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Seafoaming my engine

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Stryfe

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on seafoaming my engine because of it's high mileage, and to also pinpoint an exhaust leak.

I've read this tutorial(just to be sure of things)
How to Seafoam your engine the right way.|| Complete DIY ||: 240SX Forum / 180SX Forum / Silvia Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

But, my question is do I add 33% to the crankcase, 33% to the fuel, and then start it up and add the other 33% through the brake booster line?

OR do I add 33% to the crankcase, start it up, let it idle, add 33% to the fuel, start it up, let it idle, and then add 33% through the brake booster line?

I plan on doing this during my next tune-up, since the it reduces the viscosity of oil anyway..
 
#2 ·
I wouldn't put it in the crankcase, but I put it in the gas and intake (booster line). If you do put it in the crank case, change your oil out very soon after.
You can do the same thing with ATF also, and its a lot cheaper. Just don't put it in the gas, lol.
 
#4 ·
"Seafoam" is a brand name. ATF is the same thing, Anyways, there is directions on the can when you buy it. You wanna change your oil shortly after no matter what. Don't change it right when you do it, drive it alil cause all the crap has to work its way off the walls. Just read the can!
 
#7 ·
What most people don't realize is, when you "clean" the inside of your engine with ( -Product name here- ) all that shit goes down into the oil pan. It will also clean out the oil pick up tube screen.
I'm pretty sure the oil is sucked up from the pan, forced though the oil filter and so on, so by cleaning all that caked up oil/sludge from the pick up screen, you may actually be damaging your oil pump depending on what gets through.
Most engine flush company's say right on the bottle to remove the oil pan, and clean the pick up tube/oil pan after running there oil.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
blackrms13 said:
dont be lazy...just pour it in the crankcase, drive it for like 5-10 miles and change the oil+filter
Click to expand...
It's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just changed my oil last week, lol!



Oh, and another question. I didn't want to open another thread and make more clutter. My CEL is on ( i turned it off by resetting the codes though) and I read my ECU codes, and came up with "34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor."

Does this just mean that it needs to be replaced, or may it possibly be caused from new spark plugs? I say that because I read that the knock sensor has something to do with retarding ignition timing to prevent detonation or something.

In the KA the knock sensor is under the intake manifold so I guess I'll have a look at it tomorrow. But could this be caused because of my new spark plugs and a gap my car doesn't like...?
 
#10 ·
#11 · (Edited)
OP, i also have a ka24de. i just take the hose off the brake booster. but if you notice, there are two hoses connected to a baffle that is mounted in the middle of the firewall. remove the hose after the baffle so that you dont damage it. also i had some leftover silicone hose from my intake that i attached to the booster hose so that i could rev the throttle body & also hold the bottom of the can & with the other hand feather the amount of intake. just my .02$
 
#12 ·
*ka24e* said:
What most people don't realize is, when you "clean" the inside of your engine with ( -Product name here- ) all that shit goes down into the oil pan. It will also clean out the oil pick up tube screen.
I'm pretty sure the oil is sucked up from the pan, forced though the oil filter and so on, so by cleaning all that caked up oil/sludge from the pick up screen, you may actually be damaging your oil pump depending on what gets through.
Most engine flush company's say right on the bottle to remove the oil pan, and clean the pick up tube/oil pan after running there oil.
Click to expand...
Yeah you will hear of shops trying to sell "engine flushes" and crap but there is a risk not only clogging up the strainer but maybe worse(an oil gallery-not sure if I spelled that right). If you want to put it in the crank case I would make sure to drop the pan can clean it out. But what I've been doing is 50% in to the brake booster hose (intake) then cut it off and let it sit over night crank it up and watch her smoke smoke smoke like it's blown. I was taught this from an old guy whose been working on cars waaaaay before we were born. But I would think that just running it through the intake and letting the engine run until it stops smoking is just as good and then either add some in the gas or buy some injector or fuel system cleaner. I've also been told, always made me very scared and would not do unless you know what your doing (I'm sure the KAs can take it lol) is sucking up some water through the booster to loosen up the carbon before trying to burning it up. I don't like messing with the crank case, just make sure you change the oil, and you really want to get an idea of whats going on at least pull off the valve cover or easier yet look in the oil filler hole and look for sludge with a light and mirror (don't drop it lol).
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
Stryfe said:
So even if I don't apply seafoam to the crankcase, I will still have to change my oil?

I was planning on just putting it in the booster line and gas.
Click to expand...
the thing is you should change your oil anyways its kind of a package deal. just do it the oil change will help the car also
 
#20 ·
SixpointSocket said:
I've never cleaned my MAF, to afraid to do it, what would be the correct way to do it with the least amount of risk?
Click to expand...
its not really that bad. just get CRC brand mass airflow cleaner, & just dont touch the little springs & keep the tip of the spray straw like 8-10" away. i spray it about 3-5 times in pulses of .5sec. you def dont want to overspray it. that stuff dries soo fast i dont even think overspraying it would hurt. but i just do what the directions say.
 
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