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Quick question about rod knock in a KA24E

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#2 ·
will need a block rebuild.. or maybe just a replacement of certain parts but those parts comes in sets so just rebuild the block.. but more so don't buy a car with rod knock.. unless your replacing the engine.. or plan on rebuilding.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Well I'm buying it for a swap but that's not til next summer so for right now I thought I'd get the ka-e running so I could get it road worthy and make sure everything feels right on the chassis. So just a rebuild kit or the bottom end out of a used ka-e should work? There's plenty of used engines around here which is why I'm asking. And thanks for the quick response deez.
 
#4 ·
Replacement of certain parts like the following:

- Rod bearings
- Main bearings
- Depending on the damage, line bore the mains
- Depending on the damage, line bore the rod(s) and check for squareness
- Machine the crank back to spec if possible, or find a good used crank
- Rebalanced the crank and check the straightness of it
- Since one if not all the rods have to be machined to ever work again, re-weighting of the rods will be necessary for proper balance.

It may not even be rod knock. It could be several things causing the ticking/knocking sound.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
*ka24e* said:
Replacement of certain parts like the following:

- Rod bearings
- Main bearings
- Depending on the damage, line bore the mains
- Depending on the damage, line bore the rod(s) and check for squareness
- Machine the crank back to spec if possible, or find a good used crank
- Rebalanced the crank and check the straightness of it
- Since one if not all the rods have to be machined to ever work again, re-weighting of the rods will be necessary for proper balance.

It may not even be rod knock. It could be several things causing the ticking/knocking sound.
Click to expand...
Alright thanks a lot ka. Hopefully it isn't bad. Would you suggest a rebuild kit or getting a new bottom end and swapping that out?
 
#6 ·
It depends. You may open it up to find a really tore up crank journal, or you may find the damage is very minimal. If you can find a decent crank I would go with that. At least with a good crank you know your good to go as far as the rotating assembly.
I have a couple SOHC cranks and a few sets of rods if you want to go that route.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Alright. I'm checking it out tomorrow and will give a better report on it. Hopefully picking it up Monday or Tuesday. I mean it's in pretty good shape. Needs a rear bumper and maybe tail light assembly. That's it far as I can tell. $700. Oh can a small dent in the bumper/taillight assembly mean any kind of frame damage? I've heard that the rearend can be damaged a lot more easily than other areas. Anyways wish me luck guys!

I assume all KA24E's are the same? There's one near me from a 92 Stanza.
 
#8 ·
Negative, the trans won't bolt the stanza block , the dizzy will hit the firewall and the intake is 180'd from the KA24E in the 240sx and trucks.
Don't have any spare computers do you? I'd be happy to let a crank and some rods go for a decent setup, even if its somewhat older.
 
#10 ·
Well I would preferably want a desktop, but I can pretty much guarantee you I have everything you need to build a SOHC KA. I actually traded another member on here for a computer in exchange for some parts. He was also located in TN, lol. I did a hand to hand exchange while i was on a road trip.

Defiantly make sure its not something like lifter tick tho. It would suck to rebuild an engine only to find out a coupe lifters were bad.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I'm about to leave now so I'll update you in a few hours. Gotta drive almost 4hrs. FML I have the 240 disease....I don't have an extra desktop but I'd be happy to find a super cheap one on CL and trade it to you. It may or may not be very good but it meets your requirements of a desktop lol
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
STL? St Louis? And I'm not getting the car. The idiot lied about there not being any major damage. The spare tire well was pushed in about halfway and the frames had tons of dents like he was going 20mph over speed bumps and bottoming out. Sigh back to square one. Unless you have an S13 to go with those spare KA-E parts? lol
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
:( I was really disappointed. The guy lied about so many things on it. The interior was bad. Only the headlights and brake lights worked. The clutch was locked to the floor. It was just bad. Oh well got a few more to check out and either way I'm saving up so eventually I might just buy a really good condition one. Stupid kids ruining all of the 240s and then jacking up prices. Anyways thanks a lot for all of the help ka. I'm sure I'll be getting parts from you for something lol and where is STL? St Louis?
 
#16 ·
Yeah, St. Louis Missouri. I hate the whole 240 trend that going on now. Run the car to the ground, then expect top dollar for a car that needs more work than what its worth. How much was he asking for it btw?
Well if you ever need anything, feel free to PM me. Chances are I have it, lol.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
The cheapest are $700 which is what he wanted. I just talked to a guy with a 93 coupe. got him down to $650 so far but it has a big dent in the driver side door/quarter panel seem. Needs a new windshield. It's auto. Rocking the stock steelies. Needs a headlight motor. He says it will start up but definitely needs the timing fixed.

I need to sell my automatic coupe 240sx by the end of today, ideally. Has damage on driver's side door and behind. No frame damage, door closes fine, it just looks ugly. Lower timing chain is not set correctly, so it needs to be towed. If your interested but don't want to pay for a tow, I can most likely get it towed for your. Like I said, I need this car out of here. 169xxx on the chassis, 65xxx on motor. Was my daily driver until I messed with it. Now the lower timing chain needs to be set correctly. Once that is done, it'll be a dd again. No holes on the trunk from spoilers, good interior.

I might check it out tomorrow. Got any windshields? Lol
 
#18 ·
No, no windshields, lol. I'd be leery about the "timing not set correctly" thing. Bent valves will ruin your day. It will still run with bent valves, so make sure he can do a compression test/leak-down test for you before you buy it. If the chain jumped while he was driving it, chances are the valves are bent.
 
#20 ·
$650 isn't bad for a non- running engine, as long as the chassis is in good shape. At least your getting most of the engine parts, and free shipping. Even if the valves are bent, buy a re-man head, change all the old gaskets and you'll have a running 93' coupe for less than $1000.
No, you don't owe me anything man. That's why this forum exists.

How bad is the damage behind the door?
 
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