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pulled the head on the rotary motor? or the maita motor? LOL cause rotaries dont have heads:p
on his 1.6

and alan, I just got a job at a local tuner shop and the owner has several rotary motors sitting around, I think i'm going to try my hand at a rebuild. i have machining tools and a dyno at my disposal now and it'd be a nice skill to have under my belt.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
If you get "those skills" under your belt, you're going to be taking a road trip back down here for when I rebuild mine ("mine" that I don't even own yet, lol) with the Atkins kit.

And Redlined, reading comprehension owns you :D
 
Hmmm whats this a rotary thread and I wasn't invited. YOU BASTARDS...lol.

The only way you are going to make it to 10k rpms withot hurting something and actually poweris a full Pherical port build and doweling. What happens after about 8.5k revs is that the eshaft(crank) starts to flex and can chip a seal on the intake ports. But this kind of motor really isn't streetable and the engines life span isn't that long.

Really in a miata the onyl way to go is a S4 or S5 turbo motor swap because they are the cheapest to obtain easy to make power and simple to mount. Some people go with the REW motor from an FD which has larger stock ports but you have to deal with the stock twins and lower than average life span compared to an FCs motor and higher initial cost.

My t2 is a pretty good example(i think) of how to build a streetable motor that make good power on a small budget and is pretty reliable.

Find you a S4 turbo motor send it to rotary resurection to get it rebuilt and ported if you do not feel you have the tools or skills necessary to do a build yourself. Put port matched S5 manifolds and the S5 trubo(has a much better wastegate design from the factory) and have the turbo sent to BNR turbo and get either the stage 2 or 3 kit. Buy a megasquirt ECU, walbro 255 720cc primarys 1020 secondaries and hit at least 325hp no problem.

Right now my car with a slightly larger port than RR offers and an S4 turbo with the BNR stage 3 kit i hit 335bhp. But then i wrecked the car and now it is alot different and will have about 90hp more with alot more done to it..........turboblwn is my freind
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
the N/A 13b may weigh around 180lbs, but the TT 13b weighs a LOT more than that.
A fully dressed N/A 13B S5 weighs 260lbs. I saw the scale and was holding the camera to take the pic.

And to just to clarify (since I started this thread), a 13B won't be going into my car ever. Gas prices, time, money, reliability, and interest in other things have taken away from the Miata. Its got a decent running 1.6 in it right now. I may rebuild another one for some N/A run though. Nothing crazy, just better breathing.
 
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