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Old 07-21-2004, 01:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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need to remove exhaust manifold and turbo

I have to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold, so that I can replace the lines that cool the turbo and replace the seal that is blown out, and put in the greddy turbo extension pipe. Now will the FSM be able to tell me exactly how to do this or will i need other assitance?
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Old 07-21-2004, 02:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I havent looked at that fsm in a long time... but I would say take a look at it and if you feel that its missing something just ask and Im sure someone on here will be more than willing to help

If you have a hard time finding your anwser pm me. ALthough I dont have a turbo'd car ( Yet it will be all done after this winter ) I have been lucky enough to work on a couple of them and will help you out with whatever I can
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Old 07-21-2004, 02:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
 

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Hmm, the FSM will explain how to take off the exhaust header, yes. I don't think there's much to it. Get/download/steal the Australian FSM in English for sr20det installation/removal instructions.
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
 

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it won't say anything about a turbo as it didn't come on the 240's.
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Old 07-22-2004, 01:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AenjukuCar
I have to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold, so that I can replace the lines that cool the turbo and replace the seal that is blown out, and put in the greddy turbo extension pipe. Now will the FSM be able to tell me exactly how to do this or will i need other assitance?
Ok. There are 4 lines. Water inlet, Water drain *back to the block*, Oil inlet, and oil drain *back to the pan*. Which lines are u replacing? Also, what seal are you trying to replace? Let me know so I can better serve you.
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Old 07-22-2004, 08:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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download the s14 fsm sr20det from www.zilvia.net there shouldnt be any differences between it and the s13 i mean i know the turbos are different but i really doubt the procedure for taking them off is different.
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Old 07-23-2004, 01:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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- Remove hotpipe and intake tube
- Drain Coolant/Oil
- (3) screws for stock oil catch can
- (8) bolts on the manifold (there's no secrect, some of the bolts just take awhile to get off)
- (3) bolts on the o2 housing to downpipe
- (2) banjo bolts coolant in (one on the turbo, one on the side of block)
- (2) coolant out (one banjo bolt on the turbo, other end runs towards back of block)
- (2) banjo bolts oil in (one on the turbo, one on the side of block)
- (1) screw clamp for the oil return hose (short 4in piece)
- (2) screws turbo intake extension
- (3) screws for turbo j-pipe (up to the hot pipe)
(The last 2 are not neccessary but make pulling everything out much easier)

Manifold will lift out with turbo and o2 housiung attached. You can squeeze it out without removing the upper elbow coming off the water jacket (returning to the radiator). Then do what you have to and install in similar order. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN OFF THE OLD EXHAUST MANIOFOLD GASKET! One time I didn't completely clean off the old gasket towards the back of the block, and when I got everything bolted back together, I had a huge exhaust leak and off everything came.
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Old 07-23-2004, 06:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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yeah drain the coolant for sure. i didnt and pissed all over everything she did. is it really easier to get to the plumbing with the manifold off the block, what about breaking/bending the lines?
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Old 07-24-2004, 07:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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I usually remove the coolant lines completely from the block and the turbo, and remove the oil inlet from the block, but leave it attached to the turbo. I have not had any problems with breaking/bending lines. And you can always bend the lines back into place if you do. Also I just unbolt the manifold, I leave it on the studs, and in the car until all of the other lines are off and then lift it out as one big unit with the turbo and o2 housing.

2 MORE THINGS!!!
- PB Blast or liquid wrench the hell out of the manifold bolts well before you begin
- REPLACE the crush washers on the banjo bolts or they will leak. There are 2 per banjo bolt, so you will need a total of 12 new crush washers (3 lines x 2 bolts per line x 2 washers per bolt)
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