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gt2871r on RB25DET?

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alex37211

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So the rb25det comes with a t3 turbo with ceramic fins. As I understand it, this turbo is only good for around 12-13 psi or so without breaking. And 300 rwhp is obtainable at this level.

Now...if a gt2871r (.86) were adapted to the rb25 and set to...i dunno...16-20 psi or so, would the result be quicker spool time and and same end result of 300+ rwhp?

After all, that .86 trim 2871r is said to be capable of 400+ hp on sr20's.
 
#4 ·
alex37211 said:
So the rb25det comes with a t3 turbo with ceramic fins. As I understand it, this turbo is only good for around 12-13 psi or so without breaking. And 300 rwhp is obtainable at this level.

Now...if a gt2871r (.86) were adapted to the rb25 and set to...i dunno...16-20 psi or so, would the result be quicker spool time and and same end result of 300+ rwhp?

After all, that .86 trim 2871r is said to be capable of 400+ hp on sr20's.
Click to expand...

if those are the numbers you are aiming for then you're better off on the stock turbo. the ceramic blades all depend on if it's series 1 or not. series 2 had metal blades. and even with the ceramics guys over seas are running up to 17 psi without issues. the tune is what's gonna make or break your turbo and your engine


and the flange...why even change to a t2 flange? you can get the 2871 with a t3 flange
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Well the thing is, I've already got the 2871r from when I was planning an sr20 build.
But I've decided not to use the t2 flange because I would have to use an adapter plate and then I couldn't use my down pipe. And upon my research, I have found the highest some ppl risk running their ceramic turbos is 15psi and that is considered brazen. I have heard 10-11 psi is the most you wanna do.
Now I'm torn between buying a t3 hot side for the 2871 or getting a gt3076r. I want the quickest spool time possible. And around 325-350 whp.
 
#6 ·
haha...when you say the highest people risk is.....you mean people here in the USA...comming from the land of skylines i can assure you people run them all day long at 17 psi. i'm running my ceramic at 1 bar and have been doing so for a year with zero issues.

that being said....if i were you i would get a t3 housing for the current turbo and be done with it
 
#8 ·
robbie2883 said:
the ceramic blades all depend on if it's series 1 or not. series 2 had metal blades. and even with the ceramics guys over seas are running up to 17 psi without issues.
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man, are you sure. i have never heard of a differance in the turbo's between series 1 or 2. i have a series 2 and would love for this to be true but everything i have read and i have done alot of it, says they are ceramic and if boost over 14 then your turbo will fail its just a matter of time.

but please, i would love to be wrong on this.
 
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#13 ·
maybe there turbo's are different over there, i dont know. i do kmow i have thought about getting mine rebuilt with a steel wheel, i wonder how much i caould boost with that effiecently?
 
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#15 · (Edited)
jamelin said:
definately bad advise lol..how about u run ur shit on 17 psi and we'll see how long it lasts..haha a month? maybe u'll get lucky
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you obviously can't read! lol the only bad advise is coming from the people with nothing more then internet experience. as i said....i'm not jsut speaking out my ass....this ain't my first rodeo with the rb's! ;)


anyway....ceramic or not...the tuning is what's gonna blow your turbo more then anything else. egt's are key in making ANY turbo survive. don't listen to all the retards here in the states....do some digging in the foreign forums if you want to learn some real facts. and don't even get me started on the gen after the ceramics having nylon compressor wheels! lol
 
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