Got a 240sx with sr20det engine for $500 - Page 2 - Nissan 240SX Forums
New Member Introductions **240SX 101. NO FLAMING ALLOWED**

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post #26 of 96 Old 02-12-2018, 09:26 PM
 
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Lookin good.
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post #27 of 96 Old 02-13-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks!

I will be moving it into the garage tonight considering it got down to about 25 degrees last night and I think more cold and wet weather is coming. I'll be able to button everything up much easier if it isn't outside.

Think I can make it through DEQ with just a cat and no mufflers? It's got some 'blast pipes' on it now. I have a feeling it's going to be a little too loud for my taste..

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post #28 of 96 Old 02-13-2018, 10:31 PM
 
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You might be able to pass DEQ with just a cat. Maybe retard timing a few degrees if it fails?

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post #29 of 96 Old 02-26-2018, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Not much progress lately. Got the shitty ebay H4 housings replaced. I've had a little trouble with the routing for the harnesses in the engine bay. Just need to massage it and get it routed properly before strapping it down.



Not going to be running by the end of the month, but should be able to fire it up in 2 weeks..
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post #30 of 96 Old 03-08-2018, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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Making some good progress this week. Got nearly all the wires plugged in. I had a set of 3 that I didn't have a clue where they went, turns out they're for the window washer bottle, and also as it turns out the window washer bottle and pump is gone. Why would you pull it out!? Transmission and driveline all bolted up. Exhaust all bolted up. Alternator, starter wired up. The relay plugs on the harness that came out of the donor were all busted, so I 'depinned' and 'repinned' the sockets with the good ones from the other harness. PITA, but it came out pretty good. I'm going to attempt to remove a broken bolt for the power steering pump in the block this afternoon and start routing hoses and vacuum lines and maybe make a bracket to hold the AFM.

Full 3" all the way back to blast pipes! LoL, it'll be getting a cat and muffler!


Intake pipes starting to go on.


Hoping to fire this shitbox up this weekend! It's going to be soo awesomely loud with straight pipes!
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post #31 of 96 Old 03-13-2018, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Didn't happen. Ran into all sorts of small tedious problems. Oil pan temp sensor set screw/plug was leaking. No freaking way a battery will fit in the stock location, it's got to go in the back. I don't have a stupid BOV and couldn't find a retainer clip to block it off. Didn't have enough bolts or the right bolts or matching bolts (being picky) or clamps. Didn't have an upper rad hose. MAF wire seems a little too short and it's missing the clip. Couldn't fit the filter and MAF in the bay. Couldn't find a 5/8" power steering reservoir hose. It just seemed like 2 steps forward 1 step backwards for everything I did.

But, got most of that crap taken care of, and hopefully I can fire it up next weekend.

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post #32 of 96 Old 03-15-2018, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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A little closer.. And I realized the injector plugs/harness actually routes along the inner part of the intake manifold not on the top. doh!


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post #33 of 96 Old 03-15-2018, 02:10 PM
 
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Looking good, keep at it.

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post #34 of 96 Old 03-16-2018, 08:24 PM
 
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good deal
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post #35 of 96 Old 03-19-2018, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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It's alive!



Are the valves adjustable or are they hydraulic? It's breaking up under boost pretty bad, probably have a boost leak or something. Do these things not use a pressure sensor for boost?

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post #36 of 96 Old 03-19-2018, 12:51 PM
 
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Try cleaning the maf of closing the spark plug gap to see if it's still breaking up under boost.

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post #37 of 96 Old 03-19-2018, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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MAF is brand new for KA24E. I set the gap on the plugs, but I might try closing them in a little.

Now that I think of it, I bet it's bad gas, it has tags from 2014 and it still had about 1/3rd of a tank.. shit. I should have drained it before filling it up. Maybe I'll throw in a can of octane booster.

I need to tidy up quite a few things, get the title transferred, get a temp permit and get a cat on it for emissions. But it does run and move. I'm going to raise it up about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. I have k-sports from the donor and it has stance coilovers on it now, not sure which one I should keep? Seemed pretty bouncy. I need to get the keyed lug nuts off that I don't have the keys for and of course it has 2 different types on it. LoL.


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post #38 of 96 Old 03-19-2018, 01:44 PM
 
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It could be bad gas. They make kits that break off lug nuts, can probably find it at sears or O'Reilly auto. I'd test out both coilovers and keep the set you like the most. Both are decent.

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post #39 of 96 Old 03-20-2018, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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I just ordered some keys for the lugs off amazon, hopefully they fit, or I'll just pound a socket on them. I've come to another conclusion why it's breaking up, it's overboosting. I used one of the upper nipples on the TB for the wastegate which only provides vacuum. I'm going to tap the IC or a hot pipe for the wastegate reference. I've read you can use the lower nipple on the TB but might still hit fuel cut. It already has a boost gauge from the previous owner that I need to hook up which might help with monitoring the pressure. Lots more to do!

