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Discussion starter · #62 ·
yea it wasnt a bad idea we just didnt raise the winch high enough. the belt was to long at one point so we put the engine down and re-did the belt after that we almost had it out and then the belt lets go and drops the engine on the radiator support.....i was pissed but i wanna replace it anyways oh well


btw thanks revolved
 
#63 · (Edited)
As for the rad supports, your going to have to grind the spot welds with an angle grinder. Not too hard to do, but make sure you grind the support and not the chassis. It may that crappy glue, like on your shock towers, holding it on. Hot knife that shit. New old stock rad supports are still readily available.

As for the seam riveting, its simple. You go along where the chassis has been joined at overlapping sections, like the shock towers for example, with what appears to be caulk. This is a very flexable and shitty joint. By drilling through where the two sections overlap and installing a rivet in the new hole you just made and riveting the two sections together in multiple spots along the seam, you make a much more flex free, sturdy joint. This stiffens the chassis considerably, allowing the suspension to work more efficiently. The rivets I'm talking about are Stainless Steel pop rivets. All you need to put them in is a pop rivet gun, a power drill, and a drill bit.

Here's some example images of what I'm talking about.
Image

interior
Image

trunk
Image

engine bay

Notice the rivets all over the place. Riveting the fenders to the chassis also helps to stiffen the whole structure.

I have no idea how much a shop would charge, but considering the time consumed doing it would be pretty high, I'd say alot. Shops charge around 60 bucks an hour in Southern California.
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
so from what i see and understand riveting the chassis does not required any welding or anything in that sort of nature. correct?

if it does not, then it seems like a pretty simple job to do. just getting the small parts and taking the time to do it.
 
#68 ·
Wow great build you got going. If I had the dough I would have already put a SR20 in my '96. I have the shop, the lift, the mechanic friend, but no money...:12dunno. Anyway i'll be watching your progress.
 
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#69 ·
OpenThrottle said:
GREAT.......yea it seems like it might take some time but it might not be that bad. what you get out of is the great part about it. But thanks Reosoul, really good info and great help :thumbsup
Click to expand...
Here's a tip:
If you decide to rivet your seams, make sure you wet install the rivets by dipping the tails in an anti-corrosion sealant. If you have even squeeze-out around the rivet tail and head, you've done well.

^I aRe aIrcRafT eNgineer (seriously)
 
#70 ·
Reosoul said:
As for the rad supports, your going to have to grind the spot welds with an angle grinder. Not too hard to do, but make sure you grind the support and not the chassis. It may that crappy glue, like on your shock towers, holding it on. Hot knife that shit. New old stock rad supports are still readily available.
Click to expand...
You can also drill out the welds with a stepped drill bit. Companies make them especially for this purpose. I did the same job on my Maxima, it's not hard.
 
#74 ·
The rad support is easy to get out. Just drill out the spot welds all around it. You will see them. I used a spot weld remover, its just like a little holesaw that will leave the panel behind the core support intact so you can weld the new one one. If the joint still wont come apart, slide a putty knife in there and hit it with a hammer.

Aluminum hand rivets are easy to install. Stainless rivets, will definitely be hard on the hands. I suggest a air powered tool for this task, much faster.
Especially if you will be installing a ton of them.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
95ZenkiS14 said:
Dude if u just want to trash the radiator support. I'll take it. I need one for my car. Project looks amazing. How many days has it been so far?
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i'll prolly take the top part of the radiator support off and the 3 pieces of metals that go vertical, but you can definitely get them off my hands once they are off. honestly i wouldnt be able to tell you how many days, not that many tho.

Jamies240sx said:
Wow great build you got going. If I had the dough I would have already put a SR20 in my '96. I have the shop, the lift, the mechanic friend, but no money...:12dunno. Anyway i'll be watching your progress.
Click to expand...
yea dough is always a problem, i dont have the most dough either but i think i got a system worked out that should help, so we'll c. but thanks for the words dude

ShinHed said:
Here's a tip:
If you decide to rivet your seams, make sure you wet install the rivets by dipping the tails in an anti-corrosion sealant. If you have even squeeze-out around the rivet tail and head, you've done well.

^I aRe aIrcRafT eNgineer (seriously)
Click to expand...
will definitely keep that in mind, thanks guy

Lordrandall said:
You can also drill out the welds with a stepped drill bit. Companies make them especially for this purpose. I did the same job on my Maxima, it's not hard.
Click to expand...
aight good, hopefully it wont give me any problems or anything

E DacIouS X said:
coming along nice.... i think that rad support needed to go anyway since it was already bent before. I mean, I would not have left it bent like it was before at least.
Click to expand...
thanks,
yea i agree with you, i really wanted to get rid off it from the get go but when the engine dropped on it and bent it more it just gave me a bigger reason to get rid of it

frain said:
Can't wait for new pictures, man it's like watching TV
Click to expand...
frain i really i dont kno when the new pictures will come, b/c i havent worked on it in a while but once i get back into it you will definitely see more pics

nightkid86 said:
Where in NC are you?

Check out Carolinanissans.com !
There are weekly raleigh meets, and I will be having a new years meet at my house in CLT later this month.
Great car - where did you get it?
Click to expand...
Im in Salisbury, yea i go on there sometimes but dont see that much 240sx info. i mean i know there is stuff there but not as much as on here or nico. I got the car at Copart which is a auto salvage company in china grove. if im in town for new years and i have no other plans i might stop by with some friends just let me know where its going to be.

Shwag said:
The rad support is easy to get out. Just drill out the spot welds all around it. You will see them. I used a spot weld remover, its just like a little holesaw that will leave the panel behind the core support intact so you can weld the new one one. If the joint still wont come apart, slide a putty knife in there and hit it with a hammer.

Aluminum hand rivets are easy to install. Stainless rivets, will definitely be hard on the hands. I suggest a air powered tool for this task, much faster.
Especially if you will be installing a ton of them.
Click to expand...
Thanks Shawg, love you like a brother from another mother :thumbsup you always give me good tips



Well folks i havent worked on it lately (thats why there are no updates) b/c its almost end of the semester at college and im doin projects for classes and all that, plus my brother came to visit for 3 weeks. but next week hes leavin and i got 9 days off so hopefully i'll get some work done then and get some new pics for ya'll but i really do appreciate all the help/support/comments that ya'll provide. Thanks again



oh btw the new look of the site IS FREAKIN AWESOME :werd:cool:
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
droptoppaul said:
nice project you got goin on here! I'll have a build thread here before long, its gonna be a long one lol

Whats the difference between a black top and a red top?
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thanks. and good luck with your build :thumbsup. well im gonna assume you are talking about the s13 black top. really there arent that many. some of them are like cooling fins on front of the head (some of the late model red tops also had them) and i know that they changed the oil pickup on the black tops, and some ecu changes but thats about it. the 2 engines are really identical. the only reason it would be good to get the blacktop s13 is b/c some of them have less miles than the redtops but thats about it. hope that helped.
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
got some updates...................but no pics


finally washed the engine bay with power purple and a pressure washer looks a lot better, and i am also working on fixing some of the front end damage that is on the car.


no pics.....sorry folks.....digi is broke until i get another one.


thanks for reading
 
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OpenThrottle
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