Nissan 240SX Forums banner
21 - 40 of 68 Posts
Discussion starter · #28 ·
As much money as you got, as far as the Highest Street driven N/A KA our record is 220whp, though SCCA GT3 Class KA's make upwards of 300whp N/A IIRC
 
Is really cool ur post i like it .... But do u know why some guys replace the fuel filter 95+ 240sx for the 300zx non turbo ??? I know its bigger but it really helps to increase ur RPMs ??? do you know anything of this???
 
Handy calculator for those designing their own intake manifolds... assumes you know how the concept of intake harmonics work. Harmonics were mentioned earlier in the thread, but I like this one for quick and dirty numbers.

Optimum Intake Runner Prediction

Two things to keep in mind when calculating runner lengths are the width of the plenum as well as the length of the ports in the head between the manifold and valve seats because both of those numbers will count towards the overall runner length in these calculations as far as I'm aware.
 
Basic but good N/A Info:
So I Decided To Bring This Back From The FA-Q Section Cause I still See Some recent N/A Threads in here, so.......
If we Could Keep This One Stickied In Here, I think it might work better. :D

Power Mods:
Header(The Intake and Exhaust Mani Seem To Be The Problem Area's Of The KA So I would Assume a Decent Gain from This)

Test Pipe or Hi-Flow Cat(Random Tech is said to Flow the Best)

Exhaust(More Flow = More Power.)

Custom CARI(Cold Air Ram Intake - The One that goes where the Battery is suppose to be, Increase Flow & Response - Or Any Intake Will Do)

KAE Engine Pistons in DE Block: 89 = 9.1 C/R 90 = 8.6 C/R (KAE Pistons Will Give High C/R Then what rated for The KAE Engine, i.e. 9.1 C/R KAE Pistons on the DE will give you a Final 11.6 C/R - Also Increasing Bore = More Displacement, Doing some Research It seems that The Valve Reliefs Do Not Align so Using Aftermarket Cams w/ SOHC Pistons should not be done**DO NOT EXCEED 248/248 OEM Cam Set-Up)

Lightweight Pulleys(Larger Diameter Can Also Reduce Resistance)

Port & Polish Head(Remove As little material As possible but smooth Rough Surfaces - Increases Velocity)

Decking/Shaving Head(Yield Higher C/R)

Advance Timing(I would Advance No More then 5*, 3* To Be Safe)

Some Sort Of Intake Manifold(ITB's Is About The Best N/A intake There is, If Not Porting and Matching The Intake Can Yield Good Gains Also)

Throttle Body Spacer(Seems To Work For Other Cars So Why Not Try it)

Throttle Body Boring(Increases Response and Flow)

Upgrading Fuel system(Really Not Needed But I'm sure after all these Years Your Systems Getting Old So Do it a Favor, and Upgrade Maybe)

Upgrading Your Ignition(More/Stronger/Better spark = Better Burning Fuel, so........)

Cams(I would Only Go Up To 264's, I Like Having Smooth Idle, Yield 12HP?)

Valve Springs & Retaiers(stiffer Springs Allow for More RPM and Resist Coil Bind, Interchangeable with CA, VG, and RB20)

Valves(Over Sized Valves Allow for More Air Flow, But Going Too Big will Reduce The Flow Velocity, SO Bigger Isn't Always Better, Great For Turbo Thought, i Would Stay in The .5mm Oversized For N/A)

Fine Tuning(To Top off Your whole Set-Up you should look Into and ECU to Fine Tune Your Set-Up, Leaning Your A/F Ratio To That of 12.5-13 is Suppose To Be Optimal for N/A )


Mods To Make The KA Feel Good - Not So Much Power:
Clutch(I Prefer One That grips at least 50HP More Then What I'm Making)

Lightweight Flywheel(Reduce Rotational Mass and Resistance To Rev Up - Revs Faster, Not higher)

Lightweight Driveshaft(Aluminum, Carbon Can Be used But it's Very Expensive)

LSD(More Grip = More Power To The Ground)

Lightweight Internals(Well since High C/R Pistons Add HP I don't think it could be here, But Lighter Then Stock Rods and a Knifed and Polished Crank can Give Better Response and Rev Up Faster)


Things Resisting Power:
Electric Fans(Remove Clutch Fan - Less Resistance)

Power Steering(I Like Mine, but it can be Removed)

A/C(You Can Remove It but it gets damn hot here so, NO!)

EGR(Doesn't Do me Much So It's Gone)

Intake Mani Coolant Bypass(Bypass The Coolant to the Intake Mani cause all it does is heat it up when you get going so, useless to me)

Secondary Intake Butterfly's(Used For Low End, But Lets Face it, w/ a 96mm Stroke it's got more then enough Low-end)
Synthetic Fluids(Said To Reduce Resistance But IDK, Worth A Try)

Charcoal Canister(Well Doesn't Really Add or Resist Power but it's dead weight so)

Crank Scraper/Windage Tray(It cuts windage In The Crank Case and Can Free Up about 5hp)


Also Reducing Unsprung Weight:
Suspension Components(I don't think they're much but whatever)

Rims and Tires(Lighter than Stock but Giving more Grip, is a definite Plus)

Probably The Best Mods You Could Ever Do: Weight Reduction

Link To Me Original N/A Guide Thread
awesome info.. that should do it.. for a N/A ka
 
ok i have a 240 nontubro and my friend has a 300 turbo... we race all the time why do i win? u think its because his car is missed up because i thought the 300 was made to over power the 240?

and do u think a garrett t04B is a good turbo to go with?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Either he dont know how to drive or that motors on it's way out or something of the like.
Good turbo would be a T3-60 .48 A/R You can expect full boost ~3000 and it'll support upwards of 350+
 
21 - 40 of 68 Posts