Nissan 240SX Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Jareds RB20 S13 project

1 reading
Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 621 Posts
#22 ·
i got it from....ummmmm i forgot haha but they tested it before and after. and times were spretty much the same. but yes jared i feel you. we can leave the topic of your stripped interior out of your build thread :)
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
i really dont mind it..like i said i have nothing but time, not to mention theres a LOT of wires that can go. i'm about half way de-loomed. then its on to deleting wires (which is only a pain cuz you gotta look through wire diagrams)
 
#26 ·
then what happens when you cut the wrong thing? why not just leave it? what are the wires doing if there just sitting there?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
taking up space..not looking good. not to mention all the plugs that wont be used. im getting rid of a lot of things (all the a/t connectors, cruise control, rear wiper, rear speakers etc.) so that'll be unused connectors that just sit there and take away from the overall look of the car, i like a clean look
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
exactly what im doin man. im hiding it all, and what i cant hide (dome light wiring for ex.) im removing.

im about half way done de-looming the harness. then i need to trim it down and order in some loom and heat shrink
 
#32 ·
Jared, I have done the same thing to my S30. I think the thing ppl don't realize is that your lose weight from more than just the wiring when you strip the interior. I have a new aluminum dash and aluminum door panels covered in Alcantara. I think it easily rivals the best stock interior. Anyways, I have shaved a lot more than 10 pounds for sure. The stripped wiring just makes it look clean and uncluttered.
My advice to anyone doing this is to label every plug before you remove them, if you don't know what they are. If you already removed it, lay it out in the location that it goes and use the FSM to ID everything. When you are not sure on something, do some research and ask on here.
My S30 had such old wiring that I essentially wired it from scratch using only what I need. Then again, I have toggle switch turn signals, hazards, etc. No A/C, no wipers, no P/S, etc. My dash weighs only 2 pounds, etc. Anyone that has hefted a factory dash and dash frame knows that stuff is very heavy.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
thanks man, MUCH appreciated. its nice to have someone NOT question what im doing for a change. im keeping the stock dash, but i'll be doing aluminum door panels like you. im keeping power windows and mirrors just for ease (i think) although i may get rid of power mirrors in favor of something aftermarket that i would adjust by hand. on the door panel im plannin on putting switches for the windows and possibly locks (although i can lock/unlock with the key from the drivers side), again just to make things easier. as for wiring, everything was labeled and i have the fsm that im RE labeling everything with so that i can match it all up a lot easier

when you did your aluminum door panels how exactly did you go through building them if you dont mind me asking? did you just kind of lay down a sheet of aluminum and see if you needed to shave anything? is it riveted or bolted onto the door skin?
 
#34 ·
are you going to use the rb gauge cluster?? and i give you credit for pulling the work off..
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
harness is 90% de-loomed. i plan on getting the rest of the loom off, possibly install the clutch pedal in the car tomorrow, and maybe start removing wires.

if anyone knows what the headlight timer, kickdown switch, and check connector do though, that would help me out greatly
 
#38 ·
email carl h(he did my harness) and he might offer assisance to you..

also this place youre getting this setup from. do they sell the r32 crossmembers by themselfs???
 
#39 ·
JaredP said:
when you did your aluminum door panels how exactly did you go through building them if you dont mind me asking? did you just kind of lay down a sheet of aluminum and see if you needed to shave anything? is it riveted or bolted onto the door skin?
Click to expand...
Mine is an S30 so it is different, but I will tell you what I did. No worries. The stock door panels on an S30 consist of a stamped steel part that is the upper curved shape to wrap around the top of the door and curl down into the opening for the window to crank up out of. The lower portion is essentially a really heavy non-corrugated cardboard that is riveted to the metal piece. After that, holes are drilled in the cardboard to allow the window crank and other stuff to poke through. The door handle is bolted through the door panel to the door itself, but is still attached to the door panel. After that, the door is covered in vinyl. Butterscotch and brown, in my case. :gaah:
What I did was strip the door panel apart and take just the upper steel piece. I reshaped it so it fit a bit better and then used a sheet of aluminum cut to the same shape as the cardboard. I traced it out. The cardboard panel was more 3D, but I eliminated the interior handle (you can also relocate it) since it was almost fouling with the cage. Following that (in my case with what I am doing), you can remove the windows, crank, etc. and then cut out the interior portion of the door itself; leaving just enough meat around the perimeter for the door panel to bolt to. Then you can get inside of the door and remove the reinforcing beam and use an aircraft die to cut holes along the jam of the door (the bottom and back) to remove some more weight.

In your case, with the power locks, you have the lock pin right on the door handle assy, no? Just use that, I'd say. The big thing is to remove the door panel and see how flat the door itself is. That will tell you how easy it will be to replace it. Again, the tricky part is getting 3D pieces grated into the panel (like the door handle) and making the curve for the top where it sticks down in the window slot without it interfering with the window.
For yours, it's obviously a different car, so I don't blame you for doing things differently. Mine was already caged and partially stripped when I got it. Not to mention the cardboard on the door panels was weak. I would almost shave the door pockets and then cover the door panel in two-tone Alcantara. Black for the outer portion and your choice of color on the inner piece where the door handle and window controls are. I guess it all depends on what it looks like when you get a door panel off and see how tricky it will be.
You see how your door handle is angled? That will be tough to redo with a sheet of aluminum depending on what kind of leeway you have to remounting it flat. Likewise, the door linkage will require it to be close to what it was. You can get aftermarket cable systems, but they are a PITA to route with pullies. That, or you might need a piece of steel or (preferably) stainless steel round rod to re-form a new linkage.
Hope that helps. :)
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
that helped a lot man. thanks so much for typing that out. basically what i was planning on doing was use just flat aluminum, not really shape it in any way. i've got the door panel off and i can cut/grind any of the protrusions from the door skin (metal and what not) so the aluminum would sit flat, leave a cut out for the door handle and lock and basically use self tapping screws along the outside. nothing over the top, but something like this:
Image


i would also cover it with something/paint it black. then i would go and get toggle switches for the power windows/locks.

im not 100% on what im going to do with the doors yet, but they will not be the stock door panels. i need to look around the door and see what i need to keep where so everything will still work

edit:

so i got a pic of the door. basically theres nothign thats gonna get in the way, im gonna get rid of the power mirror wiring (they can be adjusted by hand) and probably the lock wiring, only keeping the power windows (possibly) and the speakers.

circled in green is where the aluminum door panel will sit, and circled in blue is the one place on the door skin i need to cut out so that the aluminum can sit flat
Image


also, if anyone knows what this little black box here is for:
Image


theres a plug that goes to it and its not on any of the wiring diagrams i have and i want to know if i need to keep it
 
21 - 40 of 621 Posts
About this Discussion
620 Replies
33 Participants
Last post:
Future_RHD_SR20
Nissan 240SX Forums
posts
1.6M
members
94K
Since
2002
A forum community dedicated to Nissan 240SX owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, engine swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
S13 240SX (89-94) New Member Introductions General Tech S14 240SX (95-98) KA24DE & KA24E