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Zenki:
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Which swap would you guys do?

  • CA18DET

    Votes: 16 6.1%

  • KA-T

    Votes: 105 40%

  • SR

    Votes: 67 25%

  • RB

    Votes: 76 29%
  • Total voters
    264
201 - 220 of 484 Posts
Discussion starter · #201 ·
^ thanks man, that's very nice to hear that someone appreciates the time i've put into this build other than myself haha.
I'm just getting a tad bit frustrated with it right now and i'm trying to get it narrowed down so it'll spark.
The problem:
I'm getting very weir spark patterns. It only sparks on cylinder #2 and occasionally 4.
And when it does spark, both are very weak. Not the typical "pop" you see normally.

My diagnosis: several different hypothesis actually.
1. The coil inside the distributor has gone bad. It's not producing as hot of a spark so it's just worn out over time.
2. Something could be wrong with the CAS. So it's not sending the correct spark timing to the distributor.
3. I'm fucked.

So what do you guys think? given the fact that the dizzy sat for over 1.3 years and worked before I pulled the motor.
Could it be something other than the diz, like wiring?
I've checked the visual integrity of the exposed wiring and it looks fine but that could be wayyyyyyyyy different inside the harness itself.
I am getting 12 volts to the distributor so at least I know it is definitely getting proper power.
 
#202 ·
id you reinstall your dizzy correctly? probably a stupid question cause look what all you've done so far... make sure you're at TDC with the cams, and when the dizzy is installed, the rotor button should be pointing just advanced of Cyl 1....
 
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Discussion starter · #203 ·
not so much there.
Even if I had the distributor installed incorrectly i'd still be getting some form of spark.
I've tried going plus 1 and minus 1 tooth on the dizzy as well and the same thing happened.
So i've definitely got this thing set right.
and no, it's not 180 out.
 
Discussion starter · #206 ·
what it's doing is that it's cranking over just fine, occasionally will fire but normally only on 1 or 2 cylinders, and then die.
I have a very weak spark on cyl.2 and occasionally 4.
Everything is set right and is in time so I've pretty much ruled that out as the culprit.
 
#207 ·
how are your wires? do they need to be replaced? do you have a new cap and rotor for the dizzy? or someone elses you can try out? did you check all of your plugs...you said youre getting 12v to the dizzy but are all of your other plugs right? are you getting fuel?
 
Discussion starter · #208 ·
brand new wires.
So those don't need replacing.
Brand new ngk iridiums.
Def. getting fuel.

Cap and button were replaced when I first got the car so those are still good.
I'm pretty sure it's wiring gremlins because yesterday I unplugged my afc's power source and It idled for a few seconds haha.
So I need to set my TPS and try it again.
then rewire the power for my afc because I think it was drawing it away from my ignition system.
Doh!
 
Discussion starter · #213 · (Edited)
well I tried 2 sets of injectors.
The vid is on 370cc's
I tried my 270's and it ran better, but it's still having a lot of misses.
My theory is that the spark is really weak, and IACV isn't set right.
So i'm going to have to find some way of pulling IACV off to adjust it
or some way of adjusting it on the engine (it's kind of rusted)

Also my apexi afc neo when plugged up kills any form of engine life.
I'll even start it with it unplugged and then plug it up and it kills it completely.
 
#217 · (Edited)
getting the IACV off is a pain in the ass.... you should unbolt the two bolts that are on the heater hose, the part that looks like a valve on the back side of the passenger intake plenum, and move it back (helps you get in there)... unplug the hose that runs into the intake( should actually be bolted to the intake, un bolt that as well), that runs along the firewall, it's about a inch in diameter... there should be a smaller hose as well... disconnect those, and it's a lot easier getting to the IACV.... i would suggest removing the piece (looks like a long nut and has a purple connector to it), first, makes pulling the who unit out really easy, but be careful, it has a copper washer, and pin thing and a small spring... so when you take it out, make sure you bring the purple connector piece down as you remove it, that way the spring wont come out..., there'll be four bolts holding the IACV in place, the bottom bolt with the hose bracket attached to it is a pain, you may want to bend it out a bit to make removal easier... then just undo the bolts, disconnect the brown connector, really hard to get it and on mine was kinda hard to get off... then pull it out.... while you have it out i suggest you take it apart and clean it with some carb and choke cleaner, to loosen up that spring.. pull off the solenoid, clean that as well... ready to go!!!

sorry if you already knew about this, but i just replaced mine a few days ago, the solenoid has been throwing my change engine light on since i bought it.... good luck!!! and even if you don't need to remove it, it's a good idea to clean it anyways to prevent it from clogging up on you...
 
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Discussion starter · #218 ·
agh!
cometic headgaskets suck!!!
i'm afeared the engine is going to have to come back out
=/
it's leaking wayyy too much oil to be sealing properly.
plus i've just pretty much decided to replace the wiring harness and start fresh with it.

FACK!
 
#219 ·
damn..... and it looked sooooooo sexy.... clean that oil up... get her back together, start anew....
 
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Discussion starter · #220 ·
well first i'm going to remove the cams and retorque the head to see if I can get it to seal.
If not then out pops the engine.
I've sourced a harness out and I'm just going to go from there.
 
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collegekid
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