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Well, since the car in the pic happens to be mine, I'll chime in for a bit. Coilovers are Tein Flex (Not my first choice but I got them used in really good condition for $700 and Tein is local so if they blow I can rebuild them pretty easily). I bought them because they are fully adjustable (separate ride height and preload) so ride quality won't suffer if the car is "slammed." Spring rates are 7k/7k. Ride quality is similar to stock but just a tad stiffer. BTW there are a lot of lower cars out there but if I go any lower I'll be hitting the reflectors on the road.

Be sure to get coilovers that are have separate ride height and preload adjustments or the ride will suck if the car is slammed.

I also have Tein tie rods and tie rod ends. As far as adjustable arms I have SPL tension rods up front and SPL RUCA's and toe links in the rear.

Wheels are 17x9 +16 and 17x10 +18 and tires are 215/40 and 235/40 Federal 595's and are stretched to allow the tire to tuck inside the wheel wells, which are rolled all around and pulled ~5mm in the rear. If you get 18's the car will have to be lowered even more as previously posted.

The car was professionally aligned by Driftspeed but any shop that does race alignments can align the car.

BTW I had kei office xt-alpha's on my s14 and they are fully adjustable as well. Spring rates on those were 9k/8k, but the dampening characteristics of kei office are much better than tein flex's so the ride quality of the kei office coilovers was superior than the teins even though the spring rates are stiffer.
 
what will that 4K include for your setup?

--
what do you guys think about the KTS brand suggested earlier? anyone recommend something different? aside from the slamming, how good are KTS performance-wise?
That includes:
Coilovers
Just about every SPL Susp. Link/Arm
GT spec Braces, F & R Strut and trunk
nismo Front Power Brace
Tanabe Rear Brace
CorSport C-Pillar
Nismo F & R LCA's
GP-Sports Front Knuckles
JIC Sways
and a bunch of other stuff...


and KTS is well known and supported in the S-Chassis world so, I mean you'll basically here nothing but good.


Tein Flex's are good fro Daily Driving and the Weekend warrior while still looking and riding badass being slammed


Also it was toe rods that would meet your sub frame if it was too low, not tension rods :p lol
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
You really dont need much to "slam" your 240. Also take into consideration his wheel/tire size and fender well clearances. A larger diameter wheel will fill the gap between the fender and the tire while leaving a little more clearance under the car....soo you also have to look at your sidewall aspect ratio in relation to your ride height. Of example, if you drop your sidewall ratio but dont adjust your coilovers, it WILL make a difference in ground clearance and fender well gap as well.
some good points there.. i currently have an almost stock-like setup with 195/60 15 in the front and 205/60 15 in the rear. they're just some knock off 5 spoke rims that came with the car, same size all around. they look Okay i guess, but definitely not the setup i wanna keep (i'd love to sport some LMGT4s but that = expensive rims + 5 lug swap = too much right now..)
so for now, just the lowering on my current wheel setup.

one thing i was wondering, though, was whether or not i should try to push my current rim/tire setup just a little, ie sport some slightly wider and maybe thinner sidewall tires.. but would it really be of much benefit?

//that coupe in your sig looks very clean.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Well, since the car in the pic happens to be mine, I'll chime in for a bit. Coilovers are Tein Flex (Not my first choice but I got them used in really good condition for $700 and Tein is local so if they blow I can rebuild them pretty easily). I bought them because they are fully adjustable (separate ride height and preload) so ride quality won't suffer if the car is "slammed." Spring rates are 7k/7k. Ride quality is similar to stock but just a tad stiffer. BTW there are a lot of lower cars out there but if I go any lower I'll be hitting the reflectors on the road.

Be sure to get coilovers that are have separate ride height and preload adjustments or the ride will suck if the car is slammed.

I also have Tein tie rods and tie rod ends. As far as adjustable arms I have SPL tension rods up front and SPL RUCA's and toe links in the rear.

Wheels are 17x9 +16 and 17x10 +18 and tires are 215/40 and 235/40 Federal 595's and are stretched to allow the tire to tuck inside the wheel wells, which are rolled all around and pulled ~5mm in the rear. If you get 18's the car will have to be lowered even more as previously posted.

The car was professionally aligned by Driftspeed but any shop that does race alignments can align the car.

