My S13 SR20DET Prep - Page 9

positron · 08-24-2008, 04:57 PM

Well, that missing hardware that was supposed to come with my turbo elbow never showed up so I just emailed the seller and said send me $15 and I'll buy the studs myself so I finally got a set.

Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket extension
12mm deepwell socket
12mm wrench
Threadlocker

I already have gaskets and nuts so I only needed the studs anyway.

Circuit sports studs thread size M8x???MM.

OEM T25 Turbo. There are two studs already on the outlet so I need to place three for a total of five.

Probably not going to help much but I put a little thread locker on the studs before seating them.

Place them in the turbo and put a couple of washers on the stud...

to keep the nut that you use to seat them from bottoming out and getting stuck on the stud...

like this. I've seated plenty of studs so I should have known this, just impatient and not paying attention to what I was doing is all.

Use a 12mm wrench to seat the studs.
Seat all three studs into the turbo then move to the next step.

T25 OEM metal outlet gasket part#: 14445-26E00.

Take the gasket...

place it on the turbo.

Take your elbow...

place it on the turbo.

Put the nuts on. You can use M8x1,25 from the parts store. I had to use a wrench here because the O2 sensor port gets in the way of a socket wrench.

Use a 12mm socket, tighten and torque to 16-23ft.lbs.

Here is the O2 sensor port. As you know by now, the blacktop and redtop engines have two different O2 sensors. The blacktops have a "fat" sensor while the redtops have a "skinny" sensor.

From what I've seen all the aftermarket elbows have a fat O2 sensor outlet so if you have a redtop, like me, then you will need a O2 sensor adapter to accomodate your "skinny" sensor.

This is a O2 sensor adapter. It will screw into the "fat" O2 sensor bung and allow you to screw the "skinny" sensor into that.

Place it in like so.

Use a 22mm socket to tighten it, I don't have torque specs on this.

You unscrew the port...

this is my old O2 sensor but you get the idea what has to happen here.

Once I get a new sensor then I'll be done with this side of the engine.

TO BE CONTINUED...

minime · 08-24-2008, 05:16 PM

There are only supposed to be two studs, the rest are nuts......

s13envy · 08-25-2008, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by minime

There are only supposed to be two studs, the rest are nuts......

what does it actually matter though?

OpenThrottle · 08-25-2008, 08:59 AM

i dont know how it is on an s13 but i know when i had my turbo outlet pipe on the turbo and then tried to drop it in the engine bay in my s14 i couldnt do it. the steering pipe thing-a-ma-jigger got in the way. so i had to remove the outlet pipe and then drop in the exhaust manifold and turbo. then put the outlet pipe on. so you might want to research that positron.

S13X · 08-25-2008, 01:28 PM

yep hits the steering collum so no point in putting it on untill its in the bay.

minime · 08-25-2008, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13envy

what does it actually matter though?

It would be a lot easier to put on the elbow with the turbo attached to the engine while it is in the car. In fact, it might be impossible with 5 studs to get the elbow on with everything bolted up although I'm uncertain as I've never seen anyone put 5 studs on their turbo before.

OpenThrottle · 08-25-2008, 06:04 PM

i had all 5 on mine. whenever i tried to put my exhaust manifold (it had the turbo attached and the elbow) i was not able to do it since it hit the steering column.

sr20ohio · 08-25-2008, 08:49 PM

you can you just have to loosen and kinda jimmy the dipstick tube over ive done it twice in the last 2 months but do what you want

positron · 08-26-2008, 02:16 PM

I didn't realize that so thanks for the heads up!

positron · 08-26-2008, 02:20 PM

I'm rethinking my clutch decision, I need opinions on the best clutch for a stock SR. All I want to achieve is the 205hp that the manual promises me and I'm done. Stage 1 or a OEM equivalent?

OpenThrottle · 08-26-2008, 03:08 PM

i would go with stage 1. at least you'll get some good grip with that amount of horsepower. i mean you could go with oem and maybe save some money (i dont know if there is that big of a price different) but i would go with a stage 1 so you at least have some better grip.

positron · 08-26-2008, 04:54 PM

I decided to replace the stock flywheel with a aftermarket unit.

ACT Streetlite Flywheel part#:600225. I was going to get another brand but read that the chromoly forged one piece design was better and would not separate...porbably because it's one piece huh!

OEM vs. aftermarket flywheel. The OEM flywheel weighs in at 22lbs. and the Streetlite flywheel is 14lbs.

sr20ohio · 08-26-2008, 08:08 PM

nice should have gone 10 or 12lbs though

OpenThrottle · 08-26-2008, 08:15 PM

14 is still better than 22.

SRlouisiana · 08-26-2008, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OpenThrottle

14 is still better than 22.

hell yeah

dat411kid · 08-30-2008, 11:03 PM

You my friend, Is the Man! Just wanted to say thanks for detailing everything you did in this thread, this is gonna help me so much for my build...Keep up the great build man its coming along very beautifully!! Props..and keep up the good work!!!

S13X · 08-31-2008, 12:16 AM

you are god of write ups rep + 10000000

Monkichi57 · 09-01-2008, 07:19 AM

I'd like to thank you also. I am reading your page and it inspired me to do some work on my SR before putting it in. I'm planning on changing the head gasket also, so I was a little saddened by your decision, but great work. Thanks!

positron · 09-03-2008, 08:14 PM

I got some wire so I started on the fan wiring finally.

