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#1 Old 04-19-2004, 01:38 AM
 
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O2 Sensor?

new thread for another problem

Ok. What are the symptoms of a failing O2 sensor? Does the KA24DE rely on it heavily for A/F mixture? I just set the timing, the thing's got new plugs and wires, a whole new damn timing chain kit, its running new clean gas (with Chevron Techron cleaner in it), All the intake couplers are tight and sealed, No cracks in the intake tube, Plugs to the MAF and Distributor are snug... but i keep getting randomized power loss. It'll cruise fine but any time I accelerate it will intermittently bog down as if the ignition timing goes way retarded. Its a similar sensation to not getting gas but definitely not as severe as just lifting my foot from the pedal... I guess another good question to ask is how reliable are the stock fuel pumps? maybe the psi is low. i did install a new fuel filter.

I was hoping that setting the timing would clear all the problems up but its still being weird.


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#2 Old 04-19-2004, 01:18 PM
 
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anybody?

I was thinking, it may be the MAF internally... its got a new filter but the thing might be all grody inside.


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#3 Old 04-19-2004, 02:24 PM
 
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hmmm my shit does that too.... kind of a bummer cause i thought i fixed it with a new fuel filter but nope. I'm doin my new plugs and wires this week. I guess I'll see what happens. I thought my problem might be timing, I'd suggest seeing what happens when you race the engine while timing it, and see if there is a problem there. Seems whenever I turn the idle thing to race the engine it never stutters, but when i push the gas it does, maybe a pedal problem... lol doesn't even sound right, shit oh well... good luck btw

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#4 Old 04-19-2004, 02:36 PM
 
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Im starting to think MAF. Its getting annoying, cuz the car's not smooth and unable to acclerate when I need it to on the highway. Its got plenty of power in the low rpm's, but when air flow gets up there at around 3krpm + its just worthless


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#5 Old 04-19-2004, 09:21 PM
 
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I'm in the SAME BOAT!

We need to keep in touch on this one. After 3k on mine, it just feels like NADA! It runs like crap at idle too! The rest of the RPM range it's pretty smooth at, but NO power after 3k! I'm gonna bring it to work in a few days to install my suspension, i'll check my fuel pressure at idle and WOT and see what's up.

S30 was sold
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#6 Old 04-19-2004, 09:33 PM
 
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How many miles are on your car? Ive got 180k... Ive read that mice like to build nests in the intake snorkle before the filter box but mines clear, IVe heard people take out the MAF and spray Brakleen in it and its like new... Mine idles perfectly, though. It idled HIGH till i set the timing, but now that its set it didnt fix anything but the pinging. I got some brakleen and a few minutes... ill try that later.

Anyone know if an SR20 maf will work? ive got one of those for some reason lying around.... it looks like itll fit, the plug is the same, its just got no numbers on it.


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#7 Old 04-19-2004, 10:07 PM
 
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new thread for another problem
thats the reason for the forums man.
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#8 Old 04-19-2004, 10:34 PM
 
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The o2 sensor only works at lower throttle positions, mainly for idle and cruise. When you get on the throttle, the computer tables take over fueling. A loss of power like you say can be either bad MAF or failing ignition system.
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#9 Old 04-20-2004, 05:23 PM
 
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It could be ALOT of things. The MAF, definitely. Ign, I doubt it. Cause then it would start running rich. Sounds like Fuel to me, that's what mine FEELS like too. Before I built the Engine in my 260Z, I had Dual Hitachi SUs on it, and if you didn't have the mixture set right, at about 5krpm, it would starve for fuel, and it would do the SAME thing that the S13 is doing. Feels the same. For now I just need to get the car to work, get my fuel pressure/flow gauge hooked up and drive it around and see what it does, then compare it to specs.

