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550rwhp rb25det - my build

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#561 ·
Here is a thought, why don't you have someone who really knows what they are doing look things over? I mean, for christs sake you don't have timing marks to set base timing with. It concerns me, because although you do seem to be motivated.. you have no freaking idea what your doing. At least it comes across that way.

If you were local I would gladly stop by and check it out. I know I come across as a dickhead like DriftX but this 23 pages of build thread just leaves me asking more questions.

Evan
 
Discussion starter · #562 ·
The TDC was set using another method which I don't understand from the shop. It's currently set up correctly, but the tuner that I went to (for the reason you just mentioned above, I wanted somebody else to look things over) said he didn't see any marks so he didn't want to adjust it. The shop I have worked with regularly suggests using the dyno and setting a min / max then figuring out timing with 5 degree marks using the AEM readout would be his preferred method since we don't have an original cover.

I am OCD and I love to second-guess myself only because I'm constantly reading and researching and asking more questsions. I may seem like an idiot, but hopefully I'm not. I am just not a mechanic and really want to learn more but at the end of the day it's not my best skill by any means. =)

With that said, I've had it looked over by 3 different shops and some friends and in general it's a very good build, very reliable after the first round of kinks were worked out, held up on the track on some hot days, and put down some solid numbers. Can we get more out of it? Of course we can, but you also have to balance the fact that the engine was relatively fresh early on and everything has been gradual.

I get sidetracked with things like exhaust leaks and wiring cleanup and not focused on dyno tuning. Oh well. It's an ongoing process and a learning process. Fun =)
 
#565 ·
Radianation said:
Well that would be too easy and very practical. Not my style. lol
Click to expand...
so your going to tune your timing map with questionable base timing, and 550 injectors.. right. good luck with that, let me know when you start your "my rb25 rebuild thread"
 
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#567 ·
Excuse me, your rb25.57 re-build.

get her running good man
 
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#569 ·
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#572 ·
Oh Dear....

1) For the timing. It MUST be setup with the EMS. It's not simple like the pfc, the ems is much much MUCH more complicated. You can't just set a CAS in the middle like with the PFC or stock ecu and be done. You MUST adjust the timing readout when you first setup the EMS so that it matches the actual timing.

2) For whatever reason nobody has been able to figure out what to do with the missing marks. Here's what you should do. Pull the crank pulley off, removed the outer belt retainer and expose the crank sprocket. Align the the cams and crank sprocket to TDC, look into the FSM if you don't know how. Align it as BEST you can. Reinstall removed parts. Look for the small raised portion on the lower t-belt cover at about the 1 o'clock position. That is one of your tdc indicators. As best you can mark the corresponding spot onto the crank pulley. That will be 0 deg btdc. Now measure the circumference of the pulley, divided by 360 and space your timing marks by the number you got from circumference/360.

3)READ the EMS instructions and do the initial timing set-up.

4)You don't need to select any injector profile with the ems. You just have to input your own information. The ems is not high or low impedance selectable.
 
#573 ·
Radianation said:
I just realized that this is the most viewed rb thread? dope.
Click to expand...
thats only cause everyone comes here to see what retarded shit your gonna say each day and to learn what not to do...

thanks for teaching the RB community what not to do..and how to avoid being a douche
 
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Discussion starter · #575 ·
eh? said:
Oh Dear....

1) For the timing. It MUST be setup with the EMS. It's not simple like the pfc, the ems is much much MUCH more complicated. You can't just set a CAS in the middle like with the PFC or stock ecu and be done. You MUST adjust the timing readout when you first setup the EMS so that it matches the actual timing.

2) For whatever reason nobody has been able to figure out what to do with the missing marks. Here's what you should do. Pull the crank pulley off, removed the outer belt retainer and expose the crank sprocket. Align the the cams and crank sprocket to TDC, look into the FSM if you don't know how. Align it as BEST you can. Reinstall removed parts. Look for the small raised portion on the lower t-belt cover at about the 1 o'clock position. That is one of your tdc indicators. As best you can mark the corresponding spot onto the crank pulley. That will be 0 deg btdc. Now measure the circumference of the pulley, divided by 360 and space your timing marks by the number you got from circumference/360.

3)READ the EMS instructions and do the initial timing set-up.

4)You don't need to select any injector profile with the ems. You just have to input your own information. The ems is not high or low impedance selectable.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this response, but let me clarify for you...

1) EMS is tuned properly with timing from day one. Thanks.

2) One guy didn't want to screw with it, probably to cover his own butt. Big deal? We have the ability to adjust timing sorted out. But thanks. What you described is basically what I already wrote? Did you not read that?

3) We have a fantastic EMS tune and it's been running great for months. I just want to make it better. When you tune something for more performance you have to be extra careful and take it in steps.

4) Injectors are fine. It's actually setup that way, despite my questions about the profile. I just wanted to make sure *all* settings were fine. I saw impedance settings in the EMS?
 
Discussion starter · #577 ·
The owner of the shop that does my work was able to determine TDC using his own methods when everything was originally put together. The tuner who specialized in AEM EMS did not see any timing marks when adjusting my tune so he didn't adjust the timing to be more aggressive, hence the conservative tune. When I asked the original mechanic about this he explained how he was able to determine the timing the first time around and said he would use a similar technique to handle the adjustments, which is basically what we've both discussed now.

I appreciate the offer to explain the timing marks, but while I already know that it's not something that I'm personally going to do. The problem has been solved, and to avoid confusion - the timing is fine as it is.
 
#580 ·
wow whats going on here.lol.I tryed that already.But why haven't you done it your self instead of going to some one else?You know if you need help I got your back man.Both Damper and Cam gears has marks.No one can miss that.
But i'm sure Radianation knows that man.Oh got banned from nico some *** mod felt in love with me and changed the words on some of my posts lol.
 
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