^^^^^^^is that true for the RB's (or at all)?? Since this sounds so simple, I would like to try it.
Can someone please tell me specifically where is the TPS and what does it look like??:12dunno
--TJ
How to Test/Locate the RB20 TPS...throttle position sensor...
S13_240_RB20
Can someone please tell me specifically where is the TPS and what does it look like??:12dunno
--TJ
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^^^^^^^is that true for the RB's (or at all)?? Since this sounds so simple, I would like to try it.
Can someone please tell me specifically where is the TPS and what does it look like??:12dunno
--TJ
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330 Posts
I aint picking on you man, didnt you swap and wire this entire project? Then you should know where the TPS is, by the title of it alone you should know where it is. Think about it,, Throttle Position Sensor,, where would a throttle position sensor be located on an engine...
Just trying to help you with the gift if deductive reasoning, a mechanic's best friend.
Just trying to help you with the gift if deductive reasoning, a mechanic's best friend.
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330 Posts
yep...made it this far, and my problems may be my own fault for all I know..lol
I know how to use deductive reasoning, but it's been raining for 2 days (and probably the next 2), and I would like to know where the plug is instead of taking my best logical guess (somewhere within inches of the throttle cable assembly) after standing in the rain for a few minutes.
If you are not going to tell me where it's at, can you atleast tell me if this is a valid test (to "unplug it and test-drive" and it should drive fine)??
Merry Xmas to you as well :thumbsup
--TJ
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330 Posts
Awesome!! Thanks!! I just learned something new today..when the rain lets up enough for me to inspect that plug and it's wiring system (or whatever it uses to "measure" the throttle), etc, I'm hoping to learn something else...hehe
In enough time, I will run out of stupid questions...lmao :thumbsup
Merry Xmas to you as well!!!!
--TJ
In enough time, I will run out of stupid questions...lmao :thumbsup
Merry Xmas to you as well!!!!
--TJ
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330 Posts
lol...No offense, but I hope that you seriously didn't know where it was also (so I won't feel so alone).. :thumbsup
Can anyone confirm/tell us what the results of unplugging the tps will be?? I will try it and find out if it runs better, but I would like to know more...
--TJ
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228 Posts
You win the award for most questions asked, before actually searching for answers.
Please download the FSM at this link and start reading. I'm sure you'll find some insight and helpful things after you have studied it a few times.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/rb/
Merry Christmas
P.S. A TPS is located on your TB (That's THROTTLE BODY, to you).
Please download the FSM at this link and start reading. I'm sure you'll find some insight and helpful things after you have studied it a few times.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/rb/
Merry Christmas
P.S. A TPS is located on your TB (That's THROTTLE BODY, to you).
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I am sitting here with a dumb founded look on face with serious case of confusion. 
Can you really unplug the TPS and actually be able to drive the vehicle? Im 99.9% positive I cant do that on the Eclipse...never tried though.
I dont see how you could with the basic fact that then the ECU wouldnt know where, well, your throttle position is.:12dunno
Can you really unplug the TPS and actually be able to drive the vehicle? Im 99.9% positive I cant do that on the Eclipse...never tried though.
I dont see how you could with the basic fact that then the ECU wouldnt know where, well, your throttle position is.:12dunno
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lol....That might be the only award I ever win on these forums....hehe. Unfortunately, I do search for info before asking. However, I always have to ask for such basic info because the info is soooo basic that no one has usually ever just spelled it out (for idiots like me).....all the search results show threads that discuss stuff by people that usually know already...lol
--TJ
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330 Posts
lol...I make make up a B-S theory that may be right: Unplugging the TPS will cause the car to work "independantly" (free of the computer-controlled-tuning). It may work better than before but I would assume that it won't be very well balanced (a/f ratio) and it will probably get sucky gas mileage...I am sitting here with a dumb founded look on face with serious case of confusion.
Can you really unplug the TPS and actually be able to drive the vehicle? Im 99.9% positive I cant do that on the Eclipse...never tried though.
I dont see how you could with the basic fact that then the ECU wouldnt know where, well, your throttle position is.:12dunno
But that's just a B-S theory, and I would still like to hear something confirmed...I'm going outside now to unplug mine and I'll come back and let you know what happens..
