All the NPT to AN adaptors get threaded into the oil filter block-off plate, oil filter adaptor and oil filter. You then mount the oil filter mount wherever you want it to be located, I'd probably either put it on the frame rail in front of the alternator or on the back firewall, for easy access from below. Remember to mount them so the oil filter hangs down vertically from the mount. Then mount the oil cooler wherever you want. I am going to mount it in front of the passenger side wheel and cut a hole in my bumper for air flow, but you could also mount it in front of the radiator/intercooler. You then run the high pressu rehose from the block off plate (using both straight hose ends for the block off plate end of the hoses) to the oil filter first then to the oil cooler. Then run the return line back straight from the oil cooler to the block off plate.
alright... here's the new list. Got it under $300 just by buying the fittings from a different place. Go to http://www.sweetperformance.com/ for these parts at much better prices.
you could save some with maybe a junkyard cooler core. not too sure what kind of cars came with them, but i know i see them occasionally when looking for stuff.
Good junkyard cooler cores come from:
- Twin turbo rx-7s
- Almost all turbo volvos
- Twin turbo supras
- Twin turbo skylines (some)
- Most large gasoline V8 trucks/vans
- Many turbo Saabs (see a pattern here?)
Junkyards will charge probably almost as much for a used one as for a new one from summit racing... but thats just speculation. I'd always much rather use new parts than used.
the reason yours are so cheap is becasue they dont include a thermostat.... just like engine coolant, you want the oil to heat quickly on a cold morning, this is why you need a thermostat, id say go for it if your so cali or fl. any where your average winter temps dont go below 45-50*f...otherwise dont do it... if your in the northeast your car will hate you...imagine how drastcally colder your oil temps will be in the first 10 minutes....normal oil will go from ambiant to 100*f in like 5 minutes of 4 gear cruise @ 40mph... i bet you wouldnt get over 75 on a cold day....the quicker your engine oil heats-->the quicker your tranny oil heats--->the better shifts you get.
the reason yours are so cheap is becasue they dont include a thermostat.... just like engine coolant, you want the oil to heat quickly on a cold morning, this is why you need a thermostat, id say go for it if your so cali or fl. any where your average winter temps dont go below 45-50*f...otherwise dont do it... if your in the northeast your car will hate you...imagine how drastcally colder your oil temps will be in the first 10 minutes....normal oil will go from ambiant to 100*f in like 5 minutes of 4 gear cruise @ 40mph... i bet you wouldnt get over 75 on a cold day....the quicker your engine oil heats-->the quicker your tranny oil heats--->the better shifts you get.
Good point! I live in San Diego so I never really worry about overcooling... There are two ways around this: oil thermostat or oil cooler covers. They are both fairly cheap, but the oil thermostat would require buying more fittings. An oil cooler cover is just an insulated bag that fits over the oil cooler in winter so that air doesn't get to flow over the oil and cool it. Its the cheaper alternative, although a little more ghetto.
your welcome, and just to let you know, what we n-e kids do is put on/off valves connected to the in and out lines on the cooler and then run a line in between the in and out ports and then just open them in the proper configureation and bypass the cooler all together (only works if your in and out are on the same side, other wise is pointless) but i would just "wrap it up for protection" (never thought id be refering to an oil cooler with that line.)
Cheap coolers ussually do not have turbulators built into them. Makes them a bad choice for engine oil. Research that before you buy. Good coolers cost more for a reason. Also, not running a thermostat is a bad idea. Oil that is too cold does not work as well. Even in 100degree weather most oil does not get that hot unless you are pushing the car hard. You need a thermostat to speed the oil getting up to 180F or so.
i dunno... B&M is a fairly respected company for performance products... and my solution for no thermostat is letting the car idle warm up for about 5 minutes... my oil temps are usually pretty close to operating temp by then.
i disagree. 180* is too hot for engine oil, 150 is sufficiant... by the time the oil hits 180 is viscosity is almost nill, and that means more metal to metal rubbing... and we all know what that means....
In my setup, it takes Nissan filters, although you could change to whichever type of filter you want, if you want a larger filter or something like that. K&N makes good oil filters which will fit Nissans or any other type of car, so the choice of which oil filter adapter to use is up to you.
Actually, much of the info in this thread sucks. Not going to argue but here are some samples.
180F is not too hot. It is the perfect temp. Too cold and you get more sludge.