S30 was sold
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#10 Old 04-21-2004, 12:13 AM
 
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I have a 300z maf and tried it out since i had it and it was a direct fit... I noticed the inner diameter was slightly smaller than that of the 2.4's, contoured in appearance to increase intake velocity... whatever

It started and ran kind of rough in low rpm's... but once i was on the road, It felt smooth. Underpowered, but stable and not as unpowerful than when the car's experiencing troubles with the original maf.

After driving and coming to a stop light, it stalled out. I had to keep on the gas to keep it above stalling... i think it was telling the injectors to dump a lot of fuel. I took the other maf and a 10mm racheting wrench with me and replaced it at the gas station... also put 32lbs of air in my tires with the weird new computerized air pump shaped to vaguely resemble 60's retro golden era style...

then i left and went right back to the same problems on the original maf

edit: after i brakleened the thing at home. No change after cleaning it with strong chemicals


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#11 Old 04-21-2004, 01:39 AM
 
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get a walbro fuel pump, it'll be good either way...but it could by chance fix your problem. and if not then oh well, a higher lph fuel pump is always good!

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#12 Old 04-21-2004, 07:49 PM
 
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I havent checked fuel pressure but I believe its fine. Im still on the same cap/rotor that were on the car when I got it, ive got no idea how many miles are on them... but i cleaned up the rotor and the leads inside the cap (which had corroded), replaced the O2 sensor with a $18 bosch single wire unit from autozone (original definitely WAS bad, as per checking with ECU diag), and still got the same drivability issues.

Then i thought about the EGR system while making sure all the vacuum lines and stuff were in order. I got out my vacuum gauge and hooked it up to the line between the exaust gas pressure sensor and EGR valve and sure enough, on throttle the EGR was WIDE OPEN. So trying to accelerate the EGR was Dumping exhaust back into the mixture. I thought the EGR was only supposed to supply during deceleration and at idle. So, i plugged the line with a little fine thread screw so the EGR will stay closed and it drives much better now. Still feels a little down on power but its a LOT SMOOTHER. MUCH more consistant.


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#13 Old 04-21-2004, 09:31 PM
 
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What you MIGHT want to try with the MAF, is pulling off your batt. cable for about 5 min after you swap them out. Your KAM (Keep alive memory) still thinks you have the stock MAF in there, and doesn't know what's up, so that may be why yours is running rough.

I too thought my MAF was dead, when I got the car I left the hood open while it was raining, and the MAF was right out in the open. So, it got exposed to water. Upon reading what happens when a MAF usually goes bad (not able to rev over 2500) i'm thinking it's NOT that, but COULD be. I'm going to head to the junkyard in a few days, and see what I can grab.

Which EGR line did you plug? There's a few.

I'm thinking our problems may be fuel related. I was going to test fuel pressure today when I did my suspension, but I made a mistake and had to pull my rears off again to put a bushing in, lol, and didn't have time to do anything else. I'll check soon.

S30 was sold
S14 was totalled
'89 Coupe is still alive.
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#14 Old 04-21-2004, 11:59 PM
 
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least your guys cars start up. it was runnin fine all day, then after I put some fuel system cleaner in it, it started acting up. my car wont even start, and if it does, it spikes to 2K then dies. no idle or nothing. and if it starts. i can tap the gas and nothin happens . I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, wires, plugs, distributor, rotor cap so far. I guess ill have to check the o2 sensor this weekend. How much is it for new injectors? also a new o2 sensor?

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#15 Old 04-22-2004, 02:05 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
replaced the O2 sensor with a $18 bosch single wire unit from autozone
What kind of cleaner did you use? Some are fairly bogus. Did you use "Fuel injector cleaner" or did you use like Slick50 engine restorer or something like that? Im on my last 1/2 tank with Chevron w/ Techron fuel system cleaner and its runnin like a champ. That stuff is really awesome and I reccomend it to everyone with a fuel injected car for use once every 2 oil changes.

