Since there are a few people that ask, "where do I run this vacuum line to? where do I run this one?" I figured I would make a thread with a few pictures showing them where to run the vacuum lines. This is for SR20DET specific, more than likely it will work for your KAT too (but don't quote me on that one).
Ok first of:
If you have a Manual Boost Controller/MBC or Electronic Boost Controller/EBC (I have an EBC) this is how you would run the vacuum lines. This is written for an Greddy Profec B Spec-II EBC. If you have a different EBC look at the manual and see which port is for the wastegate and which port is for your pressure source on the boost solenoid.
First run a vacuum line from the wastegate actuator to the COM port on the Greddy boost solenoid.
From here:
To here (the little box between the boost solenoid and the power steering pump canister is for my Defi Boost Gauge):
The other port on the solenoid (which is the NO port) goes to a pressure source. What I did was buy an fitting that had a 1/4 nipple on it, then I made a hole just a tad bit smaller in my intercooler hot pipe (which is the pipe that comes from the turbo) and then screwed the fitting on there (don't worry its lock tight). The fitting can be bought at a local auto parts store for a few bucks.
From here:
To here:
On the Manual Boost Controllers you would run the line from the wastegate actuator to the port on the MBC that has the arrow. The second port would go from the MBC to the pressure source (fitting on hot pipe or the nipple on the cold pipe)
For you guys with stock sr20det side mount intercoolers, there should be a nipple already on the cold pipe (which is the pipe that comes from the throttle body). You can connect the pressure line to the nipple on the cold pipe. Also, if you have a nipple on the housing of the turbo you can run the pressure source to that nipple too.
Now for your boost gauge and the 2nd part to the boost controller. You can T both of them to the line that goes to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). Some people say, you should never T the line to the FPR but then again I have seen/read lots of threads where this is recommended to a person and the manual states to T the FPR line.
The one on the left part of the T goes to my Greddy EBC unit and the one to the right goes to my Defi Boost Gauge.
Your BOV will need its own vacuum source. DO NOT T THE BOV TO YOUR WASTEGATE ACTUATOR.
From the top right nipple on the SR20DET throttle body:
To you BOV:
The small nipple on the bottom left hand side of the throttle body should be capped off. Just zip tie your lines or use another form of locking the vacuum lines to the nipples or the T.
Now, if you need more vacuum ports. You can always get vacuum blocks off ebay. They are cheap and come with extra 3-6 vacuum ports. Just make sure you never hook up the vacuum block to the line that goes to your brake booster, that is dangerous.
Here is a stock vacuum line diagram for an SR20DET. This picture was edited and translated from Japanese to English by Hijackthis on Nicoclub.com, so all credit goes to him on this diagram:
Any comments or criticism just post on here or PM and I will correct the info.
__________________
FairLady Z
Last edited by 240-kid; 10-02-2008 at 04:54 PM.
Reason: Added some info.
i think you should have planned your pressure source routing a little more thoroughly, as that fitting and line are right where the intake element will be. i tapped my fitting on the underside of the hotpipe right over the actuator.
yes pipe as in hard pipe. the hot pipe is the pipe coming from the turbo going to your intercooler. cold pipe is the pipe coming from the intercooler going to your throttle body.
__________________
FairLady Z
Last edited by OpenThrottle; 10-20-2008 at 09:01 PM.
The "hot pipe" would be the hard piping before the intercooler right? Just making sure as i'm going to need to tap my pipe for vac.
this pic better illustrates it. My boost controller hasnt been hooked up yet so the line is going straight from the actuator to the pressure source so keep that in mind. the contoller solenoid goes between these two.
this pic better illustrates it. My boost controller hasnt been hooked up yet so the line is going straight from the actuator to the pressure source so keep that in mind. the contoller solenoid goes between these two.
If you run it like this you should be running right around stock boost. which is around 7 psi or around .5 bar (give or take on these numbers)
Can you splice the Vac line the WG uses with the Vac line a boost controller? I'm thinking about getting a AN fittign with a T-nipple instead of getting the vac block...
well with my set up I will have to have two fittings in my hot pipe, one for the WG and one for the SBC boost controller. Also I read you said to NOT splice my BOV, well I have my SBC boost/vac reading (1/4 line) spliced into the BOV. Is all of this a bad idea and I need to rerun all the current lines.
ok you should not need two lines for the pressure source. The line coming of the WG goes to your boost controller solenoid, the other port on the boost controller solenoid will go to the pressure source. I have an extra port on my solenoid that does not need to be plugged in. just double check your manual for your boost solenoid and how to hook up the vac lines.
Ok i think im having some issue's that might be pertaining to this thread.. Im getting either boost surge or stuttering just in boost.. I just bought the car and he had the boost controller setup to the blowoff valve?? why would this be? looks like my WG has a T on the line one for my boost gauge in my interior and the other one is going to the boost solenoid.. The BAD part is the line from the solenoid that your saying should be tapped in to my hotpipe is going to my Greddy BOV??? a line from my intake is connected to another T that feeds my WG and the line for the solenoid... What problems could this cause? (COUPLE PICS BELOW)
ok yea u got a mess going on there bro. if i was you i would remove all that and just start from the beginning with the vacumm lines. def get rid of that T from the WG and that line from the BOV and run them the way they should be.
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. oh well just made the pressure line a bit bigger and routed under the intake.