--TJ
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330 Posts
Ok. Just inspected the Throttle position sensor (TPS). I found 2 plugs connected to it. One was a side-mount plug and the other was 3 wires coming from the bottom and ending in a plug. I restarted and drove the car after each test.
Test 1: Unplugged the side-mount plug. The idle jumped up to about 3k rpm and steadied there. My power loss problem was not affected.
Test 2: Also unplugged the other plug at the same time. The idle very slightly faltered for a second and then steadied. My power loss problem was not affected.
Test 3: Reconnected the side-mount plug and left the bottom plug disconnected. The idle dropped to 1k rpm (normal) and steadied. My power loss problem was not affected.
So should I assume that my TPS is good because my power loss still remained unaffected??
--TJ
Test 1: Unplugged the side-mount plug. The idle jumped up to about 3k rpm and steadied there. My power loss problem was not affected.
Test 2: Also unplugged the other plug at the same time. The idle very slightly faltered for a second and then steadied. My power loss problem was not affected.
Test 3: Reconnected the side-mount plug and left the bottom plug disconnected. The idle dropped to 1k rpm (normal) and steadied. My power loss problem was not affected.
So should I assume that my TPS is good because my power loss still remained unaffected??
--TJ
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601 Posts
What have you replaced/fixed/tested so far?
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330 Posts
So far, I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel pump. I've also got a z32 MAFS that I need a wiring harness for, and then I can replace my RB20 MAFS.
I still can't figure out what's causing my bogging/lurching/power-loss/"whatever ya wanna call it"
. --TJ
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601 Posts
Well one of the smartest people on this forum told you to replace the coolant temp sensor... maybe you should listen to him.
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330 Posts
I remember....I know that the ect's are supposed to be pretty cheap, but the nearest Nissan place is over an hour from here and I don't think my car will make it. Is there a way to test them (electronically, I assume)??
I am going to try an idea right now. I bet it is going to be a mistake :tears but I am going to "unplug it and test-drive" since that is what everyone says about testing everything else...:12dunno
UPDATE:
Well, I just unplugged the 2-wire plug and the slide-plug on the two sensors (side by side) before starting up the car. Are they both ECT sensors or just the 2-wire plug?
Either way, I had a little more trouble starting it than usual, but then again it issss 35degrees here so that could be nothing...
With both unplugged, the rpms still bogged at 3-4k rpms.
After reconnecting the 2-wire plug, the idle seemed to drop to .500k rpms but balanced right back at 1k rpm steady idle.
Other than that, the rpm bogging (in neutral) was consistently the same when each plug was removed alone and when both were unplugged together.
--TJ
I'm guessing that the idle drop (when I plugged in the 2-wire plug) means that there is a signal coming from that sensor, but I would like to know what voltage reading I should get from it because I know that anything electric could send bad signals.....
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601 Posts
Personally idk how you're even attempting to trouble shoot a problem w/o an FSM. That would be my first recommendation to you, get one.
The bogging is from a wrong a/f ratio, which could be caused by a bad ECU, MAF (doesn't sound like it because it works right for a little while), ECT sensor, fuel pressure, dirty/ bad injectors... possibly your TPS.
The problem is, as you can see, there are too many things that could attribute to the wrong a/f ratio for someone to come up with a fix over the internet. If you don't know how to trouble shoot it yourself, and you don't have a factory service manual you're kind of SOL.
If I were you, I would find someone that has an RB20 and start swapping some sensors and the ECU to figure it out. If there's no one in your area that has an RB20, once again you're kind of SOL.
The bogging is from a wrong a/f ratio, which could be caused by a bad ECU, MAF (doesn't sound like it because it works right for a little while), ECT sensor, fuel pressure, dirty/ bad injectors... possibly your TPS.
The problem is, as you can see, there are too many things that could attribute to the wrong a/f ratio for someone to come up with a fix over the internet. If you don't know how to trouble shoot it yourself, and you don't have a factory service manual you're kind of SOL.
If I were you, I would find someone that has an RB20 and start swapping some sensors and the ECU to figure it out. If there's no one in your area that has an RB20, once again you're kind of SOL.
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