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Need help. No spark...

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det_414

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have no spark at all. I checked all the grounds and everything is grounded. Engine cranks, but doesnt start up and it has fuel.

I need a list of EVERYTHING I can try and do to fix it. The only thing i can think of right now is that i need a new distributor. But before i pay 300-500 for a new one. I want to make sure its nothing else.

I have had friends try and help me, we checked the fuses, grounds, and pulled my distributor, checked the timing on it, and still nothing.

I searched some, but didnt find what i was looking for so if there is a post i missed, please feel free to post a link to it on here...

thanks.

btw, its on a ka24de in a 1996
 
#2 ·
well, there's a few things to check first.

#1. Did you actually test for spark? You should pull the plug, set the metal on a ground, have someone turn it over for you and watch for flash. If it's flashing, you have spark. If this is the case, check your rotor for timing. also might throw a lil bit of fuel in the cylinders just to see if it'll fire. If that's the case, that means no petrol.

If it doesn't flash, also check the rotor, see if it's messed up, also inspect the cap. Inspect the plug wires and coil. Check all your grounds, and might possibly check the connection at the ECU.

Without more info, it's difficult to say what the issue is, but I hope some of this helps.
 
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#4 ·
Take the coil wire off and crank it. You should see the coil sparking, if not that's the problem. The coil sends spark to the D-Box and the the rotor delivers it to the spark plug wires followed by the spark plugs.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
ok... i dont know shit about electrical shit... so you will have to explain these things in depth to me... like wtf does a coil look like? cause everything i tested was to see if my rotor spinned when i cranked the engine.. and that is a yes. Next, the contact on the rotor, and the points look all burnt. they are black from where they touch. I checked for the 3rd time today, and every single ground is hooked up. And as for my ecu... it is too complicated for me because like i just stated, i suck with electrical.

I hope this info is enough for you guys to help me...

And FYI... i have a multimeter, just dunno how to use it. haha
 
#6 ·
don't worry about the meter at this point, no flash means that's not useable.

okay, to check for spark, you pull your plug from the motor, plug it back into the wire while it's out and stick the metal on the plug to a ground, and good bare metal on the engine is fine. let someone else give the engine a quick crank while you look at it closely. You should see s blue flash right at the electrode (the very tip of the plug). I will worn you, if you are touching the metal, you will be shocked multiple times, it won't do any damage, but it does hurt.

If your rotar has burn marks on it, change it. I also recommend changing your cap, and your plug wires as well. It's not expensive and well worth the time if it hasn't been done in a long while.

What color are the plugs, are they fouled (black), are they burnt to a crip? you may want to consiter changing them out as well.

These are really simple maintenance bits that you can do, not only to assure some reliability, but to also gain a few HP.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
plugs are brand new and gapped correctly...

Since i dont think my distributor has ever been changed... should i just replace the entire thing??? and fyi... my car has around 250k...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
duballstar said:
I thought you were selling it for an s2k???

Check to see if there is spark like eomund said then start working your way back to see when it was lost.
Click to expand...

I was going to sell it... but only problem is that nobody is going to take over payments or pay cash for it since it doesnt run... and well when i get it running, im not going to sell it, well... because it runs...
 
#9 ·
The D-Box just distributes spark, so if its not getting any then it cant distribute it. My bet is on the coil itself being burnt out.
The coil is the black cylinder type thing on the wheel well (it has a wire connecting to the center of the D-Box).
Disconnect that wire from the coil end and crank the engine. You should see the coil arching, if not your coil is shot.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
ya... thats a problem... im going to need a picture of what your talking about... because i dont have that...

And its dark now... so i cant go take a pic cause my phone doesnt have any flash... But Im 100% positive i dont have a black cylinder thing on the wheel well... nore do i have a spot on my distributor for it to plug in to....



actually go to this site...

and are you talking about the little gold cylinder thats on the distributor in this pic?

eBay Motors: 94-98 Nissan 240SX KA24DE 2.4L Ignition Distributor (item 120369405108 end time Feb-25-09 11:59:23 PST)

Tomorrow morning though... ill make sure i take a pic of my distributor to show you guys what im workin with....
 
#13 ·
det_414 said:
plugs are brand new and gapped correctly...

Since i dont think my distributor has ever been changed... should i just replace the entire thing??? and fyi... my car has around 250k...
Click to expand...
no no. Just the distributor cap and the rotor. And if you get wires too (i'd recommend it if you've never done it) it'll come with a new coil wire. Pretty much this means that everything from the plugs to the coil. Takes them out of the equation.
 
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#15 · (Edited)
go to your local autoparts store. advanced auto, o'reillys, etc.... they are not expensive at all.
to find your coil, find the wire plugged directly in the middle on top of your cap. that is your coil wire. it will be surrounded by the four plug wires. follow that coil wire to your coil. i think it will be on your drivers side fender well by the stut tower. another thing it could be is your ignition control module. it should be mounted on the braket that your coil is mounted on. it will have a small plug plugged into it with two or three wires coming out of the plug. i think they may be able to test those at your autoparts store.
 
#17 ·
i dont know. looking at that one in the pic, my written map from above may not help you. i didnt know they changed that much from the s13 to the s14. my bad. but you should still have a coil and ign control module. ill try to find something out for u.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
cause that could be broken and be the reason i have no spark... and ill end up wasting money on a cap and rotor... which i dont want to do, and thats why i want to buy a new distributor... cause i found a remanufactured on for like 150
 
#19 ·
det_414 said:
cause that could be broken and be the reason i have no spark... and ill end up wasting money on a cap and rotor... which i dont want to do, and thats why i want to buy a new distributor... cause i found a remanufactured on for like 150
Click to expand...
If it's never been changed, it's not a waste of money. Even if your car was running fine I'd recommend you change it. You're seriously looking at like 15 bucks to do this. It's called cheap insurance. Wires are a little more, and I recommend getting the better ones too if you change those out. You're looking at $35+.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
so... even if the little cylinder thing on the side of the distributor was fucked up.... getting a new cap, rotor, and wires would make it work anyways?
 
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