Bogging issues? Hesitation? Look here. - Page 4 - Nissan 240SX Forums
S13 240SX (89-94) Technical Questions Specifically for ALL S13's. (Including 180SX's, 200SX's & Silvia's)

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#76 Old 01-21-2010, 12:02 AM
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my car was bogging and missing and the injector wires were touching inside the pig tail i heat shinked the wires and pluged it back in and bam it stopped
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#77 Old 01-26-2010, 05:25 PM
 
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Originally Posted by 92White240 Last Post
If the part where the o2 sensor plugs into the harness was burned up or shorted out would it cause an engine to run bad without the CEL coming on?
Let me explain how it is running: Idle isn't jumping up and down like a vacuum leak. It seems like it isn't running on all cylinders. Also, it makes the manual shifter kinda sway left to right more than any car I have ever seen.

I plan on doing a tune-up in the next few days I just wanted to ask beforehand to see if anyone else has had an experience such as this. Also, if it is shorted out where would be the best place to just get part of the harness or would I have to buy a whole new one.

The car was originally an automatic. I really wish the person that done the swap would have used a manual harness.

Anyways, thanks for any help. This car is turning out to be more of a project than I had imagined, but at least when I am done it will be reliable.
My poor running was caused by a bad injector. Impedance as follows :
Cylinder#1 33.5 o.0
Cylinder#2 13.7
Cylinder#3 15.1
Cylinder#4 Nothing.No corrosion on injector connections. Just a really bad injector I assume.

Refuse to feed trolls!
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#78 Old 02-02-2010, 05:30 PM
 
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please help

hey guys well heres my problem and before anybody says to read the post i have literally read every post word for word. i have a 90 240 HB. has cold air header exhaust you know the norm. also all emissions removed including power steering and a/c. my problem is the norm the car always starts right away unless its cold then i have to fire it up a few times. after i start it though the rpms jump in between 500 and 1k. usually its around 700-900. sometimes it will drop below 500 rpms and when it does it dies. but will start again. but sometimes when im driving if i kill it or im rolling coming to a stop it just dies and wont start again for about 5 min. also if im in 1st sometimes it will bog out for a min. when i give it some gas but then will get goin and it runs fine and strong in every gear though. also sometimes my muffler shoots out something it looks black im taking it its oil. i would start replacing my tps, maf etc but im extremely low on money right now. so if anybody has a good idea of what could cause the bad idle and dying please let me know thanks alot
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#79 Old 02-23-2010, 04:49 PM
 
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Make sure the Distributer cap is grounded mine was doin the same when I got it Then I saw that it wasn't so I just ran a 12g wire from its ground to the ground for my ignition coil. that could be the reason for dying.. the boggin make sure all vac lines are connected if your runnin cold air
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#80 Old 02-23-2010, 05:18 PM
 
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Check your injector make sure there not clogged mines doin it right now i gotta go take mine out and do a deep clean
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#81 Old 03-07-2010, 09:19 AM
 
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ok. so my car has a HORRIBLE kas24de bog issue...
it starts up and shoots the rpm through the roof to 2k rpm then
eventually drops rpm rapidly and dies.
but if i gas it at neutral, the car doesnt dies n if i let off the gas
it dies. Car runs good once i get it up n on the road at speed and dies
when im pressing on the brakes when stopping at a light or stop sign.

i thought it was the maf going bad so i went and bought another one
but the same problem is still there. so now im it's something that revolves around
the intake manifold.

any suggestions
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#82 Old 03-07-2010, 01:38 PM
 
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I have a s13 1990. Recently, the idle goes up and down. Anyone has this issue?
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#83 Old 03-14-2010, 11:20 PM
 
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i have a 1991 240sx with a completely stock motor so i bought a injen air intake on ebay for 150 bucks i get it sent to me with 2 rubber hoses a little one and a bigger one with no directions and the idiot i bought the car from thought he was cool and blocked off allot of the lines coming from under the throtle body with screws and weld i bought a new exaust for this car aswell the reason for me buying this intake was my car had an issue that no mahcanic could find the problem when the car starts it runs real good for bout 5 mins then starts smoking and skipping real bad i changed all the injectors fuel filter pretty much the stuff i thought it could be so i also bought a new mass air flow sensor but now seeing that i found all those hoses that were cut and blocked off i have no idea what to do from here if anyone could give me some advice or anything id be truely thankful its getting way to much gas
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#84 Old 03-25-2010, 01:49 AM
 
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ok guys i have a serious problem.
i fucked shit up and almost lit my car on fire.
ok so here is what happened i was sliding around some back road
and i lost it in to a ditch i didn t fuck anything up yet but i was stuck.
when tryed to get my car out the exaust was so hot it started a leaf fire under my car
so my car was roasting for about four mins right on th passenger side of the transsmissin
i could c the fire through the center consoule after i ripped it up
but luckily i got the car off before it all went up.
no my problem is that my car bangs out at 5 grand ever gear and in neutral
i burnt one of the wires or sensors that goes to the transmisson real bad its crispy.
the others i think my b ok. am going to have to go by a new harness or something.
but its real burnt including where it pugs in the transmission.
am i fucked or is there hope? please throw me a bone.
just the name of the wire would help alot or what it does.
o yeah and shes a 91 super hicas if that changes anything no mods to speak of
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#85 Old 04-08-2010, 06:13 PM
 
