im running into the same problem as you. i need a power steering bracket too. SH*T SUCKS BALLS. oh well just gotta be patient. if you can let me know if you find somebody that has a few of those hard to find brackets, and i'll also keep a look out for you.
but love what you are doing with the project so far. the engine looks good. keep up the good work.
im running into the same problem as you. i need a power steering bracket too. SH*T SUCKS BALLS. oh well just gotta be patient. if you can let me know if you find somebody that has a few of those hard to find brackets, and i'll also keep a look out for you.
but love what you are doing with the project so far. the engine looks good. keep up the good work.
I thought about painting mine black and now that I see yours I wish I had...sweet! I've been asking around for a non-HICAS bracket with no bites so far but I did find out that you can get a brand new one from West Covina for $50. It's steep but if I can't find one I'm gonna go that route. http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...product_id=342
I thought about painting mine black and now that I see yours I wish I had...sweet! I've been asking around for a non-HICAS bracket with no bites so far but I did find out that you can get a brand new one from West Covina for $50. It's steep but if I can't find one I'm gonna go that route. http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...product_id=342
honestly i got the idea from you . i really liked the job that you did with yours by painting it silver. i was thinking about doing silver too but i didnt wanna fully copy you hahaha . but i really think that your silver and some of the parts that you painted black will look sexy in the car. that doesnt seem like a bad price, i've been asking around also ever since i found out that i will need a different one too (which was around the time you find out you need another too) but found nothing. i called JGS Customs and asked them for it and i also asked for the metal pipes that are under the intake manifold that wrap around the head (mine are cut), and they wanted 100 bucks for both of them. so i told them i call them later, but i really need one so i can finish putting the engine together. any updates on your build? havent seen any in a while. well good luck with everything.
honestly i got the idea from you . i really liked the job that you did with yours by painting it silver. i was thinking about doing silver too but i didnt wanna fully copy you hahaha . but i really think that your silver and some of the parts that you painted black will look sexy in the car. that doesnt seem like a bad price, i've been asking around also ever since i found out that i will need a different one too (which was around the time you find out you need another too) but found nothing. i called JGS Customs and asked them for it and i also asked for the metal pipes that are under the intake manifold that wrap around the head (mine are cut), and they wanted 100 bucks for both of them. so i told them i call them later, but i really need one so i can finish putting the engine together. any updates on your build? havent seen any in a while. well good luck with everything.
If you haven't done so already then remove the waterpump pulley to gain access to the pump bolts.
Probably nothing wrong with the old pump but I wanted to replace it with a new one for piece of mind.
Part number#: 21010-52F01
I got some new hardware as well.
Waterpump studs Part#: 08226-61610
Waterpump bolts Part#: 08120-8251E
Use a 12mm socket to remove the seven waterpump bolts.
The old gasket is holding steady so use a mallet or just man up and bust the waterpump loose.
Got it!
Old pump vs. new pump.
Take a razorblade and remove the old gasket.
Put the new waterpump studs in the pump, they just screw right on.
It's ready for the install now.
Put a continous bead of liquid gasket around the waterpump and insert it back into the block.
Put your waterpump bolts back in and torque them to 12-15ft.lbs.
I got a aftermarket waterpump pulley. Torque the pulley nuts to 4.6-6.1ft.lbs.
And you are finished.
Lower radiator hose...forgot the part#?????
Upper radiator hose. Part#: 21501-85F01
Upper radiator hose goes on the water outlet here, don't forget your hose clamps.
Remove the old cut up hoses...
...and the lower radiator hose goes on the water outlet.
Finished.
Tools needed:
Screwdriver
10mm small head wrench...you need a small headed wrench to get to the bolt head over the hump of the speed sensor.
When you do the swap you have to swap the speed sensors out. If I'm not mistaken the US sensor reads mph while the JDM unit reads kph or m or somethin'!
Just bust the screw on the speed sensor loose with a wrench and remove it.
The KA speed sensor vs. the SR speed sensor...they look identical.
Insert the KA speed sensor, insert the bolt, screw it in and you're done!
When I striped the block down I also broke the intake manifold down into it's separate pieces so I could replace all the gaskets.
