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My S13 SR20DET Prep

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Discussion starter · #121 ·
rexbo said:
My boss is running the tomei manifold and turbo elbow on his S14 SR and it sounds great, spools fast, is very compact and hasn't cracked, leaked or otherwise caused any issues so far.

No word on the megan one though!
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Thanks for the input rexbo.:thumbsup


OpenThrottle said:
go with the megan mani and a tomei/greddy turbo outlet pipe. it will save you some money and the megan one isnt that bad, then when you have enough money saved up to fully build that oh-so-sexy engine of yours, then go all out (those are my plans, just gonna enjoy it until then)
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Yeah, that did cross my mind...if I were to upgrade the turbo later on then would be the time to go all out!
 
Discussion starter · #122 ·
Went to the junkyard today to help a friend pull the head off a 1st gen Integra and while we were at it I noticed a purple 2nd gen Altima sitting a couple of feet away. When we were done I went over and popped the hood, the radiator was gone but what did I find just sitting in the bay....
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this set of Altima fans in great condition.
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I'm not sure if this is the set that everyone uses but we tested them at the junkyard, they both run and I only paid $40 for them so if this is the correct set then I came out on top. If these are the right fans I'm gonna clean them up and sell the Permacool.
 
Discussion starter · #124 ·
Agreed! I noticed that also...what's up with that? Is it a air flow thing or something?
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
I checked the other Altimas to see if there were more fans just in case some fellow swappers were interested but there weren't anymore.
 
#127 ·
you deserve a metal. this is beautiful and inspiring
 
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Discussion starter · #128 ·
Fan

I had originally bought a 14" Permacool fan that I planned to use for my swap but after doing some research and a stroke of luck, I was able to nab an Altima dual fan set-up instead.
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Koyo rad, Altima fans and the Permacool.
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The dual Altima fans cover the entire surface area of the radiator, as a matter of fact, they hang over a bit which is where you might run into a slight complication.
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The Altima fans don't exactly line up with all the mounting points on the Koyo radiator so it doesn't sit flush against the rad. This is where you have to mod it for fitment. This is where I didn't want to go, if I have to mod this thing and couldn't do a clean job I was planning to just go with the Permacool setup or just wait and save for the Flex-a-lites which to my knowledge have no fitment issues.
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The upper left mounting point fits perfectly, all I will need to do here is place a bolt to mount the fan to the Koyo.
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The upper right mounting point does not line up, I also thought I might have to trim this off because of the radiator bracket but we'll get into that later.
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The lower left mounting point does not line up with the bracket on the Koyo or sit flush either. It overlaps so the little tab just will not go into the slot as you can see here.
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The lower right mounting point also does not line up or sit flush against the radiator.
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As you can see here the fan is blocked by the lower radiator outlet and will need to be modded.
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I figured the easiest way would just be to trim the plastic just enough to allow the fan to sit flush against the radiator, time to use the knife again.
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I started with the lower left mounting point first.
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I just sawed into it from all directions until it was loose enough to snap off.
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This is how much I took off.
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Next, I went to the lower right mounting point.
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It's blocked by the lower radiator outlet...
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and just needs a small wafer of a section trimmed off to allow the flushness.
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Complete!
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While I was at it I decided to mount the radiator brackets on because I was also worried that because the mounting points didn't line up then the rad brackets would also block the fan from sitting flush but they did not interfere at all.
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As I said before the upper left mounting point lines up perfectly, you can bolt it in and the rad bracket does not interfere.
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The upper right mounting point does not line up to where you can bolt it to the rad but it also does not interfere with flushness. The rad bracket can be mounted without any problem. You are left with this mounting point sticking out above the rad. You have the option to shave it off also since it's not needed but it's not necessary.
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When I was done trimming the excess plastic off, I just took a sanding block and sanded the edges down smooth for a cleaner look.
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With all the trimming done the fans now sit flush against the radiator. All I have to do now is get some of those ties that they use for mounting the rads and wire it up...
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but before I did that I decided to break it down and clean it up first.
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All you need is a 10mm socket. For the fans there is one 10mm nut holding them in.
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And for the fan motors there are three 10mm bolts holding them in.