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post #40 of 96 Old 04-11-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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It's insured, got a temporary trip permit and title transfer is in process. Catalytic converter is ready to be welded up this Saturday and then I'm off to take it to DEQ for emissions testing early next week. Fingers Crossed! If it passes, I have to go back to the damn DMV to get it registered/tags.

I tried the lower nipple on the TB and put a restrictor in the exhaust (basically a flat plate with a 2" hole in it) but that only helped a little with the overboosting issue. I'm going to put in a boost reference from the intercooler piping to the WG and hopefully that does does the trick.

Battery is mounted in the back for now. Going to hook up the boost gauge and finish putting the interior back together and clean up some of the wiring this afternoon.

Fans are wired up and running off a themoswitch (185 deg on 175 deg off) in the radiator. I'm not sure if the engine has a thermostat, it takes a long time to warm up. The thermoswitch might be too low temperature since it doesn't even get to the middle of the gauge before the fans kick on.

Apparently with these Enkei wheels you can't use regular lug nuts. I even tried a thin walled socket and you just can't get it in there. I guess I need some 'tuner' lug nuts, but at least I have all the socket keys I need!

Once I get it through DEQ and fully registered I'm going to get a nismotronic and WB and start learning to tune it.
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post #41 of 96 Old 04-12-2018, 08:05 AM
 
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Looking good! My RB was over boosting a little when I first swapped it causing it to cut out. Do you have a boost controller installed?

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post #42 of 96 Old 04-12-2018, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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No boost controller. Got the interior 90% back together, pulled out the sunroof and replaced the seal. I tried a 3M spray on adhesive along the edge of the glass and I'm thinking I should have probably used something else. It's like a spray on rubber cement. I might have to clean it all off and try again with something else.



The lifters aren't ticking any more. Seems pretty solid, I haven't noticed any smoke on startup or when driving it.

https://youtu.be/F6xdZI4UDPs

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post #43 of 96 Old 04-12-2018, 12:14 PM
 
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Just get a manual boost controller and it should clear up your over boost. I bought one off eBay for $15 and works just fine.

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In this situation where the turbo is too free flowing on the intake and exhaust side I don't believe a boost controller can lower my boost. I'm going to install a nipple into the turbo compressor outlet and plumb it straight to the WG. A manual boost controller basically restricts the boost pressure allowing the wastegate to stay closed longer/more. I need the opposite and hopefully a larger, more direct, wastegate boost reference line does the trick.

Lesson Learned: Don't use spray on adhesive for rubber seals on glass windows. Now I need to spend an hr or two removing all the 'glue' with acetone.

Sunday, I will be replacing the lug nuts and adjusting the coil overs for height and spring pre-load, it seems really bouncy.

I also found that the kouki tail light bulb sockets were drilled and the bulbs are held in place by duct tape. The e-brake cable seems stretched, maybe it can be adjusted. The hatch release/open lever feels worn out. I need a shift boot with the thing on the bottom. The ECU needs to be mounted. The front drivers headlight seems wobbly/flappy and needs adjustment. The drivers fender needs to be aligned and bolted on. Lots to do but I'm going to start daily driving it next week. Hopefully the weather starts getting better.

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post #45 of 96 Old 04-15-2018, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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closing the spark plug gap
^^this. Thank you!

Closed it to .028 cleared it up a lot! Could this be indication of weak coils?

Might try .025 and see if it completely clears it up.

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post #46 of 96 Old 04-16-2018, 12:23 AM
 
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Quote:
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^^this. Thank you!

Closed it to .028 cleared it up a lot! Could this be indication of weak coils?

Might try .025 and see if it completely clears it up.
If coils are functioning to spec and still having issues with spark, then it's just a matter of closing the gap. You're good to go

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post #47 of 96 Old 04-18-2018, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Closed it in to .024 seemed just as bad. Checked timing it was at about 5deg. Put it up to 14, all good now. Should have checked the timing, but figured it should have been set since I hadn't touched it. Wrong. Should I run 16-17 with 93 octane?

Headed to DEQ tomorrow, wish me luck! I still got more shit to fix and clean up but it's driveable. Will post up some videos and pictures here soon!

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post #48 of 96 Old 04-18-2018, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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It passed! Now I got to get back to the damn DMV for tags..



Running pretty good for the most part, some weird issues with the idle at times, might have something to do with the low temp or? Also noticed some vibration around 60mph, going to double check the driveline, axles and wheels.

Already feels faster than my old KA single cam 240. Lots more to do and I need to sell a bunch of shit and clean my garage..

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post #49 of 96 Old 04-18-2018, 09:17 PM
 
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NIce. Just curious...what do they check for for visual? As for vibrations, Wheels probably need to get rebalanced.

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They used a mirror to look under the car for a catalytic converter.. that was it.

It does need new tires so that could be it..

1990 240SX SR20DET
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