The FSM says to use a liquid gasket. I had the black and the red but people on many of the threads that I read up on were using the Permatex Ultra-Grey for this so that's what I chose.
Spark Plug Gaskets part#: 13271-52F00
I'm still not sure what to call this one but it's refered to as "Gasket-Rocker Cover" part#: 13270-53J13.
Like I said before, I had some trouble getting the valve cover to sit flush. Turns out one of the nuts on the oil tube, on the exhaust manifold side, was making contact with the valve cover so I took my dremel and made a cut to keep the tube from touching.
The gaskets will go here.
Take the ultra-grey...
and make a continuous bead on the valve cover and then place your gaskets.
Wipe off any excess liquid gasket, I think I over did it on a couple. With all your gaskets and o-rings on it's time to put the cover on.
The FSM states to put a 3mm bead of liquid gasket on the four half moon sections of the block. Remove any traces of old gasket first.
These two on the front...
and these two on the back.
Take the liquid gasket and make a continuous bead on the half moons...
and place the valve cover on...yeah, that fuel pressure guage is on the wrong line.
Get your hardware ready. Valve cover nuts.
Valve cover washers.
Place the rubber valve cover grommets on.
Place your valve cover washers on.
Place your valve cover nuts on. The valve cover nuts need to be tightened in a specific manner so refer to the FSM.
They get torqued to 2.9ft.lbs and then to 7.2ft.lbs.
Completed.
Next, your brackets for the coolant temp sensor harness and lines for the engine harness/throttlebody lines.
Place the brackets...
and tighten
OEM "skinny type" O2 sensor part#: 22690-50F00.
Old sensor vs. new sensor
The sensor goes here in the turbo outlet.
Remove the sensor bung from the adapter.
Place the sensor and screw on tight.
I used a 17mm wrench to tighten. You'll need a O2 sensor socket to tighten to spec with your torque wrench. It gets torqued to 30-44 ft.lbs.
Complete. I am officially done with the exhaust and the intake sides of the block...as far as I know.
as far as i can tell all you have left to do is put the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate on and you are ready to mount the tranny and drop this sexy engine in. just remember to take that outlet pipe off before you drop the engine in.
GREAT JOB DUDE definitely one of the best write ups on here.
as far as i can tell all you have left to do is put the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate on and you are ready to mount the tranny and drop this sexy engine in. just remember to take that outlet pipe off before you drop the engine in.
I took your advice and didn't tighten that elbow so I could take it off before the swap.
Got my wire harness back from Wiring Specialties. I did the headlights for the conversion and the digital climate but this was out of my league so I sent it off.
Lower engine harness.
Engine harness...everything appears intact like the diagram below.
Got a boost controller in today.
Greddy Profec B-Spec II
Now I just have to figure out the vac line setup.
ahh same one i got. the vacuum lines are pretty simple. just look at the manual for it and you'll see that its pretty simple. are you getting any gauges and stuff?
defi system is so hot but it costs so much, kinda like a stripper in vegas
hahaha shaggy how do you know how much a stripper costs in vegas? jk
yea they are expensive. but you can find used ones on forums. i did that and payed a decent amount for a defi system with boost gauge and ext. temp gauge.
I looked up those Defi gauges on YouTube...freakin' awesome but I'm going with the old fashioned Autometer gauges.....Wish I knew how much a stripper costs in Vegas...or anywhere for that matter!
240SXforums.com is in no way affiliated with Nissan Motors Co, Ltd.
All Trademarks are property of their respective owners. 240SXforums.com is an enthusiast community for the Nissan 240SX (Silvia).
Objective "D" Myspace
jk
