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car died while driving, fuel pump?

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#21 ·
I guess it's official then. Thank you everyone!

It looks like it should be as simple to install as a new O2 sensor. The only thing is that you have to drain some coolant out of the system before you take the faulty coolant temp sensor out. Then it looks like put the new one in, reconnect the wire harness, top off with fresh coolant, and we're good to go!

Am I missing anything?
 
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#22 ·
19mm wrench to take the old one out and put the new one in. Do it real fast and you won't loose but a couple squirts of coolant.
 
#26 ·
Quick question, do people refer to the EGR temp sensor as the knock/detonation sensor or are they two different things?
 
#29 ·
OK. My car's still broken. I swapped in a new coolant temperature sensor ($26 autozone beck arnley brand) and drove it around town running errands Saturday. It drove fine on highway and streets for 25 minutes...and then I pulled into a mall parking lot. I did my shopping for an hour, and then when it was time to go home, my car wouldn't start on cue. I tried turning the key about 4 more times in the next 10 minutes.. and it finally turned over and started. I drove home without any troubles.

Today (Sunday), I took it out for some driving... 45 minute drive this time on the highway...parked it, engine off...and then started it back up again 5 minutes later without any problems. I drove it for another 5 minutes....parked it..and came back to start it up again 2 hours later...no problems. I drove it on the highway for about 20 minutes...came to a red light...and then my engine stalled, died, and would not start up again. I threw it in neutral and pushed it over onto the side of the road, and sweated my ass off in the humid rain with the windows down. I cursed a lot, and then it started up again 25 minutes later after cooling down. I drove it home and that was that.

Car still has issues, even after installing a new coolant temperature sensor.

I have not pulled my ECU codes yet, but will do so tomorrow. Any ideas fellas?
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
so u stopped the car and turned off the engine to see if it will start up?

my car have been treating me really good so far
i think my problem might be something clogged in the gas tank
normally i dont fill up more than half full, but i did the day before
 
#31 ·
No, I did not turn the engine off and on and off and on again with the sole intention of seeing if it would start. I was making stops running errands from place to place.
 
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#32 ·
positron said:
I had this problem with the car shutting down on me after driving it for a short time. First I replaced my fuel pump because it wasn't priming thinking that it would also fix the problem...it didn't. Then I found a spark plug wire that was not connected to my distro from the ignition coil, connected that...didn't fix it. Finally, I replaced my coolant temperature sensor and that fixed the problem. My car always seemed to shut down when it reached a certain operating temperature so I think I finally narrowed down the problem and fixed it for good. Coolant temperature sensor FTW!!! $20 dollar fix from the parts store.
Click to expand...

well, the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, there are two, the one next to the intake manifold and the other, underneath engine, if you changed the one next to the intake manifold, that should have not fixed any poroblem but how it signals your temp to your gauge cluster, so it deff was not that.
 
#33 ·
Drift Motion said:
so u stopped the car and turned off the engine to see if it will start up?

my car have been treating me really good so far
i think my problem might be something clogged in the gas tank
normally i dont fill up more than half full, but i did the day before
Click to expand...


Well, it seems as if we all have the same problem


drive car 30 mins or so, suddenly out of nowhere BAM shuts off!?
then 30 mins later, turns back on.

well i had the same problem too, and the problem ended up being the DISTRIBUTOR, why? because usually a distributor after it gets hot, it usually shuts off and stops the car until it cools, but yeah try looking for a distributor at a junk yard and change it and you will see that was your problem


=] just make sure you are using a SERVICE MANUAL when changing the distributors.

and drift, i had the same problem as my car began to shut off, i thaught it was fuel pump, i heard the buzz noise so i knew it was good, then my car usually shut off when it was at half tank of gas, so i thaught it was a gas problem, but no, it will be your distributor.

DISTRIBUTOR
NEW: 200-450$

USED: 40-100$

IF YOU GET LUCKY:20-40$
 
#34 ·
could you go into more detail about how the swapping your distributor helped fix the problem that we all seem to be having?

I recently installed a new distributor rotor, distributor cap and spark plugs and wires, and it ran fine before all of that (i felt like i needed a tune-up) and it ran fine after.. for about 3 months...then i got this stalling/dying thing. Would any of the parts I installed 3 months ago have any relation to this problem?

Or is it the big old distributor itself, like you said?
 
