that i might have the same problem as you. so hpoefully after this weekend i'll figure out your problem and mines..........to be continued
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#8 Old 12-12-2008, 08:29 AM
 
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one time my car was doing the same thing

found out i melted the wires going under the driver seat to the auto seat belt unit abd the ebrake on light was draining my battery. wtf

solution: dont run catalytic converters, and fix the wires

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#9 Old 12-12-2008, 11:24 AM
 
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of course there will be less parasitic drain if you remove the ALT fuse. without that fuse nothing will get power, not the kickpanel light, nor the clock, not even the dinging with door ajar and key in ignition. you have a stupid wiring problem somewhere in that abyss of wires that flows through your car... could be anything thats what sucks about electrical problems. you gonna have to spend a good 'ol saturday probing wires, and eventually you should find it. Good luck!
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