I finally found a guy on freshalloy that's going to sell me a bracket and I was looking at your thread and saw the problem that you ran into and was completing just getting his whole setup because he said he would sell me the SR non-HICAS pump if I needed it too. It'll be interesting to see how you remedy that situation and great build thread by the way...those parts you just got are hot!
ahhh nice. i think what imma do is just cut some of that bracket off and it should work fine. im trying to figure out whats wrong with the bracket i got. the non-hicas brackets should work with the ka pump. but for some reason this bracket isnt working with it. oh and thanks for the parts comment. i got some more pics with the radiator in now, also got a turbo time. now im just waiting to get my coolant lines and the engine should be going in.
So I send my old valve cover washers to Bonehead Performance for a powdercoating and I get them back today and the Post Office screws me. The package is ripped and I'm missing five of the twelve valve cover washers....WTF!!! They, the Postal Office, include some letter about how sorry they are for the inconvenience but no mention whatsoever about resolving the problem.
Yea, they screwed me!!! Bonehead Performance did an excellent job powdercoating them by the way!
nice dude. that's the way to clean up and prep an engine. beats the hell outa the people who just throw it in straight off the skid. plus u probably learned a thing or two too haha.
__________________
VZ Research Co-owner/Founder
yes, i drive a 2-tone primer S13... still rockin the JDM fogs
So I send my old valve cover washers to Bonehead Performance for a powdercoating and I get them back today and the Post Office screws me. The package is ripped and I'm missing five of the twelve valve cover washers....WTF!!! They, the Postal Office, include some letter about how sorry they are for the inconvenience but no mention whatsoever about resolving the problem.
Yea, they screwed me!!! Bonehead Performance did an excellent job powdercoating them by the way!
damn that freaking blows dude. sorry to hear that. u gonna contact them and tell them to buy you some new ones?
I replaced the coolant temp sensor and guage sensors today.
Tools needed:
12mm wrench
19mm wrench
Teflon tape
The coolant temp sensor and the coolant guage sensor.
On the KA24DE engine you could get these sensors off without taking off the intake manifold but on the SR the manifold blocks you so it had to come off.
Use a 19mm wrench to remove the coolant temp sensor.
Coolant temperature sensor, this sends the signal to your ECU.
Use a 12mm wrench to remove the coolant guage sensor...yeah I'm rockin' the Wal-Mart wrenches.
Coolant guage sensor, this sends the signal to the temperature guage on your guage cluster.
Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new units and....
it's time to install them.
The new coolant guage sensor.
The new coolant temp sensor.
Finished!
CORRECTION!!!! You don't need to remove the intake manifold to get to those temp sensors, just get deepwell sockets!!!
I got a set of aftermarket pullies and needed to put the alternator pulley on before I installed the alternator back on the block. The problem here is that the pulley spins when you touch it so I needed to find a way to stop it from spinning so I could take the alternator pulley nut off.
I played around with a few ideas and came up with this one. I got my oil filter pliers out.
The pulley is close to the same size in width as a oil filter so I put the alternator on the ground, placed the oil filter pliers around it with my left foot on the handles to hold it and used the 23mm socket and breaker bar to bust the alternator nut loose.
Alternator nut.
The OEM pulley and washer.
Alternator.
Take the alternator bracket and use a 14mm socket with an extension to bolt the three alternator bolts into the block here.
There's two 12mm bolts on the bottom of the alternator bracket here.
The alternator with bolts both top and bottom.
The extra long bolt on the bottom of the picture above goes through the bottom of the alternator and bracket. The other bolts are for your ground wires of course.
The bolts on the top of the pic from earlier go through the top of the alternator and bracket in a L formation.
I installed and torqued the new pulley back on the alternator in the same fashion that I took off the OEM pulley so I just took pics of the uninstalled pulley just to show how it goes back on for reference.
Greddy alternator pulley with spacer and alternator nut.
Alternator.
Unlike the OEM pulley that had a washer or spacer right under the alternator nut, the Greddy pulley comes with a spacer that goes on first. I read that it's there to keep the pulley from bottoming out or something.
The pulley goes on next.
You can see the spacer here, I haven't torqued them down yet though.
Finally the alternator nut, I couldn't find torque specs for this so anyone????