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#35 ·
zoomiguel said:
well, the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, there are two, the one next to the intake manifold and the other, underneath engine, if you changed the one next to the intake manifold, that should have not fixed any poroblem but how it signals your temp to your gauge cluster, so it deff was not that.
Click to expand...
The coolant temp sensor and the guage sensor are practically right next to one another. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and that totally fixed my problem. I also had a problem a couple of weeks ago with a jiggly temp guage needle on my instrument panel and it turned out to be a loose temp guage sensor....fixed that too!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
this shit happened to me again!!

i think i figured out what the hell is wrong
car is definitely overheating, although my stock gauge dont say so
normally i only drive 15-20 min each way to work and back, but this time and last time when the car shut down, both times i was driving for about 30mins
car just died, then i let it sit for like 5min, tried to start it, barely started and kinda sputters, then died again, waited for another 15min or so, starts right up and drove home =.=
 
#37 ·
Driftmotion, I share your pain and frustration brother. Swapping in the new coolant temperature sensor did not change anything for me. I am determined to make some headway this weekend though. Friday after work I'm going to dig in and pull my ECU codes, if I can get the damn thing unscrewed. I've never pulled codes before, but i've got a nice little printout of what to do once I get the ECU out. I tried to get it out the other day in a rush and couldn't unscrew it. Saturday I'm just gonna take it in to a mechanic and get his opinion, and tell him about everyone's thoughts and experiences from this thread.

I need my car for a camping trip in 2 weeks, so expect to hear back from me with SOMETHING.
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
oooh, that'd be nice

basically u just unscrew the 2 screws, one top, one bottom, flip it around, DO NOT UNPLUG ANYTHING! then forgot either turn the key to on, then turn the little screw/ping thing on the ecu fully clockwise then all the way back, wait for the code(fast and slow blinking) if blinked 2 time fast then 3 times slow, then its 23
i believe thats how it goes

and my car died again today as i was pulling out of home depot, seems to only happen when i pull it out of gear, and the rpm drops way too low and dies...
tonight car didnt start the first time, waited for a couple mins, went and try again, took a big effort to start it...
 
#39 ·
Sorry I'm late but here's your solution, I hope.

Alright guys, I've been a member for a while but I really post anything cause I never felt it was necessary until now. I'll split this up in to two diff. sections: My Story and Solution.

My Story:
Back in October '06, I bought a '92 240 coupe, 5-speed. When I went to go eat after I bought the car it wouldn't start and I had to tow it home that day. Over the period of about a month I would drive it anywhere from 5 mins. to 30 mins. then it would shut off and die. I would then have to wait anywhere from 10 mins. to several hours just to make sure I had waited a long enough time so that it would start. The RPMs also kinda of locked at the low 100s, I would say about 200 or less and then the car would die. The longer I waited the more likely it would turn on and stay on but I would go home right away in fear of being stranded again.

Solution:
Ok, my friend, who was at the time a mechanic in training (school), immediately suspected the distributor. He had some tool that measured the electrical current (I think); it had two cables with alligator clips on the ends that was connected to a small box that gave the reading. Well he connected it to the distributor and actually started to crank it, he had to remove the cap in order to do this if I remember correctly. Well he got a reading of electrical current after every crank then BOOM!, the distributor suddenly died (hahaha...didn't mean to scare you with the BOOM!). So he told me Rick, it's the distributor. So trusting him, I bought a new Cap & Rotor AND the distributor ITSELF. The bill for the parts was well over $200.00, the distributor was remanufactured, I bought it at a Kragen Auto Parts Store (I live in SoCal:smacked49). Now when the parts had come in, we were ready to go but before my friend completely removed the old distributor he made some kind of mark with his key I think. When he put in the new distributor, he aligned the distributor to that mark so that it wouldn't f-up the timing, we then replaced the rotor but I didn't like how the new cap fit or maybe I didn't buy a new one at all, I think my old one was cracked. Well, so there I had the new distibutor with the new rotor and I have never looked back since, until now so that I could tell the story.

The only time the car has shut off while on the road is when I stall, but that has become a less frequent occurence. Well I hope this is the problem you guys have because man after that 1st month of having it fixed I knew this time it wouldn't die on me again, at least for that reason, and my trust in my car grew exponentially. You can't safely drive a car you don't trust.

Unfortunately I can't get into the specifics of the installation because I was just watching him do all of the work and I am by no means a mechanic. I have some horror stories over the weeks before the fix if anyone wants to hear them or other non-related repairs that I've had to do. I could use more post ratings lol.

Goodluck.
 
#40 ·
Just for future reference, the Distro for the KA = biggest POS ever manufactured. Ive had mine die on my twice. The first time I was in the middle of an intersection in 5 o'clock traffic, and the 2nd time I was 4 hours from my house on a road trip from Fl to Tx. I will never drive a KA as a daily again >>.

The first time it died, and it would start, and idle, but die as soon as u put any kind of strain on the engine (IE put it in gear), and the 2nd time was exactly like u said in ur first post, except worse, haha. That being said, Rbswap is next for me.

I was gonna just post up and say *change the distributor* but u found it already.. GJ.
 
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