First off, I lost the pics I took when I put the throttlebody gasket back on but the part number for the throttlebody gasket is 16175-53J00.
Next, I replaced the IACV gasket.
Part#: 23785-50F00
Use a razorblade to remove the old gasket.
Mount the IACV onto the intake collector and torque the bolts to 6.2-8ft.lbs.
Intake collector gasket.
Part#: 14032-52F00
Place the intake collector gasket on the intake collector...
and then mount the intake runner and the intake collector together. Torque the intake bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. Also take the IACV hose and reconnect it while you're at it.
Put a new intake manifold gasket on and then mount the intake manifold back on.
Torque the manifold bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. and another one bites the dust.
This sensor was fine when I got the motor...don't ask me how it got busted because I don't want to talk about it.
I got another CAS from a forum member and at a great price too.
If you look on your crank pulley you will see a group of little notches on one side of it, these are the timing marks. Use the 27mm socket and wrench to move your crank pulley to the notch that is second from the left, this is TDC or top dead center.
You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts and the valve cover so you can see where the timing marks are on the crank angle sensor.
If you look closely on the CAS you will see a notch on the bottom and above that notch on the shaft you will see two circles, one on the top and one on the bottom. These are the marks that you will use to set the timing to TDC later.
Use a 12mm socket or a screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the CAS in the block.
Take a moment to look at where the timing marks on the CAS are at TDC. The second circle or timing mark on the shaft of the CAS is aligned perfectly with the notch on the lower part of the CAS. This is how I want the new CAS positioned.
Grab the CAS and tug on it until you pop it out.
The new and the old. Dip the replacement CAS in some oil before you insert it back into the block.
Now for insertion. This is what has to happen, you line up the first circle on the shaft of the CAS with the notch below it and when you insert back into the block the gears will turn slightly causing the second circle or timing mark to become aligned with the notch putting you at TDC.
I lined the first timing mark up, inserted it and it lined up perfectly with the second timing mark.
Hopefully I won't have to adjust timing when I start the engine up (that is if it's a good engine...man I hate to think that I could be doing all this for nothing) and it'll fire up the first time.
As far as the hoses go I know that I have way too much hose on there and that I have pretty much no idea where most go. I have been looking at pics of engines online and looking through my magazines and FSM to figure it out but while we are on the subject I have more hose questions.
A forum member pointed out to me that the hose on the sensor housing goes to the hose near the TPS.
I know that the IACV hose goes here on the big outlet on the IACV and connects to the small port on the coldpipe....
here!
I need to know where these two hoses on the water and coolant lines go to?
I also need to know where the hoses for the two small outlets on the side of the IACV go?
The hose from this outlet goes to one side of the T on the valve cover.
The bigger hose on the top of the throttle body goes accross the front of the engine over to the intake correct? Where does the small hose on the throttlebody go. I was researching and I think it has something to do with boost.
There is a small outlet on the lower left of the throttlebody that bends down...where does the hose on this outlet go or come from?
the small hose on the top goes to the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail i believe, good look on the CAS i was trying to figure out which mark you lined up first just hadn't looked into it yet.
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tomei 260 procams solid lifters Built up head 2871r .86ar in the works should be fun when im done
Turbo Oil Return Line Part#: 15198-69F00.
Strange, the old line is longer than the new line?????
Remove the old line....
replace with the new and don't forget about the hardware.
Oil Dipstick
Not really a part that screams to be replaced.
Oil Dipstick Part#: 11140-52F00.
I decided to replace my fuel injector seals while I had the fuel rail off.
Tools needed:
Phillipshead screwdriver
Prybar
Small flathead screwdriver
Small hammer
Sock
If you need to remove your fuel rail all you need is a 13mm socket for the four bolts on the curve of the intake manifold runners.
Fuel rail.
Before you can get to the injectors you need a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the injector caps.
Besides replacing the injector seals I also have a busted injector that needs to go as well.
