unless you are going to spend the money to buy a seperate caliper in the rear i dont recomend this setup. A lot of people i know run them, and i myself have driven cars with them, im not a fan. If you are just into drifting for fun, then you could do whatever you want. BUt if you are into competative driving dont do it unless its done right. Unless you have a different caliper for e brakeing, there is a posiblitiy of locking all brakes (without being able to unlock them) if you use the ebrake in thr wrong sequence. this is something you never want to experience at 70 + mph. Stick with a stock ebrake with good pads, or just run a z32 rear brake setup.
I have to disagree on many levels. I have done quit abit of reasearch on this subject recently and I see no way that you can possible lock up all 4 breaks and not be able to unlock them if used in the wrong sequence if you dont rout the lines the dumb way. This is independ on the rear wheels, the fronts are left alone. You may have a stiffer petal feel for the fronts if you hit the foot break while the hydro hand break is depressed but they will just be more responsive than normal and will unlock the second you remove your foot off the break petal.
Also you loose reaction time when using the stock lever. You have to move your hand down, grab the lever, pull it up, and then push it down to release the breaks. With the hydro break setup you can mount it so all you have to do is push forward on an upright lever when you want to lock the rears, as soon as you want them unlocked all you do is let go of the handle (if you have a spring return like you should). I wouldnt go pull back with one because then you have to reach forward to grab the handle and in that amount of time you could have already had the breaks locked with a push forward design. If your in an understeer condition or are wanting to spin on purpos to avoid a spun car every milisecond counts.
And please on the z32 rear break setup being better for drifting. I think its a better setup for parking, but not for when the wheels are spinning at high speeds. Them little drumbs are gahy!
Think about my rear r32 setup (basicially the same as the z32) with the dual piston rear calipers and the 11.7" rotar. THAT is what I want clamping my wheels to stop them. Not some small caliper I retro fitted on the rear rotars or the stock rear calipers of the s13 or the tiny little shoes on the z32 breaks that hate heat.
I dont think your visualizing the setup properly. Think of it like this
master cylender output going to rear breaks----------------hand break---------------rear calipers
NOT
..............................................VVVhand break with its own fluidVV
master cylender---------------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^-----------rear calipers
the one above could actually back feed fluid back into the master causing it to over flow and catch fire or could cause the front breaks to recieve pressure.
With it setup properly you breaks should act completly normal because its like the hand break isnt even there. But when you push the lever it closes off any input from the master and creats rear only breaking. Yes, your fronts will recieve 100% of the foot breaking force if you do happen to use the foot break at that time making the car spin happy if you decide to hit the foot break at that moment but when do you ever hit the foot break and the ebreak at the same time unless your actually trying to spin out, or if your highly skilled and are just trying to get the most angle as possible. I think it makes for a very feasable way to rotate your car 180* fast and since Im wanting to do some gymkhana this year I see the benefits of this breaking system outweighing any possible downfall of it.