Finished!
For sometime I couldn't figure or find out where the hoses for the coolant line, water line, IACV and throttlebody go but now I know thanks to some help from the forum.
It was mainly these two off the coolant and water lines...
and this port off the water line.
I started with the port coming off the water line.
Cut the hose and it connects to the small port on the back of the IACV that points straight down....
like so. Somebody who's done this tell me if this is okay. I didn't want to cut the hose too short to keep it kink free.
The port coming off the coolant line goes to the other small port on the back of the IACV that points off to the side.
In order to keep this kink free as well I let it loop around slightly like so...
until it connects.
Next there was this one on the water line towards the sensor housing.
It connects to the port on the bottom left of the throttlebody, you know the one that points downward.
Then there is this one on the bottom right of the throttlebody.
It connects here to the port on the sensor housing...
like so.
And so.
Finally there's the smaller hose that goes from the port on the bottom of the fuel regulator here...
to here.
Like so and done. Probably have to make some changes later with the boost controller and whatnot.
During the replacement of my fuel injector seals I accidently dropped an injector and cracked the little yellow cap on the tip of the injector. So for fun I took an injector off my KA to see if it would fit the SR injector.
Sure enough, it did fit...problem solved!
I put the injector in the rail with the rest.
Now I was ready to put the fuel rail back on the intake manifold. To do that there are four bolts, washers and insulators for mounting.
The rubber insolators go on first in between the intake manifold and the fuel rail, then the washer goes on the rail and the bolt goes in after that. The rail bolts get torqued to 15-20ft.lbs.
Next, the small hose on the top of the intake manifold needs to be connected to the fuel rail.
Finished.
Turns out I had the hoses on the IACV routed backward and they were far too long...
so I trimmed the hoses and rerouted them back onto the IACV like so.
I also replaced my chipped up CAS cover while I was at it.
Old cover.
Old vs. new.
New cover.
I was gonna post about that, but you beat me to it.
Stupid finals. I wanna work on my car!
Yeah, I figured you'd set me straight if those hoses were wrong which they were.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenThrottle
YOU SIR ARE A GENIUS. thanks for figuring this out because i now how something to go by. thanks and the engine is looking great. almost finished?
Thanks! I need to put the intake manifold support brackets back on and I'm done with the intake side of the engine. As far as the exhaust side goes, I need a manifold, elbow and turbo lines and that will complete that side as well and I haven't even gotten to the oilpan or decided whether or not to attempt the headgasket so still a ways yet.
I don't know if anyone's mentioned it yet, but its probably a good idea to replace your throwout bearing now too. It's cheap ($20-30)and it's a lot easier to do with the engine and tranny already out.
Thanks! I need to put the intake manifold support brackets back on and I'm done with the intake side of the engine. As far as the exhaust side goes, I need a manifold, elbow and turbo lines and that will complete that side as well and I haven't even gotten to the oilpan or decided whether or not to attempt the headgasket so still a ways yet.
The megan manifolds are not bad. i originally wanted to go with a peak performance but the guy @ heavythrottle said they are the same just different price. i have read stories about the megans cracking but honestly once full build time comes around the megan should be replaced anyways. but for the time being the megan will do just fine IMO. plus for a 169.99 its not bad at all. i also bought their turbo elbow and the flex downpipe, and for the price they are not bad either. now if you have money laying around (which i don't) then i would go with some more expensive units like tomei or maybe hks.
T25 OEM S13 SR20DET turbo
I removed the manifold, outlet, the heat shields and cleaned it up a bit.
The 3-bolt turbo gasket. This is what they put it in but that's not the correct part number....anyone?
The 2-bolt turbo gasket part #:14465-54C00.
Take the 10mm socket and remove the three bolts here.
Off.
Remove two bolts here with the 12mm socket.
Off.
Take the gasket...
place it on...
place the bolts and two washers back and torque it to 12-15ft.lbs.
The 3-bolt is next.
Place it.
Replace the two long bolts and the one short bolt and their washers and torque them all to 4.6-6.1ft.lbs.
I also got the other gaskets on standby for when I get a turbo manifold and elbow.
Turbo manifold inlet gasket part #:14415-17M00.
Turbo outlet gasket part #:14445-26E00.
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