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My S13 SR20DET Prep

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Discussion starter · #321 ·
Downpipe

My downpipe came in.

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I had a downpipe that I wrapped in exhaust wrap and sprayed with silicon but I sold it in favor of one with the flex section in it.
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Flex joint.

I also put a new shifter bushing on my shifter which apparently didn't have one on it to begin with. I hadn't noticed that when I removed it months ago.
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OEM shifter bushing part#: 32861-H7301 Place it on the end and one good pop with a hammer and it's on snug.
 
#322 ·
This is beautiful, a real work of art, I only hope my SR swap can come out half this nice
 
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Discussion starter · #323 ·
Thanks man! Does anyone know if the little metal clip that holds the MAF plug onto the MAF sensor is the same on the SR as the KA because I'm missing one and went to the junkyard today and there weren't any? I snagged one off a Stanza but it's too small. I've got it on the MAF but it does not fit well.
 
Discussion starter · #324 ·
She cranks!!!!!!

Over the last couple of days I installed the driveshaft, downpipe, P/S stuff, ran the vac/fuel lines, intercooler piping, shifter and the radiator. Yesterday I installed the gauge bezel and boost controller but did not connect the wires for power.
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This morning I filled the fluids and got a new battery. I had a friend who is a guru at engine swaps come down from Tuscaloosa and look over things. He adjusted the intercooler piping and I had the ground wire for my starter on the block, don't do this or it will eat your battery terminals up. After he checked some other things we connected the battery and turned the key and nothing happened...there wasn't a click for the starter or anything. Turns out that there was a wire running along the back of the firewall that the previous owner who did a auto to manual swap ran from the ignition to the starter, basically a starter wire. He ran this wire to the fuse block and connected it to one of the big plugs and...
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SHE CRANKED UP AND STARTED ON THE FIRST TRY!!!! He connected power to my guages and we got the oil pressure up to 50 PSI, I have to look up the oil pressure numbers on this engine and see where I'm at as I'm not sure about them at the moment.
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There are still some bugs that I have to fix like the throttle cable seems to be to short, when connected to the throttle pulley it won't go full rotation so it would rev up if it was connected. I have to adjust my alternator and P/S belts...one of them is squeaking and you can see them wobble because they are not tight! :greddy:
THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT READ THIS THREAD AND THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HELPED OUT WITH INFORMATION, TIPS AND COMMENTS! :dthumb


240SX FORUMS RULES!
 
#326 ·
as much as i hate to tell you but that permatex gasket maker you just put on your thermostat housing is corrosive. i go to gibson technical center and they just had a guy from permatex come and talk to us and he said never to buy the red high temp permatex products because they're corrosive. he said the only reason they still make it is "idiots still buy it" now im not calling you an idiot because if he never came to us i would have used the same shit but just for future reference the stuff is shit but so far man its lookin damn good
 
#328 ·
Niiiice. You should got to www.Jegs.com and order a single battery relocation kit. Get that battery in the trunk and out of the way for the FMIC piping that I'm sure your're gonna want later on! Also I would have removed that old fuel tank, disposed of the fuel and scrubbed all the bottom sediment and waste out. I'll bet there is even a thin layer of water at the very bottom of the tank (I'm a fueler in the military, they taught us about fuel tanks/Fuel or what-not in AIT) Other than that.... Phucking Phenominal!! Very clean!
 
Discussion starter · #331 ·
Thanks people, I'm thinking about removing the pump and pumping that gas out to be on the safe side. Also, After confirming that the fan works, fixing the throttle cable problem and bleeding the radiator, how long should I let the engine run at idle before I actually get in and start driving it around? Also again, to anyone with a DIF fan controller, the instructions are very vague about programming, so how did you program yours?
 
#333 ·
Positron, i just talked to Nissan and they cant find any part number to match the S14 water neck your ordered. i want to do the same thing for the water temp gauge, how did you order that neck?
 
Discussion starter · #334 ·
#335 ·
Glad to see you finally got it running. Just remember your motor was sitting in a junkyard for an unknown amount of time before you got it so go easy on it for a couple hundred miles. It's not like breaking in a rebuilt engine, you need to take your time with it.

Driving around should be fine as long as you have oil pressure so you don't need to let it idle for an extended period of time. Just don't put a lot of load on it.
 
Discussion starter · #336 · (Edited)
I had a coolant leak from the rear and it turns out that the small braided coolant line behind the block was loose so I was able to get back there with a 7mm wrench and tighten it but now I have another coolant leak where the S shaped heater hose connects to the firewall.
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The clamp is not loose so what's the deal? Also, I set my DIF fan controller to O on both fans and let the engine idle until the temp gauge got up to 150 degrees but the fans never came on so I shut it off...anyone?
 
Discussion starter · #337 ·
I forgot to mention that the S shaped hose wasn't leaking at all until I added more coolant and water to the radiator to fill it up. Could it be that I added too much coolant? There seems to be a bulge where the S shaped hose connects to the firewall.
 
#338 ·
You have honestly given me hope, while i dont have a ton of experience swapping motors, this thread had given me hope that my SR swap will be just as beautiful. And you dont have like a coolant overflow reservoir?
 
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#340 ·
its coming FROM th firewall connection? Is your passenger side floorboard gettin leaked on when you turn the heat on? Never had to mess with one before, but it mightt be a bad heater core? if not i'm just as stumped as you. Hope you don't have a blown head gasket and gettin pressure inside the cooling system and its just "giving" right there... but then your overflow should be "Overfull" if this was happening. maybe it's corroded a bit and has a tiny crack that you can't see. Consider yourself lucky.... I had a coolant line bust between the head and firewall, under the ac line and all that.... repairing it was like trying to finger a chick with her cootchie-cutters still on. :gaylaugh
 
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