Liquid, I drove on the 300's maf just to try it for about 3 miles and changed back to the stock maf at the gas station. I reset the ECU manually doing my diag's today... before i reset I got an 'ECU circuit bad' code (code 15 iirc, one long blink then 5 short ones?) from it still fussing about having the other maf in there previously. After i reset it I got code 55, meaning a list of like 7 things were fine including MAF circuit. The O2 sensor test had me holding rev's at 2000rpm and having me count how many times the check engine light blinks within 10 seconds (those japs are crazy)... if you have 5 blinks within 10 seconds its within tolerance, and more blinks = more healthy. The original O2 had 4 blinks, the new one had 6.

The vacuum line I plugged was the one going from the exhaust pressure sensor to the EGR valve itself; The line that provides the vacuum which opens the EGR. The screw in there doesnt leave anything open, the sensor simply pulls vacuum against the screw instead of the egr valve. I swear to god that's whats letting my car run good now.

Does your car COMPLETELY cut off power at 2500rpm? Ive read other sources that say that symptom is a dead MAF. The ecu goes into safety mode and wont let you rev past 2500 if the maf is bad.

(edited for better read flow)


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Last edited by Neil; 04-22-2004 at 02:17 AM.
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#16 Old 04-22-2004, 11:29 AM
 
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I used Prestone Fuel System cleaner. It was like 5.49 for the bottle. My car doesnt even start up! It justs keeps cranking but wont turn over. The one time it did start last nite, it went to 2000 RPM(I didnt touch the throttle at all) then immediatly died. So I have no clue whats wrong besides it acts as though its not getting any fuel.

Also where is the PCV valve located at? I dont have the FSM and the guy at Autozone who had previously owned a 240, said that could be part of my problem with it idling bad.

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#17 Old 04-22-2004, 01:43 PM
 
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When i get home ill see if i can find anything in my nissan shop manual. Thing is about that manual is its full of instructions, but theyre not specific at all. I went to replace my rear pads and it said "Remove retaining clips and detach caliper. Replace pads." Ill see what it says about the PCV system cuz i dont know either.

Also I read up on how th EGR system works, and I dont think the valve or presence of vacuum is to blame. In the lower manifold there's 4 ports for the gasses to get injected; one for each cylinder. As time passes the carbony exhaust gasses plug up these ports one by one, and if one plugs up the others end up pouring more exhaust than normal into their cylinders, which drastically leans out their mixture. If those ports were all clear and functioning properly then I most likely wouldnt have had my problem.


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Last edited by Neil; 04-22-2004 at 01:46 PM.
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#18 Old 04-22-2004, 03:10 PM
 
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You know, before this shit started, I put some Seafoam in my tank.

Maybe this has got something to do with the injector cleaners we're using?

S30 was sold
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#19 Old 04-22-2004, 03:15 PM
 
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If it is b/c of that. Im gonna be pissed. I need a job bad and you cant get a job if you dont have a car to take you there

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#20 Old 04-23-2004, 10:56 PM
 
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well, im glad I put that fuel cleaner in the tank after all... its basically making your slowly dieing fuel pump die faster. I replaced the fuel pump tonite and it started up. You could tell a definite change in the motor(before it started up) and that fuel was actually getting to the block. So be glad you put the cleaner in your tank now, so your pump fails now instead of while your away from home.

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#21 Old 04-23-2004, 11:58 PM
 
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Good to hear yr back on the road.

How much did the new pump run you? Are they easy to replace?


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#22 Old 04-24-2004, 01:21 PM
 
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The new pump($88) and strainer($12) cost $103 all together at Autozone. It was a Masters pump and strainer, they carried AC Delco but didnt have any instock but the Delco was like $120 just for the pump I think. Replacing them was super easy, you dont have to drop the tank or anything. Undo the 4 screws in the hatch holdin the cover down, undo the 6 screws holding the pump to it. Pull it out, change everything over to the new pump and just repete the process to put back in. In total, it prolly only took 20 mins to pull the pump out, change it and reinstall the pump back in the car. So if your havin probs with your car boggin down or not starting period, you definitly want to check the fuel pump.

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