haha we must have some kind of psychic connection...
I literally JUST did the exact same procedure as you, and ended up in the same place! The stupid pulley and the tensioner bracket don't line up! I think i'm going to have to get a custom bracket waterjet cut, and make some kind of spacer to go between the new bracket and the tensioner U-bracket.
when i had my KA pump on the sr20 brackets it didnt fit. bottom bolt kept hitting the bracket, i didnt have the issue that you are having. so when i got a used sr20 pump with the brackets it worked fine. so i dunno how true it is about the ka pumps fitting on the sr20 brackets but getting the original pump would probably be the best bet unless you want to go with a custom bracket.
when i had my KA pump on the sr20 brackets it didnt fit. bottom bolt kept hitting the bracket, i didnt have the issue that you are having. so when i got a used sr20 pump with the brackets it worked fine. so i dunno how true it is about the ka pumps fitting on the sr20 brackets but getting the original pump would probably be the best bet unless you want to go with a custom bracket.
When I ran into problems I broke out those pics that you took of your P/S setup, they were very helpful by the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by minime
Use the pump that came with the motor or make your own bracket. .
I gonna look at this thing again and see how I could modify it(Rexbo will beat me to it)but at the same time I've got some feelers out there for a non-HICAS SR pump. If all else fails then I'll use that HICAS pump that I have.
Forgot to post this earlier...I was going to replace the knock sensor with a new one but I decided to just stick with the old one.
If you took everything loose like I did then put the knock sensor and harness back together and mount it back on the block.
Put the harness back on...
and don't forget about the little clip.
The knock sensor mounts here under the intake manifold.
Done.
I received my gaskets and seals today from Courtesy Nissan.
Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket extension
12mm socket
Seal puller
Seal driver
I started with the front transmission cover gasket. I was planning to swap out the front transmission seals also but I couldn't see any way to easily remove these seals without completely dissassembling the transmission and removing the shaft in order to gain access to them.
The seals under the front cover appear to be in perfect condition anyway so I just decided to roll the hard six and skip replacing them.
Front transmission cover gasket. Part#:32112-08U01
I removed the front cover earlier and as you can see it was quite filthy, covered in grease.
I got some Mean Green and a scrub brush, cleaned it up and regreased it. I hate handling dirty parts.
Start by taking the O-ring and putting it in place.
It will go here.
Take the O-ring...
and place it on the seal, it will stay in place when you put the front cover on.
Take a 12mm socket and replace the 5 bolts on the front cover. Torque them to 12-15ft.lbs.
Done.
Next, I replaced the gearbox gasket. Part#: 32516-03U11.
I pulled the old gasket off.
Use a razorblade to remove all traces of the old gasket.
Take the new gasket...
and place it on the underside of the gearbox cover...
and place it on the transmission.
Use a 12mm socket to replace the six bolts. Tighten them in a similar fashion to the valve cover bolts and torque to 10-13ft.lbs.
I also replaced the transmission rear seal.
Transmission rear seal. Part#: 32136-U0100.
Seal puller. Wish I had this when I did the front main oil seal.
Seal driver kit. This too!
Take your seal puller or you could use a prybar or flathead screwdriver and place it around the inside of the seal.
Like so.
Pull the old seal out.
Clean the area.
New seal and the old seal.
Lubed up the new seal with some gear oil and place it.
This is where your seal driver kit comes into play. I couldn't use it the regular way because the shaft was in the way...
so I took the old seal and placed it on top of the new seal.
I took some of the drivers in the driver kit and placed them on top of the old seal and pushed down to seat the new tranny seal in.
Finished.
A transmission crossmember was the only thing my engine set was missing so I took the one off my KA, cleaned and prepped it.
Nismo transmission mount. Part#:11320-RS541.
I'm still not sure what this bracket is for but I think it's for the exhaust. I can't remember what I unbolted from this when I pulled my KA.
Bolt it back on with two nuts. Torque to 9-12ft.lbs. If you need replacements you can use M8-1,25. You can also use these for the engine mount heat shields.
Take that...
and bolt it to the transmission crossmember. Torque them to 16-21ft.lbs.