BTW I had kei office xt-alpha's on my s14 and they are fully adjustable as well. Spring rates on those were 9k/8k, but the dampening characteristics of kei office are much better than tein flex's so the ride quality of the kei office coilovers was superior than the teins even though the spring rates are stiffer.
hey, thanks for chiming in ;) .. hope you don't mind me posting up your car.. saw it there at california speedway the other weekend and i was blown away, never having seen such a clean 240 in person before.

hmm, thanks for the tips.. seems like you have a pretty sufficient suspension setup. what i'm aiming for is a sort of bare minimum (somewhat budgeted) setup with still enough to be decent and not half-assed or mickey-moused as some would say (with, of course, plans to further upgrade components of slightly lesser priority as funds do so allow :p).

wait.. so the kei office had a superior ride quality while still having stiffer spring rates? how does that work out? which do you prefer then, the kei office or the tein flex, for street/track use?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
That includes:
Coilovers
Just about every SPL Susp. Link/Arm
GT spec Braces, F & R Strut and trunk
nismo Front Power Brace
Tanabe Rear Brace
CorSport C-Pillar
Nismo F & R LCA's
GP-Sports Front Knuckles
JIC Sways
and a bunch of other stuff...


and KTS is well known and supported in the S-Chassis world so, I mean you'll basically here nothing but good.


Tein Flex's are good fro Daily Driving and the Weekend warrior while still looking and riding badass being slammed


Also it was toe rods that would meet your sub frame if it was too low, not tension rods :p lol
wow. :eek4: that's gonna be a pretty fun setup i know you can't wait

so tein flex seem to be the good all-around choice.. how about KTS for the same category? Would those be a good (or better?) choice for pretty much what you stated for the tein flex's: daily driving, weekend warrior, and still looking/riding badass being slammed?
 
Haven't personally ridin on the KTS one's but from what I've read, they ride pretty good, I have only ridin on Flex's and they felt like they were just a sligtly stiffer Stock but really showed difference when you pushed it compared to a strut and spring combo...
 
hmm .. btw, i was looking at Tein's website.. is it the Type Flex or the Mono Flex?
probably the Type Flex, right?

also, just curious as to why it says in their instruction manual "this product may not be installed in vehicles driven on public roads"

i was checking some prices and KTS seem to be Much cheaper than Tein Flex's .. are they comparable in quality?

oh, also, what do you guys think about Stance? the GR+ or GR+ Pro? How do those stack up with the KTS and Tein Flexs, and would they be good for dropping the ride height as much?
 
Just about any part you put on your car that will improve it's performance isn't street legal, but we do it anyways so there's no need to worry about that...

Also they are both high quality parts so it's pretty much just personal prefrence..

Stance's are good from what I've read but lately I've been seening alot of ppl having some prolems, not sure if they have straightened that out yet but I do remeber a few ppl stating problems with them,. IIRC it was the top mounts or something of that sort....
 
Mono Flex are inverted monotube design and Flex are twin tube. Mono flex is a step up above the Flex. I'm actually going to upgrade to the mono flex soon. Whatever coilover you decide on be sure you have access to getting them rebuilt.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Just about any part you put on your car that will improve it's performance isn't street legal, but we do it anyways so there's no need to worry about that...

Also they are both high quality parts so it's pretty much just personal prefrence..

Stance's are good from what I've read but lately I've been seening alot of ppl having some prolems, not sure if they have straightened that out yet but I do remeber a few ppl stating problems with them,. IIRC it was the top mounts or something of that sort....
that sucks. eh, hopefully the popos wont mind me being slammed :p ..
what could they do though if they noticed?

hmm.. sso, Tein Flex > KTS > Stance .. ? .. ah im really wanting to lean towards the KTS just because they're so much cheaper, but I dont wanna sacrifice quality..but the KTS still arent bad quality .. idk :12dunno .. don't the tein flex come in a kit while the KTS are just the coilovers alone?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Mono Flex are inverted monotube design and Flex are twin tube. Mono flex is a step up above the Flex. I'm actually going to upgrade to the mono flex soon. Whatever coilover you decide on be sure you have access to getting them rebuilt.
wanna sell me your type flex's then? :eek:
i'm still wondering if i should go with the flexs at all just because the price is so much steeper than the KTS.. i'd go for the flex if i can see how they are significantly better than the KTS ones.

..do you know about Shutoko Engineering in Industry? ..im planning to have them install whichever ones i end up getting..
 
you better roll and pull those fenders and quarter if you wanna keep tires on it
what are you referring to by the "if you wanna keep tires on it" part?
 
Yeah thats a real general/vauge comment, I dont see anywhere that it says he's gonna run and flush set-up or that set-up that Norm posted nor did it says he wasn't but let's just not assume things...
 
Well from what I know you have close to stock sizing wheels am I correct, you dont have anything like 9+20 rims right? cause I mean stock sized rims will give you more then enough room to play with...
 
word. if you're looking for flush fitment, then that's where you'll end up with problems. i'm a fan of cambered in front, and no camber in the rear :D

traction > camber
 
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