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flabergas Question

i have a 95 240sx and almost everytime i stop and turn the key/engine off i hear bubbles and im pretty possitive its coming from the gas tank and also when i take the gas cap off a lot air rushes in now i believe gas caps are made to let air in and not out ive also notice the mileage is not as good as it used to be idk if that the same issue or what
my question is are the bubble sounds because of that or am i way off please any help is appreciated

unless this has been discussed a link would be grape
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#86 Old 04-11-2010, 03:43 PM
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another thing yall should check is the wiring harness itself, i discovered that when i moved the harness the car dropped RPM's and the white smoke followed so like stated above it could be a grounding problem but on mine i found some melted wires that were touching the block. so i might just go ahead and find a new harness.
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#87 Old 04-17-2010, 12:09 AM
 
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Very helpful thread!

NO LSD is like having one leg wtf?

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#88 Old 04-23-2010, 08:56 PM
 
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I am not completely certain if this could be considered a bogging issue or not, however I do need help. I purchased a 1990 240sx SOHC for $200 it needed to have the head gasket replaced and even came with the new gasket. I have never done any serious motor work up until this point but I was confident that I could tackle it. I took a weekend and got the head job done(along with cleaning everything under the hood and replacing all gaskets)luckily I had a friend to help with timing. The car fired right up and ran with a slight miss, I only drove it a few times as it still is not legal to have on the street. I was trying to run all of the(at least)1 yr old gas out of it so I could finally fill it up with quality fuel. Finally it wouldn't start so I thought I had accomplished my goal only to find out that after I filled it up it still would not start, I was apparently not out of fuel this was a new issue. I went out the next day to try it and it started, but now the car acts as if there is a rev limiter at 2500 RPM'S. I am aware of a potential vacuum leak that I am certain is contributing to the high idle I am experiencing, but I do not think it would contribute to limiting my RPM'S. I read a post on this thread where someone had similar issues and it turned out to be the MAF, I unhooked said sensor, started the car and nothing had changed. I am fairly certain this would point to a bad sensor replace it, but I just wanted to double check with the nissan communtiy before doing so since I cannot afford trial and error at this moment in time, also could an O2 sensor cause such a problem? Sorry for the long winded post, this is actually the condensed version I talk alot.
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#89 Old 05-18-2010, 03:45 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesson_52 Last Post
i am not completely certain if this could be considered a bogging issue or not, however i do need help. I purchased a 1990 240sx sohc for $200 it needed to have the head gasket replaced and even came with the new gasket. I have never done any serious motor work up until this point but i was confident that i could tackle it. I took a weekend and got the head job done(along with cleaning everything under the hood and replacing all gaskets)luckily i had a friend to help with timing. The car fired right up and ran with a slight miss, i only drove it a few times as it still is not legal to have on the street. I was trying to run all of the(at least)1 yr old gas out of it so i could finally fill it up with quality fuel. Finally it wouldn't start so i thought i had accomplished my goal only to find out that after i filled it up it still would not start, i was apparently not out of fuel this was a new issue. I went out the next day to try it and it started, but now the car acts as if there is a rev limiter at 2500 rpm's. I am aware of a potential vacuum leak that i am certain is contributing to the high idle i am experiencing, but i do not think it would contribute to limiting my rpm's. I read a post on this thread where someone had similar issues and it turned out to be the maf, i unhooked said sensor, started the car and nothing had changed. I am fairly certain this would point to a bad sensor replace it, but i just wanted to double check with the nissan communtiy before doing so since i cannot afford trial and error at this moment in time, also could an o2 sensor cause such a problem? Sorry for the long winded post, this is actually the condensed version i talk alot.

maf

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#90 Old 05-18-2010, 03:46 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godcre8tor Last Post
i have a 95 240sx and almost everytime i stop and turn the key/engine off i hear bubbles and im pretty possitive its coming from the gas tank and also when i take the gas cap off a lot air rushes in now i believe gas caps are made to let air in and not out ive also notice the mileage is not as good as it used to be idk if that the same issue or what
my question is are the bubble sounds because of that or am i way off please any help is appreciated

unless this has been discussed a link would be grape
Are you sure it isn't the radiator/coolant reservoir? Mine does that after not having coolant in it for a while just water...But once you add coolant bubbling stops

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#91 Old 06-11-2010, 03:07 PM
 
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Hi i am getting the code 21- Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning how do i fix that? where can i find that?
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#92 Old 06-12-2010, 12:12 AM
 
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Dont forget if you seafoam your intake to change your spark plugs because they will have crazy carbon build up on them... mine did after i seafoamed my intake
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#93 Old 07-09-2010, 07:22 PM
 
