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sr20det fmic set up questions?

4K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  DemonSlayer 
#1 ·
So I just bought an sr swap package. It didn't come with the intercooler or piping. Ive been searching for hours and can really find anything. I also have to be honest I don't know a whole lot about turbo motors. So here are my questions.

Its my understanding that the stock sr intercooler has the recirculation valve on it? So if I run a fmic will I have to get a blow off valve as well? Will I have to recirculate it? Will I have to tune the car if I do run a bov? Cause I read that some peoples car ran rich after they install a bov.
I want to keep the sr stock with stock boost for now, would I just be better off getting a stock sidemount intercooler with the recirculation valve on it?

Also it seems like there is quite a few hoses and tubes running around the turbo which on my motor are cut idk where all these go. Could anone post pictures of all the routing?

I honestly didn't think I would have to ask these questions but I really couldn't find anything. I mean people do these swaps all the time. I just want to make sure im doing everthing right.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
You can still run an aftermarket FMIC and just recirculate the BOV that you choose to run. You might be able to find the factory side mount intercooler for cheap, but you would run a front mount the same way. As far as the hoses, my guess is that they are heater coolant hoses. It might help to post a picture of the hoses to help narrow it down for you. If you plan to use your heater you will also have to configure the hoses running to your heater core also.
 
#3 ·
Ill take some pictures soon. I gonna go with a front mount kit from cxracing. I'm on a budget and it comes with a bov. Will I have to run a boost controller and or a boost gauge? So many questions I wish there was a write up that takes you through every step on setting up a front mount from beginning to end with everything I need to know. Thanks again
 
#4 ·
You do not need to run a boost controller. As far a boost gauge, its great insurance to know what your vehicle is doing, rather than assuming. My best recommendation is to use the search function on this forum and even google to try and find answers. You may have to search through a few things before you find what you are looking for, but the more you dig the more knowledge you will gain.
 
#5 ·
I'm mid swap as well. I got the ISIS FMIC setup and it fit great. Didn't come with a BoV but was preflanged for HKS so I got a SSQV 4. Word of advice, do heater hoses before motor goes in car! I told my dad and he was all, "Bah, I'll just do it when its in the car". Ya, took us 30 minutes to drop the motor and 5 hours to do the heater hoses...... Post a picture of hoses and I can try to help with what I've found out so far, I've been searching a lot for the past while as this is my second swap. First I didn't complete before selling it off for school.

As far as vaccum is concerned, someone correct me if I'm wrong (Just trying to help), you run the top left nipple of the throttle body to the fuel preasure regulator. I have mine T'd which people say don't do but the instruction booklet for my greddy oled electronic boost controller say to T that vaccum line . Then the bottom nipple is capped. The top right nipple will go to my BoV, which also means I need a resizer as it's a rather large nipple and my BoV is a small nipple. The wastegate should get its signal from the hot pipe. Mine didn't have a nipple on it so I bought a tap for the silicone coupler that goes from turbo to hot pipe. In between the wastegate and that nipple will be the boost solonoid.

I'm unsure of where the brake booster goes and I have a weird T on my valve cover that I am utterly flummoxed on. I keep reading it is for the PCV valve, to hook it to pcv, to put it to intake, to put a little filter on it, I'm totally lost! Here is a pic of it, the other line goes the the catch can, Imgur

Also, hooking up the intercooler kit was fairly straight forward. The the top should have one bolt hole in the center, bottom will have 2 near the corner areas. The top goes into the bolt for the hood latch along with a spacer and the provided longer bolt. The bottom 2 had little L shaped brackets so they reach their holes. Then It's just a matter of hooking up the piping. The hot side already has a hole to go through, at least mine did, it should have been there factory? The cold side, we just kinda lined it up and used a 4 inch hole saw to drill through the battery tray. We got it perfect to! I recommend removing the battery tray before you put motor in, it becomes kinda useless I reckon. You have to push back the window washer fluid reservoir but that's rather easy. We also had to cut part of the bumper (the metal one, not the bumper cover) so that it would fit over the IC and not rub. Hardest part of the entire IC setup was getting my stupid BoV onto the thing. The stupid snap ring was a whore!!!

What are your plans for battery? I bought a remote terminal and am just gonna rig that up and put battery in the trunk.
 
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