Next you'll need these bolts to mount the crossmember to the transmission, these gold bolts with the rectangular head. If you need replacements the part number is 11390-S13002. The nuts I just got at the parts store M10-1,25. You can also use them for the engine mounts.
Take the crossmember bolts and place them here.
Put the crossmember into place...
thread the nuts and torque to 16-21ft.lbs.
Complete!
When I removed the clutch fork and throwout bearing the OEM pivot ball came apart so I decided to replace it with a new unit.
Nismo clutch pivot ball. Part#:30537-RS540.
OEM clutch pivot vs. Nismo clutch pivot. My stock unit just split in two as you can see here.
Take the new pivot...
and thread it in.
Use the 17mm socket to tighten it.
Torque it to 14-25ft.lbs. and you're done.
While I was at it I played around with putting my clutch fork and throwout bearing back together. I couldn't exactly remember how everything fit together.
Clutch fork, throwout bearing, retainer spring and holder spring.
Take the clutch fork and the retainer spring...
insert the tip like so in the slot on the clutch fork...
and the ends into the slits on the side of the clutch fork.
Take the throwout bearing/release bearing and insert the holder spring in the sides.
Slide the fork onto the throwout/release bearing and this is how it is connected.
Of course it will be different when you actually put it on the tranny.
The retainer spring will be around the ball of the pivot ball...
and the end of the clutch fork goes through the rubber boot on the side of the transmission and makes contact with the clutch slave cylinder.
Went to the junkyard today to help a friend pull the head off a 1st gen Integra and while we were at it I noticed a purple 2nd gen Altima sitting a couple of feet away. When we were done I went over and popped the hood, the radiator was gone but what did I find just sitting in the bay....
this set of Altima fans in great condition.
I'm not sure if this is the set that everyone uses but we tested them at the junkyard, they both run and I only paid $40 for them so if this is the correct set then I came out on top. If these are the right fans I'm gonna clean them up and sell the Permacool.
sorry to jack your thread positron. i found a pair of these in a local junkyard the other day and was curious if someone could explain how to wire these in.
__________________
tomei 260 procams solid lifters Built up head 2871r .86ar in the works should be fun when im done
wow man... almost there..... shoud be done by 2064..... lol..... Hurry up so I can see your leaks!! I'm old ya know and I'm not going to live forever...
wow man... almost there..... shoud be done by 2064..... lol..... Hurry up so I can see your leaks!! I'm old ya know and I'm not going to live forever...
I got some stainless steel turbo lines in to replace the stock hardlines with.
Tools needed:
Socket wrench
15mm deepwell socket
18mm socket
19mm deepwell socket
12mm line wrench
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
Hammer
T25 Turbo
Circuit Sports Stainless Steel Turbo Lines
The top left line is the water inlet line, the top right line is the water return line and the bottom line is the oil inlet line.
I started with the oil inlet line.
Use a 18mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the banjo bolt for the oil inlet line.
After I busted the banjo bolt loose I just used a socket wrench to remove the banjo from the turbo.
Off. You'll notice that there are two washers on either side of the banjo, I have a question about that later.
Flip the turbo over to move to the next set of lines. You'll need a line wrench to get the water return line off but you have to get the water inlet line off first to get to it.
Use the same 18mm socket to remove the banjo bolt on the water inlet line.
Off.
Line wrench.
I took a line wrench for the water return line...
placed it around the line like so...
and since I couldn't crank it off by hand I used a hammer to tap it one time to bust it loose.
Like so.
Lines off next to their counterparts.
Oil inlet lines.
Water inlet lines.
Water return lines.
I started with the water return line.
I don't know if this is the way to do this but it seemed easier to get these lines on by taking the fittings off the line...
threading them in the turbo by hand...
and using a socket to tighten them. I used a 15mm deepwell socket here so it would fit over the fitting. The fitting gets torqued to 14-23ft.lbs.
I placed the line on the fitting...
and used a 13mm wrench to tighten the line onto the fitting.
Water return line complete.
Next, I moved on to the water inlet line.
