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KA24E Intake and other questions

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Panda_Eats_240

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Here's my intake problem I've been searching on for weeks. Just for complete clarity i'll post quick little photoshops.

Here's a pic of mine
Image


(yes i know that hose is crimped, that's not the problem here)
The problem I'm having is why that breather filter is attached right to the intake.

For clarity:
Image


Image


I would like to know what those hoses are hooked up to and what they do so i can learn what goes on here.
I saw in the "CAI DIY" on 240sxtech that he attaches a breather filter onto the AIV.
So what exactly is the AIV, is it necessary to attach a breather filter onto it after installing an aftermarket intake?

I don't want this thing to be BS rigged. i want it done right.


Just some other small things. What is this that's all taped up?
Image


Still learning as you can see.
 
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#2 ·
AIV is probably the same as the idle air control valve if I had to guess.

You don't want to have a breather filter there, you're just sucking in air that the MAF hasn't had a chance to meeter. But I don't really understand what else you did, so I can't tell you what else you should be doing.


edit - how did so much snow get in the engine bay?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
We got some strong wind and it blew through. I don't like the idea of it having been there since there seems to be suspicious wiring going on everywhere.

Weather is finally warming up, gotta love it.



I'm going back out tomorrow to finish up my sleepy eye wiring with a toggle switch : )
Do you know what that is all taped up in the picture above?
 
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#4 ·
AFAIK there's only supposed to be 2 vaccuum lines there. The third one you should just cap off/seal it/ whatever you feel like. Take off that breather filter and just save it for another day when you might need it for a different project.

You can see it on the bottom left corner.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thank you sir, i even called for a rubber grommet to seal it off before ( i knew that bung should have been blocked off or cut and welded.) So I'm guessing you would use a breather filter when installing one onto a DOHC.

That's the exact diagram i was looking for all over but couldn't find. Maybe I forgot the emissions section and payed to much to vacuum diagrams.

I'll have to get a pic of this little relay I'm missing next time i go out to my car. in the smaller black fuse box in the engine bay on the drivers side, I'm missing the top for a relay. I don't remember which one.

And do you know whats going on with all that tape? I don't know if i should unwrap it all to see.
 
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#6 ·
I only have 1 vac port on my intake pipe. The only hose I'm using is going to the IACV valve, the valve cover vent hose and small (3/8 or 1/4) vac line is capped. Now I do have all the vac lines removed (the only vac lines I'm using are the IACV, brake booster and FPR) so you should have two ports. Don't put a breather filter on the intake pipe, put a cap on it. You will be pulling in unmetered air and will cause your car to run rough, and possibly lean.
As far as the AIV, just pull it, cap the exhaust and intake and be done with it.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I just got back from putting on a new hose and putting bondo over the extra bung (couldn't get a grommet plug that small).

Things are going good, she runs.
My mechanic said it was running on 3 cylinders, not sure if he fixed it but i owe him $200 something dollars so I'm assuming he did, and they also fixed some wiring. He said it's dumping fuel pretty bad, and he doesn't have the equipment to tell him what's causing it. So tomorrow I'm bringing it over to another place he told me to go to. He said it's probably just a sensor and will cost about $20-$30. So I'm not complaining.


Edit: You posted at the same time as me. What and where is the AIV. I keep hearing about it and want to understand this. Right now i have the two hoses on my intake pipe and bondo'd the extra one
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
I think i remember the mechanic say it ran a code 12, now this means the MAF right? Which would go along with his assumption of it being a sensor.


Edit: Do you think the AIV let gunk to get onto the MAF, then causing the fuel dumping problem my mechanic was speaking of? Since it will give it a wrong reading.
I'm getting happier the more i learn about how i may just have to clean a few things and not pay any more money.
 
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#10 ·
Cleaning it (with MAFS cleaner) is worth a shot, but its more than likely bad if it threw a code. Take the sensor out of the housing and look at the wires. If one or both wires are broken, the sensor is obviously bad. It's held in with two phillips screws and uses a rubber o-ring gasket (you can reuse it).
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Alright i'll do so in a bit. I guess it could easily be bad since it's all taped up with electrical tape.

Do you know anybody with an extra MAF that i could take off their hands?
 
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#13 ·
yeah my car also had a rough idle problem. and when i tried to drive it, it would jerk cause it wasn't getting a correct reading. i took my MAF off and it was gunked up!!! i cleaned it with a q tip (your probably not supposed to do that, but, i was EXTREMELY careful doing so) i cleaned both the MAF and the temperature one. car cranks and drives smoothe now. idle problem is also fixed.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Did you use rubbing alcohol while cleaning it?
I probably won't get a chance to get over to my car tonight. Could the MAF being gunked up or broken cause is to run really rich?
 
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Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
Well i had to go against that and use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. I literally only have $4...

It felt unreal to actually drive my car today. But it's very boggy and groggy feeling, and feels like i don't have much power.

Just a couple minutes ago i was able to get back to my car.
My engine shakes really bad. I was tinkering with the MAF wiring while it was on and found that if i put more pressure on this loose half-assed wire, that it would stop shaking and idle a HELLL of a lot smoother.


Oh and for the intake i have to use duct tape to seal off the unnecessary bungs. I know...

I've got a lot to say so sorry if it comes at random intervals.
I'm also running very rich, as in black smoke coming out of the exhaust pretty decently. And again i have to mention the loss of power, i know i don't have the experience to tell how the car 'should' feel like. But i can't even spin the tires sometimes.

Well I'll end it there. Tomorrow after school i'll be fixing up the MAF wiring so it will never happen again. Unless somebody knows a site where i can get the female connector to the MAF. The one that's wired to the car/ECU, not the MAF itself.

As soon as i can get some real plugs, I'll remove the whole AIV assembly.
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
Got code 55 - "everything is OK" from the ECU tonight.

Blows out a LOT of white smoke from exhaust, still shakes bad, rough.
Runs rich enough to get the plugs all covered in lack oil, and wont let it start because of it. So i have to clean off each plug if i want it to start again.

I still need some input, don't let this die.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
But the thing is, is that i'll have to clean out all of the plugs from oil and put them back in just for it to start.

Do you think i should check the timing first so i might have a chance to have an easier time Seafoaming it and whatnot?
If so then I might need some help on that...I can't find the markings or pin that's posted in the guide on 240sxtech.

I'll go get some Seafoam or order it if nobody around here has it.
 
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