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stamp

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok im looking to run about 20 psi on my rb20det right now I got a
coil pack conversion
FMIC
no exhaust
open air filter
and soon to be new turbo (modified vg30)

Right now i am boosting 14 psi I think the accuator was changed in japan as the motor bolted in boosted 14psi. What would need to be done to boost 20 psi using a safc to tune. I know I need a 255 fuel pump and adj. regulator
 
Which VG turbo are you using? The z32 VG turbos are really small, and the Z31's came with a T3 or a T2x flange setup.
 
lol, you need injectors and a turbo capable of that airflow...and most likely a z32 maf.
and safc is trash you'll blow the motor trying to tune it for that much boost...
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
the vg30et wich came off the 84-86 300zx turbo cars have the same mounting flange as a rb engine the one i have has been modified if will work to push 20 psi+ had it running 20 psi on my 84 300zx 50th edition run it easy and spooled quick im not saying im going to go straight to 20psi im just looking for an idea of what it will take when i get it on the dyno and start tuning i will make a decision of where to leave boost depending on the tune and hp
 
So, your running 14psi on your stock tune and turbo? And your looking to push even MORE psi on the same stock fuel/timing maps?

Let me find that link on zilvia (shoot me), and show you why the safc is a bad choice - Carl explained it to me one night and it changed my mind real quick.
 
The weak point is the pistons, not all the internals. Rods and crank are forged.

You'll need a lot more than you listed to boost that much. And you won't want to run no exhaust because a well tuned exhaust will perform better than non, even on a turbo car.

Things that haven't been mentioned that you'll need would be things like oil galley restrictors, oil and water pumps, you may want to think about a crank collar, driveshaft, and clutch.

Also if you really want to see extra spark out of those new coils you'll also want to look into a Quest alternator.
 
It all depends on the condition of the motor and the tune. Even with that you'll never know. But I'll say almost 500whp if even that. These motors are just under rated.
 
the stock internals should be good to 400whp minimum reliable, the stock pistons are beefy and my cp pistons looked identical to the stockers.
if anything arp rod bolts should be fitted for a motor that will see hard revving as well as address the oiling system issues.
 
Simple. Some if not all RBs are known to starve oil. What happens is the oil in the head goes back to cyl 6 and 5 which starves the front I believe. That is why Carl H and many installed 2 lines in back of the head which leads to the oil pan so it can recirculate properly and efficiently. Also I think that there some oil slippage occurrence which leads to this problem as well. Its pretty common on GTRs.

I know some of it might not be correct but thats just the top of my head so someone who knows better please correct me. Thanks.
 
sorry but this is totally wrong...

Simple. Some if not all RBs are known to starve oil. What happens is the oil in the head goes back to cyl 6 and 5 which starves the front I believe. That is why Carl H and many installed 2 lines in back of the head which leads to the oil pan so it can recirculate properly and efficiently. Also I think that there some oil slippage occurrence which leads to this problem as well. Its pretty common on GTRs.
the problem is the rb's oiling system is effcient but the drains in the head arnt large enough to return all the oil...so what happens is oil ends up pooling in the head instead of in the sump which can cause pressure fluxuations and/or oil starvation; typicaly this only happens at high rpm use like a track car or a hpde setup car...dont be fooled tho this can also happen to a dd.
to address this external drains are fitted to the head, and depending on which way you went this can be either 1 or 2 fittings leading back to the pan to help expidite oil return.
another way the oiling issue is addressed is thru fitting restrictors to the oil feeds for the head, sydneykid on skylines australia is well versed in tuning high performance rb motors and created a sort of 'spec sheet' for what restrictors to fit with what oil pump/motor combo.
now the last issue is the short snout oil drive on the crank, ALL rb20 motors, ALL r33 rb25 motors, SOME r32 rb26 motors suffer from this.
the issue is the drive for the oilpump is too short and at high rpms this can cause slippage and actualy destroy the oil pump gear resulting in instantatious low oil pressure and essensialy killing the motor.
the fix for this is to retrofit a redesigned pump to the motor (all rb motors use the same pump configuration) and fit a crank collar such as the jun, proengines, or gtr shop collar.
this involves removing the crank, having the snout turned down and the collar pressed into place, it is a friction fit with allen screws for safety.
thats the BASIC gist of the rb oiling issues, there are others but those are the major ones.
 
wow, very interesting. You see I have a friend bringing his R32 up for a rollcage(its replacing his old S14 drift car) and I asked him to bring up one of his three RB20's so I could rebuild it for him so he's over-prepared for the season. These motors will be driven hard and see high rpms as well having to take a good amount of miles from the street, and I'm trying to learn of all the "weakpoints" on the RB20's. should have known to pick carls brain!
 
its hard to say, some motors take relentless track abuse and never crack and then you'll have the stock ass stock dd that the owner revs hard once and it explodes...they're very hit or miss.
 
carl, I'd love it if you could shoot me some more info on any and all shortcomings of the RB20 when used in a track car. I love the motor and will probably be building a few in 2008 and would like to address all the issues. i've been doing research and it'd be nice to have a few more heads-ups to point me towards others issues to research.
 
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