Tools needed:
Wire cutters
14 guage wire
Butt connectors

I had to decide wether to wire the fan motors for high power or low power and I opted for low power because of people saying that the fan motors burn out prematurely on high power.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+12v blue, (-12v black & -12v green) == low speed

+12v yellow, (-12v black & -12v green) == high speed

(+12v blue & +12v yellow), (-12v black & -12v green) == fans don't spin at all!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low Speed: blue connects to +12v source, black and green connect to ground.

High speed: yellow connects to +12v source, black and green connect to ground.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These elec fans have 4 wires EACH.

2 go to 12V
2 go to GROUND

Low speed requires ONE 12V lead and ONE ground lead...

High Speed requires BOTH 12V active and BOTH Grounds active.

On my 240 and 200sx have the same color's on the fans and the FSM's state the same pattern.

BLUE & GREEN are the two 12V sources
YELLOW & BLACK are the GROUND sources.

BLUE 12V & YELLOW Ground will give LOW speed
BLUE 12V & BLACK Ground will also give LOW speed
GREEN 12V & YELLOW Ground will also give LOW speed
GREEN 12V & BLACK Ground will also give LOW speed

BLUE 12V & GREEN 12V with YELLOW ground & BLACK ground will give HIGH speed....
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Using the provided diagram, it easily explains that there are four wires on each fan motor.

BLUE-12V power
GREEN-12v power
BLACK-GROUND
YELLOW-GROUND

So if I were wiring them for high power I would use all four wires but since I'm going with low power...I'll only use two. One wire for power and one for ground. There didn't seem to be a question as to which set I used so I chose the blue power and the black ground. The green power and the yellow ground will just be bypassed.

14 gauge wire. It seems to be the same guage as the wire that was provided with the fan controller unit.

Butt connectors. You'll need these to wire the fan motors.

Bird's nest!

Fan motors.

These are the two plugs that will need to be rewired.

I took a pair of wire cutters and cut the plugs off.

Like so.

I took a razorblade and cut some of the protective sheath back for some extra work space and bent the other wires out of the way since I'll only be needing the blue and the black. Speaking of those other wires, since I won't be using them should I tape or solder them off anyway? There will be no power running through them as far as I know.

Use the wire cutters to strip the end of the wires.

I started with the power wire first, take a butt connector(16-14) and place the wire in.

Crimp it to 16-14.

Repeat for the ground wire...

as well as the other fan motor.

I'm not certain how much wire I'm going to need to run for this setup so I just cut about a foot and a half, which is probably way too much, but I can always trim it down after the install. You'll need to cut four wires, two for the power and two for the grounds.

I took the first wire, stripped the end...

and inserted it into the butt connector. Crimp to 16-14. Repeat for the other butt connector.

Take the white wire coming from the FAN1 outlet on the fan controller, strip the other end of the EXTRA wire...

insert and crimp to 16-14. Repeat this for the FAN2 white power wire and the other EXTRA wire as well.

These are the three ring terminals provided for ground that came with the fan controller unit.

The grounds will be wired up like so.

Take one of the EXTRA ground wires, strip it, place the ring terminal on and crimp to 16-14.

Repeat for the other fan motors EXTRA ground wire. These will go in a ground spot in the engine bay.

While I was at it, I used the last provided yellow ring terminal for the fan controller unit's power source. Strip, insert and crimp to 16-14. This will be connected directly to the battery and will power the actual DIF fan controller unit which will in turn provide power to the individual fan motors from there...correct?

When I get my battery cables back, I'll post up a test to see if these fans work with this setup.

TO BE CONTINUED...

pmohr · 09-03-2008, 08:20 PM

Just a thought, solder and heatshrink is a much better alternative to butt connectors everywhere.

Also, the way you have it now it'll be a PITA to remove the fans should you need to, or to remove the controller or wiring, etc. The best way is to cut off the engine room harness side of the fan connectors when you get the fans at the junkyard and wire it up to that. That way you'll easily be able to pull the fans in the future, should you ever need to.

OpenThrottle · 09-03-2008, 09:09 PM

i used these types of connectors, instead of the butt connectors, for the wires coming of the fans and then wrapped each individual wire with electrical tape. this way if i have to remove the fans or something is going on with the wires i can just pull the tape and then unplug them. and when it comes to installation all i have to do is plug them back in and tape them up.

here are the connectors i used:

even tho this is not heatshrink and solder. i still think it does a good job and is a lot more convenient than soldering.

positron · 09-03-2008, 09:50 PM

Good deal, if I don't solder then I'll go that route!

OpenThrottle · 09-03-2008, 09:54 PM

EMAGDNIM · 09-07-2008, 11:41 PM

I have read all the pages till this one. This is a GREAT writeup of what you are doing! Keep up the great work!

positron · 09-08-2008, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OpenThrottle

i used these types of connectors, instead of the butt connectors, for the wires coming of the fans and then wrapped each individual wire with electrical tape. this way if i have to remove the fans or something is going on with the wires i can just pull the tape and then unplug them. and when it comes to installation all i have to do is plug them back in and tape them up.

here are the connectors i used:

even tho this is not heatshrink and solder. i still think it does a good job and is a lot more convenient than soldering.

Good deal, I did this yesterday so thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMAGDNIM

I have read all the pages till this one. This is a GREAT writeup of what you are doing! Keep up the great work!