TO BE CONTINUED.....
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
Spark Plugs

I got a set of spark plugs in today, here's what I did.

Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Spark plug extension
16mm spark plug socket
10mm socket
Canned-air
Spark plug gapper


Before I got serious about doing a SR swap I called myself buying up parts for the intended swap even before getting the engine....big mistake.
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I did no research, didn't know exactly what I needed and wound up with a couple of useless parts so anyone who plans on doing this who doesn't have a good understanding of auto mechanics, aka "shadetree mechanic" like me, make sure you do your research so you don't waste time and money on parts that you don't need.
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Because of my impatience....
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I now have two sets of plugs one of which is completely useless to me.
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BKR6EIX Stock#:6418-stock boost. Heat range=6
BKR7EIX-Mild hp. Heat range=7
BKR8EIX-Heavily modified, high hp. Heat range=8
I'm planning to run a stock boost, stock engine setup so this is the set that I need. I got this set from FRSport.com and they come pre-gapped for a plug and play install.
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This is the set that I bought before.
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Came to find out that they are not what I'll need and they are gapped to .040. BKR5EIX-11 Stock#:5464?????
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Let's get started. Get a allen wrench to remove the spark plug/coil pack cover. There are six allen head bolts.
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Use a 10mm socket or a screwdriver to remove the coilpack bolts from the valve cover.
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Pull the coilpacks out one at a time. I think some people disconnect the harnesses from the coilpacks before pulling them.
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You can see the plugs deep down in the block.
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Take a can of compressed air and blow out the well to remove any debris that could get into the chamber once you take out your plugs.
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16mm spark plug socket and spark plug extension.
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Take your spark plug socket...
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and place it in the well.
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Remove the spark plug.
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Pull it out. Remove all four plugs.
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New plugs versus old plugs. I looked it up but I still can't judge the condition of these pulled plugs. From what I read they seem to be normal or maybe carbon fouled...I can't tell...anyone? Here's the breakdown.

NORMAL PLUG-Light tan or gray deposits on the firing tip.
CARBON FOULED PLUG-Identified by soft, sooty black deposits, may indicate an improperly tuned vehicle. Check the air cleaner, ignition components and engine control system.
PHYSICALLY DAMAGED PLUG-May be evidence of severe detonation in that cylinder. Continued detonation could not only damage that cylinder but the engine as well.
OIL FOULED PLUG-Indicates an engine with worn piston rings and or bad valve seals allowing excessive oil to enter the chamber.
EXTREMELY GAPPED DISTORTED PLUG-Has been left in the chamber for too long as indicated by an extreme gap. These could cause misfiring and stumbling accompanied by a noticeable lack of power.

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Take the new plugs and insert it into the socket.
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In order to avoid crossthreading them I seated them by hand instead of using the socket. You can feel when they are properly threaded better this way. Once you get them in, use the socket to tighten them.
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Torque the plugs to 14-22ft.lbs.
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Installed.
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Install the other plugs the same way, reinstall your coilpacks and your spark plug/coil pack cover.


If you have to manually gap your plugs then you can do so with a spark plug gapping tool. You can get them at the parts store for like a buck.
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Spark plug gapping tool...also useful to check gapping.
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Like I said before, these came pre-gapped to .030 but I checked just in case and they were.
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I thought it was cool that these old plugs were NISMO so I decided to keep them. I even cleaned one up and made a keychain out of it.
 
Discussion starter · #130 · (Edited)
Altima Fan Modification w/Koyo Radiator

While I had my fans broken down into pieces I thought this would be the best time to experiment with the shroud and see how I could mount it best to the radiator. These modifications were made with the purpose of using the Altima fans on a Koyo Aluminum radiator. Keep in mind that this is a total ghetto-fab job. It works but don't look so good.