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my car wont start after me replacing the intake gaskets it only turned on once .any body with an answer...?????

someone
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#94 Old 08-25-2010, 10:52 AM
 
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Nice ima check all of these to check why my 240 is kicking so much smoke and for the idle I believe its running rich cause it smells like oil when it comes out black also squirts a bit sometimes from the exhaust.
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#95 Old 09-02-2010, 09:52 PM
 
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Exclamation Rough idle, intermittent stutter (read all posts and still no clue)

Car:
1993 240sx KA24DE

Recent maintenance (approx 8-10 months ago):
spark plugs
wires
valve cover gasket
1 failed fuel injector
(It was scheduled for an oil change this weekend also)

Problem:
Drove to work about 6 miles, no problems. Drove during lunch, no problems. After work, got in and turned the key and it had a rough start and was shaking and bogging down. The RPM seemed to stay steady, stuttering up and down slightly. But the car shakes violently. I turned it off and looked under the hood and noticed that oil was seeping from the valve gasket. Checked the oil and it was nearly bone dry. I limped it down to the nearest gas station (about 2 miles) and put two quarts of oil and some Techron fuel treatment in it. It seemed to help for about 30 seconds. Then began to shake bad again. I limped it the rest of the way home. As I drove it home, I noticed that the car seemed to have some hesitation/drag from idle up to about 2500-3000 RPM and then seemed to have a little more power. I didnít push it for fear of making it worse. As soon as I got home I started to check under the hood.
Pulled each spark plug, they all look good.

Pulled each plug wire while the motor was running and cylinder# 3 had no effect (the others nearly stalled the motor, so I know they are ok). I could hear the wire ticking, so I know it was firing.
I then pulled each injector plug one at a time, #3 had no effect (the other nearly stalled the motor). So I thought that it could possibly be the injector is clogged/bad. (as mentioned above, I had #4 injector go out about 10 months ago, so I thought this was a similar issue). I replaced the injector and the car was purring smoothly for about a minute, and then shaking again. Now it is not as constant, but more like an intermittent stutter.

I pulled the injector plug for #3 again and no effect on the motor. Still shakes. When I pull plugs on the other cylinders, they all make it worse. So it seems that everything is pointing to cylinder #3.
I cleaned the MAF with cleaner for good measure and checked the grounds on the chassis, which seems to be making good contact.

I am gonna try to get an Ohm meter and test the injector plug to make sure it has not gone bad. Does anyone know what the resistance value should be? Do I test while the motor is running or off?
Could it possibly be a bad/bent valve? I would think it would be more consistent is it was, because it starts up fine and idles high (approx 1200-1500) for about 30 seconds then gradually drops and starts to shake, then smooths out for about 10 seconds, then shakes, then smooths, etc...

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!!!!!!
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#96 Old 09-08-2010, 02:48 AM
 
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just had bthese problems tonight and I fixed them by tightening every single clamp on each tube. I'm not saying this will fix everyones car who has this problem but it's worth a try maybe.
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#97 Old 09-09-2010, 08:13 PM
 
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1. Injector/s
2.Timing / misfire
3.Bad Ground "wires open and touching the chassis somewhere"
4.Vac line loose or unpluged
5.Fuel pump going out
6.Maf
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#98 Old 10-25-2010, 11:03 AM
 
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I'm going to start checking things tonight, starting with bleeding the coolant system & plugs, but wanted to throw this on here to get some specific advice. I just picked up a 92 a few weeks ago that's been ghettorigged like you wouldn't believe. I'd love to limp this car along as my wife and I can't afford a third car for a couple months. It runs smooth when it's cold, but then the car boggs and misses below about 2200 rpm, then the missing stops and it just bogs up until 2800 rpm. anything higher than that and it runs great. smooth, plenty of power. I have bled the coolant system a few times already. Hopefully I get time on the car in the next few days, I'll update it if I do, but any specific advice is always appreciated.

Update #1
So my brother stole all my ratchet extensions and I couldn't check the plugs, but I did attempt to bleed it again. I can suck air out of the coolant system all day long with the bleeder, but it never goes away. The car is still overheating badly, and the bogging & hesitation issues are definitely temperature dependent. She runs like a top when she's cold...
Bought a new thermostat and will install friday, and I also noticed my car has no PCV valve. how much would this affect things? The dipshit I bought it from completely stripped the fitting for it too, so I'm going to have to get an adapter and re-tap the hole.

Last edited by GrendelGT; 10-26-2010 at 04:38 PM.
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#99 Old 10-27-2010, 08:06 PM
 
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i have an 89 fastback and i had big bog issues like it would barely pull its self and would only run with the distributor turned all the way clockwise i replaced the #3 injector and new timing chain guide and tensioner runs great
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#100 Old 11-01-2010, 03:53 PM
 
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What really confuses me is that the issue is temperature dependent...

If your car ain't broke, you are.
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