I took the fitting off.
I threaded the fitting in by hand.
I used a 19mm deepwell socket to tighten it, it also gets torqued to 14-23ft.lbs.
Place the line on and use a 19mm wrench to tighten it down.
Finally, I moved to the oil inlet line.
Remove the fitting...
Place it on like so and use a 19mm deepwell socket to tighten and torque to 14-23ft.lbs.
Place the line on and use a 19mm wrench to tighten.
Complete!
TO BE CONTINUED........
QUESTION TIME
The stainless steel lines have a fitting that come with only one washer on one side of the fitting while the OEM banjo bolts have two washers on either sides so should I use one of the banjo bolt washers so that the new lines have washers on both sides when they get bolted to the turbo?????
OEM magnetic drain plug part#:32103-U840A
It's basically serves the same purpose as a magnetic oil drain plug by collecting any metal particles in your transmission fluid.
Get access to the tranny drain plug on the bottom of the transmission.
Use a socket extension with a 3/8 adapter on it...
to remove the drain plug.
New plug vs. old plug.
Keep a rag or paper towel handy to wipe off any excess fluid still in the transmission that may leak out after you remove the drain plug.
Place the new plug in.
Tighten and torque to 18-25ft.lbs.
"Something something something darkside....something something something complete!!!!"
There are quite a few brands of motor mounts for the 240SX...
I went with the NISMO motor mounts.
Right mount part#:11210-RS540
Left mount part#:11220-RS540
Don't forget your heatshields.
Take the heatshield...
and place it on the mount like so.
Use a 13mm socket to tighten and torque it to 16-21ft.lbs. If you need replacement nuts for the heatshields you can use M8-1,25 and for the the top and bottom motor mount nuts you can use M10-1,25. Don't put the motor mount nut on yet, that's just for show, you can't put the mount on the brackets with the nut on them.
The mounts are clearly marked with a "L" for left and a "R" for right.
But if for some reason yours aren't, the gold one goes on the passenger side while the black one goes on the drivers side.
Take your mount...
and place it on the motor mount bracket.
You'll need a deepwell 14mm socket here to tighten the mount to the bracket and torque to 32-41ft.lbs. You can also use a 14mm wrench to tighten them if need be because it gets kind of cramped on the intake side. You may need to remove that intake manifold bracket if it gets in your way when you go to torque this nut down.
Finished on the intake side...
and the exhaust side as well.
You can go ahead and place another M10-1,25 nut on the bottom of your mounts for the install but remember to remove it when it comes time to drop the motor in or you might have a bad day. When you do drop the motor in the bay these get torqued to 51-58ft.lbs.
nice write up man. Thanks for all of the part numbers will def save me time in the future. But on another note
I just want to tell you that its great to be thourough if your over anal about your car like I used to be you'll never be happy with an s13 cause shit always breaks
__________________ My s13 thread
sdtouge: then i triiped running on the beach
sdtouge: small shell my nipple landed on
sdtouge: and cut some off
I went back and re-did my turbo lines based on some good information from a forum member and a mechanic.
Before, I had decided to use the supplied washers and get an extra set from the parts store so I could have crush washers on both sides of the lines but I found out some useful information.
"The crush washer is used to seal the fittings going into the turbo center section. The lines all have AN fittings on their ends, which seal on the 37* flare, so you don't need to put the washers between the fittings and the lines. Put them between the fittings and the turbo."
This made since as I was wondering why they would only supply half of the washers that you would need to put these lines on, turns out they do supply the right amount of washers you just need to know where to use them.
I hadn't pad attention earlier but they even provide two new washers for the water inlet line.
You should apply some teflon tape to the fitting to turbo side and I learned something new from a mechanic about applying teflon tape that I didn't know...
you apply the teflon tape in the opposite direction of the way that the bolt/fitting is going to be threaded...you learn something new everyday!
Tighten and re-torque the fittings down and you are done. Also, no crush washer is needed on the smaller water inlet to turbo fitting because it's has a AN fitting on that end as well.
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Lithium grease....
Yeah, it is taking longer that I planned.