Tools needed:
10mm bolts
10mm nuts
Small metal bracket(about an inch in length)
Drill
Zipties
Knife/blade/razor
Sandpaper or a sanding block(medium grit)

I was able to nab a set of Altima fans for use in my swap but the problem is that they don't exactly mount up properly to the Koyo/SR swap unless you modify. Untouched, the fans only line up with the top left mounting point on the Koyo and even then they aren't flat against the rad because of being blocked by the lower portion of the fan shroud sitting on the lower rad outlet and the A/C condenser brackets. I already explained earlier what I had to modify on the lower portion of the fan shroud in order to get the fans to sit flush against the radiator so now I'll go into detail on what I did to get them properly mounted to the Koyo. I was originally just going to use the Permacool fan mounting kit that I had with the zipties but I was informed that because of the wieght of these fans, that would destroy the radiator fins. It's just too heavy to be mounted in that fashion, much heavier than the Permacool.
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As you can see here the Altima fans cover the entire surface area of the radiator.
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They even over lap a bit on the left....
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and on the right side but that's not a problem.
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Here are the four points of mounting that I used. This is the upper left side, this is the only mounting point that lined up to the rad mounts.
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Just use one 10mm bolt and a small spacer if your bolt is too long to take out the slack.
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For the upper left side the mounting point is about a half inch away from the mounting point so what I did was...
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Take a one inch piece of metal and line it up to the rad mount and the fan mount...
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mark two spots on it for where the holes need to be drilled like so...
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and use a drill to make the holes in the metal. I went back and cut off the excess metal...well, I didn't actually cut it because I didn't have a tool so I just bent it back and forth with a set of pliers until it snapped off and then I sanded the edges smooth.
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I was able to put the bracket on the rad and the fan mounts diagonally. I used a 10mm bolt and nut on the fan shroud and I used a 10mm bolt on the rad mount with a spacer for the slack.
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Front shot.
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Top shot. Like I said GHETTO FABULOUSNESS!!!! Bolts not threaded in all the way but that's because I'm not ready to mount it. I still have to put the fans and motors back in....but it works!


While I was doing this I ran into a small problem. The bolt didn't line up straight with the rad mount because the side of the mount on the fan shroud was in contact with the bolt head pushing it to the side.
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This was easily fixed by just cutting a small wafer thin piece of plastic off the shroud here and sanding it down smooth thus giving the bolt head plenty of space to be threaded in to the rad. I still need to work on that because it just looks bad!
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On the lower left side as I explained earlier in the thread, I just cut a small section off here and sanded it down to sit flush. This needs to be worked on too...even'er out!
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And on the lower right side I cut a thin section off so the shroud could fit above the lower radiator outlet.
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FOR MOUNTING THE BOTTOM OF THE FAN SHROUD I DID THE FOLLOWING.
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Trusty zipties. I figured that since the top of the fan is bolted in nice and tight then I could get away with zips on the bottom.
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I'm going to run two to three zipties per side throught the holes in the A/C condensor mounts on the bottom of the Koyo...
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and around the fan shroud like so.
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Tie them off and cut the excess.
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I think that this could work unless the heat takes out the zipties so if anyone has another idea here let me know.
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Before I put the fans and motors back into the shroud I decided to work on those cut spots, clean it some more and lay a coat of Krylon fusion on to give it a refresh look.
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This stuff bonds pretty good to plastic but the extreme heat will soon take care of that yes....I gave it a shot! Now for the wiring and a fan controller.

TO BE CONTINUED
 
#136 ·
Joel 180 said:
please go and buy a dremel. You are doing all this meticulous work then hacking at plastic with a blunt pocket knife
Click to expand...
ahahahaha he's not allowed to have power tools after running naked with the angle grinder.

btw: cut your fingernails, the ladies don't dig the grease-filled crevices
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
rexbo said:
ahahahaha he's not allowed to have power tools after running naked with the angle grinder.

btw: cut your fingernails, the ladies don't dig the grease-filled crevices
Click to expand...
LOL!:rotflmao
 
Discussion starter · #138 ·
Clutch Pivot Ball...Problem?

I took the throwout bearing off my clutch today and when I removed the fork this came apart. I know nothing of the pivot ball so should I be worried here and what are my best options for a replacement? Will a KA24DE pivot ball work or should I just get one from SPL, Nismo, etc?
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Discussion starter · #140 ·
It must have already had a crack in it and been on it's way out so I guess I lucked out on that one so to speak.
 
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