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Plans for the Miata so far...

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#1,702 ·
Cool.
I'm about ready to just destroy my car.
The sheared bolt wouldn't come out with the "easy out" tool. So I tried PB blaster to loosen it and it didn't work. So I said to hell with it and drilled the bolt out completely. Now I'm trying to tap the hole and the tap won't stay perfectly upright b/c of the gay fucking tool I'm using. God Damn It.

Ordinarily I would say fuck it, and go back tomorrow but I'm seriously thinking about setting the car on fire....
 
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#1,703 ·
Alright...in a better mood now.
Going to hunt around for a tool to pull the valves with later. Eating lunch right now and trying to decide on what else to do today. I may put everything else back together before I go hunt the tool.
It would be nice to put the car completely back together and then all I have left would be to put the head on, check timing, and GO.
 
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Discussion starter · #1,704 ·
Alan... I'm pretty sure about the FD pan being rear sump. But, I'm not sure on how much you'll have to modify the front subframe in order to clear the oil pan. I DO know that you'll have to do custom motor mounts and such inorder to make the motor sit back far enough not to interfer with the steering rack. You will also have to find a way to make clearance for the exhaust since the 13B exhaust runs out the passenger side rather than the driverside on the Miata. However, this will be the least of your problems... You also might as well go with a 13B tranny while you do it since you'll be having to fab up motor mounts, you might as well fab up a tranny mount and driveshaft too... ESPECIALLY if you're going turbo 13B.
 
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#1,705 ·
No turbo....ever. Turbo = grenade for a 13b. Out of all the rotary heads I've talked to, every single one has said for my power goals (and since this will be a daily driver still) I could go N/A and get reliability and easily make 200rwhp.

Upon looking underneath the car (which might be running by mid afternoon now that I got the head back), modifying the PPF/tranny mounts will be the easiest and most logical way to do this swap. The TII tranny would be pointless. Plus I'm pretty happy with my stock driveshaft....that thing is LIGHT.
As far as the oil pan goes, I think a custom one will be best so that I can take into account any/all clearance issues with anything in the design process. I am curious about the exhaust though, b/c being pass. exit may take some work to keep ground clearance from becoming a factor.
 
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#1,707 ·
Fidelity101 said:
for 200rwhp NA, forewarned it is going to be LOUD
Click to expand...
that is never a bad thing with a rotary engine. you can make 200rwhp on an na with a LARGE street port or just go with a bridge port and run a straight pipe from the downpipe back.(add a silencer if u like, that bish will be loud!) You might wanna wire open your 5th and 6th port actuators and run a good stand alone cpu so you can tune the car.(id still rather go bp over a large sp, i love that sound of a tuned bp 13b. sounds sooooo sexy. :25drool)

damn thag u bish! wth u been hiding? im selling my fc because i bought an 02 tahoe. i posted it online yesterday and already got a hit.
 
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#1,708 ·
Yeah, 200rwhp NA is going to be loud, but that's ok, I'm going to be designing the mufflers more than likely. I'm still clueless about the exhaust routing. I may end up modifying the PPF or something....we'll see. The swap is a long ways off so I have more than enough time to change my mind or figure things out.

My plan, if I 100% decide on it, will be some sort of ECU (Haltech, MS, AEM, who knows...) no matter what. The streetport and ECU are just about the only way to make over 170rwhp NA anyway. Once I have a motor to play with, I really want to find a place to balance the rotors and E-shaft. In about 2 weeks I'm going to take a trip to a rotary guru's shop in Gadsden, AL (an hour northeast of B'ham) that my buddy knows to take a look at what he has lying around.
I've been reading tons about the Atkins rebuild kits, and I'll probably end up picking that up for the sake of reliability. I've already spent several PMs on NoPistons.com talking to Judge Ito about his porting experience and advice. I may end up using his porting templates too....we'll see. Right now this is all up in the air b/c I've got to have a running car first.

Only thing left to do on the Miata (now that I've got the helicoil and tap to fix the stripped hole) is just that, tap and insert. Only problem is I'm not going to have the time to do this anytime before Wednesday or Thursday....
 
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#1,709 ·
Silvia S13 said:
that is never a bad thing with a rotary engine. you can make 200rwhp on an na with a LARGE street port or just go with a bridge port and run a straight pipe from the downpipe back.(add a silencer if u like, that bish will be loud!) You might wanna wire open your 5th and 6th port actuators and run a good stand alone cpu so you can tune the car.(id still rather go bp over a large sp, i love that sound of a tuned bp 13b. sounds sooooo sexy. :25drool)

damn thag u bish! wth u been hiding? im selling my fc because i bought an 02 tahoe. i posted it online yesterday and already got a hit.
Click to expand...
it is my daily so that is a bad thing, sometimes...
 
#1,710 ·
Fidelity101 said:
I cant get you one, 130k miles, runs great all manifolds and everything.
Click to expand...
I just saw this dude, sorry. My brain is finally starting to work, now that I've seen Transformers...lol (and yes, I know that made zero sense) hahaha
How much and where?
 
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#1,711 ·
raen419 said:
I just saw this dude, sorry. My brain is finally starting to work, now that I've seen Transformers...lol (and yes, I know that made zero sense) hahaha
How much and where?
Click to expand...
lower penisula Michigan and 300.

good compression.


lol dont worry its just sitting at my friends house in grand rapids.

I'm willing to bet that also includes the clutch.
 
#1,712 ·
cool.
$300....hm.... I'll shop around, but that might be the motor I go for when I want one to drop in for oil pan design and clearances...lol Just depends on money.

Need to buy new wheels/tires for the Gap in Nov. And maybe coilovers by then too....
 
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#1,713 ·
thats fine no rush, I plan on turning it around and selling it for 500 to anyone else that isnt on the otherside of the country heh

turn a good deal into a huge profit. buy me a new snowboard :)

ps; I'm going to midwest rotary rally this weekend at road america, I'll snap some good pics if there is any rotary miata.
 
#1,714 ·
Sweet.
I just started tapping the hole for the helicoil on the camshaft cap. Good grief I had forgotten how long it takes to tap an unthreaded hole. Maybe I'll be have it threaded by the time I have to leave for work...lol.
 
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#1,716 ·
That would be correct. I worked on until about 7:45pm before I said to hell with it. Doing car work before going to work is just not my cup of tea...plus its hot as balls in the workroom downstairs...and no air flow whatsoever = short work time on anything, regardless of importance.

....maybe I should invest in a fan....
 
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#1,717 ·
raen419 said:
That would be correct. I worked on until about 7:45pm before I said to hell with it. Doing car work before going to work is just not my cup of tea...plus its hot as balls in the workroom downstairs...and no air flow whatsoever = short work time on anything, regardless of importance.

....maybe I should invest in a fan....
Click to expand...
i hear you on that...thats how my work is. in my bay its like 95-110* with very little air flow.
 
#1,718 ·
Sucks doesn't it?
If the air in the South wasn't so damn "thick" (humidity) it normally wouldn't bother me. But when you've worked 10hrs overnight in a stockroom w/o A/C, and then come home, the only thought in my mind is set A/C on 74F and crash like a rock. I planned to get up this afternoon and work on the engine, but well....its 8:47pm.....
 
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