Nissan 240SX Forums banner
141 - 160 of 268 Posts
Discussion starter · #141 ·
Fuck.. i'd reuse your old oil this car is soo damn clean.. i know its coming so ima just wait til you replace the wing too... i think we all were kinda scared of this build when you slapped those original aero pics up.. then you began to stroke us so gingerly with part after part of pure win. Hero of the year!!

lol...

Thanks mate!

You know, there is more ;)
 
Discussion starter · #144 ·
Cheers!

The CA is a very good motor, like a baby RB. Don't worry about the block lasting. A lot of the tuners in our club, Nissan Owners Group Sweden Welcome to Nissan OGS have around 400hp and some even more.

When a block shoot, it is more a question about the rods or the piston wrist pin giving in.
Being thorough and carefull when building and using good quality parts make the CA very good.

phresh, ill, sick, dope, cool, clean, sexy....pick your complement sir, very very good job, car looks good, how do you like the CA against the other motors? ive been told that around 350hp the blocks crack
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
Bought a large box of oil.

(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars

(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based

(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)

(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid


Image
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
Thanks pal.

Actually I had the idea to twin charge it some years ago but decided to install a single turbo. Reason why was the easier setup. I also thought about a turbo compound install (one small and one big turbo in series). That is a very good way to achieve both low rev power and high end power.

I am just a working guy like all other enthusiasts ;) ... sort of :D
 
Haha I want what kind of work you do. Well maybe not the work but at least the pay check lol despite the obvious high cost, I'm surprised you didn't go twincharged or compound turbos after seeing all of the other stuff you have done. Either way, it is a very impressive build. I'm guessing it's a drag car since it seems like it would have problems with lag for drifting, DD, or track?
 
Sweet car, man you seem meticulous as it shows through in your car and thread. O did i say sweet, thats an understatment of a bairly nominal amount.
 
Discussion starter · #156 · (Edited)
The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.
Image


Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.
Image


Here it has been dismounted.
Image


A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.
Image


In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).
Image


Original stud dismounted.
Image


In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.
Image


It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.
The valve I will mount in the filter holder.
Image


Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).
Image


Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.
Image


Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.
Image


Filter relocation kit.
Image
 
I used a greddy relocation kit with a grex oil sensor adapter plate that runs the oil cooling.A small-3an Line from the sensor plate to the turbo oil feed.Turbo runs cooler then from its OEM feed location.
I do this on twin and bigger turbos.Heat will become you worst enemy.Wrapping exhaust and many things that could be affected by heat specially on the exhaust side is a most.Good luck
The relocation kit goes to the block.That oil cooler thermo plate doesn't look right.
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
I used a greddy relocation kit with a grex oil sensor adapter plate that runs the oil cooling.A small-3an Line from the sensor plate to the turbo oil feed.Turbo runs cooler then from its OEM feed location.
I do this on twin and bigger turbos.Heat will become you worst enemy.Wrapping exhaust and many things that could be affected by heat specially on the exhaust side is a most.Good luck
Thanks.
It's a good suggestion regarding the oilfeed. I will look into that.

I have made quite a lot of effort to keep important areas less warm.
Heat wrapping is already on the agenda. Furtermore the turbo is ceramicaly coated on the outside and on the inside to prevent heat transfer (the exhaust house). Even the heat barrier (a cup shaped protection) inside the turbo has been coated to stop the warm exhausts entering the bearing housing.

The pistons have a heat barrier/coate on the top surface to reduce the heat transfer into the pistons.

Lots of cold air, water and oil is used to keep things colder.

I use the warm exhausts to spin the turbo instead of letting it over heat the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on.

When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.

Image
 
141 - 160 of 268 Posts