Removing the fuel injectors was not as easy as I thought it would be. I tried to twist them out with my fingers...not gonna happen unless you got a big "S" on your chest. What did work for me was a medium sized prybar. I wedged the prybar under the tip where the injector harness is and popped it right out, you'll hear a loud pop when the seal is broken. You might want to place something small and soft in between the injector and the prybar so you won't damage the injector.
Can't use this, nothing for the harness to plug into.
Use a small flathead screwdriver to pull the injector seals off the injector. There is a small injector seal on the lower portion and a larger one on the top.
When I received the engine I had already decided to replace the fuel rail but after getting a look at this one I had second thoughts. It wasn't damaged or bent in any way at all so I decided to clean it up and use it.
My fuel rail was pretty filthy...
but a scrubbing session with some Mean Green really got the luster back.
Just like nearly new.
Also cleaned up the fuel pressure regulator. Just reattach it to the fuel rail with a phillipshead screwdriver.
I can use that $45 for something else.
Now back to the injectors.
Upper injector seal Part#: 16618-10V05.
Lower injector seal Part#: 16618-53J00.
Put the new seals back on the injectors.
The one I replaced has a different tip than the others...hmm.
Insert the injector back into the fuel rail. There will be a gap and you will not be able to force them back in with your hands so it's time to improvise.
I used a small hammer to seat the injectors back into the fuel rail. Just place the flat part of the hammer on the top of the injector...
place the rail on the ground put your wieght into it and slowly push the injector down into the rail. Again use something soft in between the hammer and the injector as well as something soft in between the fuel rail and the ground to keep the bottom plastic caps on the injectors from making contact and getting busted.
Seated injector.
Now you have to replace the injector caps.
Screw the caps back on with a phillips head screwdriver and torque to 2.2-2.8ft.lbs.
Finished.
I dropped an injector and busted the little yellow cap on the bottom so I need to replace that before I can put this rail back on the manifold...doe!!!
I wanted to install a oil filter sandwich plate so I can install oil pressure and oil temperature guages. This plate has two ports on it to make adding the guages easy...or so I thought.
Tools needed:
Oil Filter Pliers
Rags
I got a stainless steel oil filter sandwich plate with three ports two of which were plugged and two different fittings....
and a gasket on the backside.
The first thing to do is to remove the old oil filter.
You need a set of oil filter pliers.
My oil filter pliers are busted so I need a screwdriver in there to keep 'em from sliding out of grip...ghetto style FTW!!!!
Get the filter off and have a rag ready for the runoff.
Clean the area up and get the oil filter sandwich plate ready.
Now this is where I ran into the problem.
My plate will not fit. There doesn't seem to be enough thread on the fittings to mount snuggly against the block...WTF!!!
Nissan SR20DET oil filter Part#: 15208-53J00. I was gonna go with a fancy smancy oil filter but then I said just keep it simple and go OEM.
Installed, but without the oil filter sandwich plate. Weeks later and I still have no idea why that thing won't fit. Anyone???
hahaha. did you ever find a power steering bracket? i found one on nicoclub.com only problem i have is that the KA power steering pump is hitting some of the bracket. look on the last page of my build and you'll see what im talkin about.
hahaha. did you ever find a power steering bracket? i found one on nicoclub.com only problem i have is that the KA power steering pump is hitting some of the bracket. look on the last page of my build and you'll see what im talkin about.
I finally found a guy on freshalloy that's going to sell me a bracket and I was looking at your thread and saw the problem that you ran into and was completing just getting his whole setup because he said he would sell me the SR non-HICAS pump if I needed it too. It'll be interesting to see how you remedy that situation and great build thread by the way...those parts you just got are hot!
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. i really liked the job that you did with yours by painting it silver. i was thinking about doing silver too but i didnt wanna fully copy you hahaha 
. but i really think that your silver and some of the parts that you painted black will look sexy in the car. that doesnt seem like a bad price, i've been asking around also ever since i found out that i will need a different one too (which was around the time you find out you need another too) but found nothing. i called JGS Customs and asked them for it and i also asked for the metal pipes that are under the intake manifold that wrap around the head (mine are cut), and they wanted 100 bucks for both of them. so i told them i call them later, but i really need one so i can finish putting the engine together. any updates on your build? havent seen any in a while. well good luck with everything.