Idling the engine does not get the oil up to temp. At least not on my car. I can drive for 5 mins and the engine is barely up to temp in cold weather. The oil can take a good 5 mins longer and I need to slowely increase the load so that I get some heat. DET's have built in coolers that use the engine coolant to cool the oil BUT that also helps the oil get up to temp faster. B+M may be well made but does it have turbulators. Transmission coolers often do not. Some of the stuff suggested is dual purpose/cheap stuff. Frankly, unless you have proved a need for a oil cooler you should not put one on your car. You will hurt the engine more then you help it. Cold oil is not happy oil. 180F oil is happy oil. 220F oil is on the edge. These are all sump measurements. Before you invest any money in a oil cooler. Put a oil temp gauge on the car and measure the temp in the sump. If you are not seeing over 220F on the street then you do not need a oil cooler. The oil setup that he suggested is not a bad setup. Only thing is it needs a thermostat and a oil cooler (with turbulators). Don't know if his does or does not have one. You can get a decent oil cooler for a fair price. Mocal and Setrab make good ones. When you add turbulator you can increase pressure drop unless they are made well. I have a 50 row Setrab on my car, Mocal sandwich adapter with thermostat built in. and only about 8 feet of line. Simple and effective. On the street I never saw my temps rise to the point of needing a cooler. EVER. If I did not track the car for 20mins at a time I would never have a cooler. Even 1/4 stuff does not warrant the cooler on most cars.
Actually, much of the info in this thread sucks. Not going to argue but here are some samples.
180F is not too hot. It is the perfect temp. Too cold and you get more sludge.
Idling the engine does not get the oil up to temp. At least not on my car. I can drive for 5 mins and the engine is barely up to temp in cold weather. The oil can take a good 5 mins longer and I need to slowely increase the load so that I get some heat. DET's have built in coolers that use the engine coolant to cool the oil BUT that also helps the oil get up to temp faster. B+M may be well made but does it have turbulators. Transmission coolers often do not. Some of the stuff suggested is dual purpose/cheap stuff. Frankly, unless you have proved a need for a oil cooler you should not put one on your car. You will hurt the engine more then you help it. Cold oil is not happy oil. 180F oil is happy oil. 220F oil is on the edge. These are all sump measurements. Before you invest any money in a oil cooler. Put a oil temp gauge on the car and measure the temp in the sump. If you are not seeing over 220F on the street then you do not need a oil cooler. The oil setup that he suggested is not a bad setup. Only thing is it needs a thermostat and a oil cooler (with turbulators). Don't know if his does or does not have one. You can get a decent oil cooler for a fair price. Mocal and Setrab make good ones. When you add turbulator you can increase pressure drop unless they are made well. I have a 50 row Setrab on my car, Mocal sandwich adapter with thermostat built in. and only about 8 feet of line. Simple and effective. On the street I never saw my temps rise to the point of needing a cooler. EVER. If I did not track the car for 20mins at a time I would never have a cooler. Even 1/4 stuff does not warrant the cooler on most cars.
Many good points made, but everyone's setup will be slightly different according to the state of modification of their engine.
You are right about the oil temp sensor being essential to determining your setup. On my almost stock red-top my oil heats up VERY quickly, and i often see 190F oil temps just running around on the street (this was taken with an infra-red thermometer after driving around for about half an hour on the highway then pulling into a gas station and leaving the engine on). And I'm sure the engine oil gets much hotter when I'm driving hard or on the track (I haven't had a chance to test it yet).
I'll call B&M tomorrow to see if their oil coolers have built-in turbulators.
However, I think only the s14 SRs have the oil cooler/coolant heat transfer unit, which may be the reason for my engine running warmer than yours, but who knows, as I said, its different for everyone.
(this was taken with an infra-red thermometer after driving around for about half an hour on the highway then pulling into a gas station and leaving the engine on).
How are you doing that? Any car that has a water to oil cooler from the factory is going to naturally heat the oil up to at least the point of the thermostat on the radiator opening temp. As a general rule the coolant in a SR is always going to be at least 180F. So 190F oil is probably ballpark for the temp of the coolant in the engine (depending on where you measure). This is all a good thing. I wonder how the stock cooler and then a add on cooler help/hurt eachother (if at all).
How are you doing that? Any car that has a water to oil cooler from the factory is going to naturally heat the oil up to at least the point of the thermostat on the radiator opening temp. As a general rule the coolant in a SR is always going to be at least 180F. So 190F oil is probably ballpark for the temp of the coolant in the engine (depending on where you measure). This is all a good thing. I wonder how the stock cooler and then a add on cooler help/hurt eachother (if at all).
I took an infra-red thermometer (one of those things that you can just point at stuff and it reads the temperature, great for tires!) and I got under the car and pointed it at the oil pan after letting it idle for a minute or two after getting off the freeway, to negate the effects of the wind cooling the outside of the oil pan. This was on a nice cool day down here, about 60 degrees outside and I was cruising on the freeway for about half an hour at about 3200 rpm.
I really have to get to the track to test this... but I have a feeling that my oil temps will get up there because my coolant temps sure do! Even with a koyo radiator and new water pump, if I run hard for about half an hour, I'll be seeing coolant temps of 240F+... very close to overheating. That was on a relatively cool 80F day too.
I just posted the thread so that someone who was so inclined to get an oil cooler didn't have to pay a grand for some ripoff HKS or Blitz kit.
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