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My SR20DET S13 Build...

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
The list of parts keeps growing and growing... It is like a never ending saga of research, understand, and expand on the knowledge and the existing plans.

Also need a GReddy high capacity oil pan, S14/S14 drain filter, Oil filter relocation kit, Tial blow off valve, shiny catch can, GReddy air filter, FMIC, Downpipe, and more.

Not to mention I have to start researching internals now that I have committed to doing this right (thank you gwar10!).

Engine was $1,500 and that was nothing in retrospect. Anyone know if $1200 shipped for a Garrett GT2871R .64 with new wastegate actuator is a good deal? Am I really considering paying nearly as much for the turbo as the engine???? FML!?!?! :fonix:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Passed out last night from exhaustion, but managed to open this little box up to find my new (to me anyway) Z32 Mass Air Flow Sensor. Needs some cleaning, but otherwise grrrrrreat!!!! Anyone know if I can spray a light mist of water though this thing and clean it out a bit??
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#26 ·
Great idea on that gasket kit, synthetic oil ( like royal purple ) will find the tiniest weak spot in a gasket and leak out. I love royal purple and recommend it for engines and trannies, Ive for one used it in every build that I have done and it has never let me down. Cheers bud.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
BoostinIX - Thank you for the tip, I will definitely look to pick some up.

_ZenkiS14_ - From everything I read, you absolutely need to get new gaskets on the engine. I am still trying to figure out what goes where. Royal Purple it is!!! I have heard that some people with flush the system with a cheaper product and then refill with RP.
 
#28 ·
Don't use royal purple its junk. Use either Ams oil or Motul. Ams oil 10-40 or motul 5-40 ftw!!! If you are breaking in a motor you should break it in with regular oil not synthetic. I suggest castrol for this.


First off I am glad to see you using common sense and getting a gasket kit. You don't need forged internals for what your doing. I do highly recommend getting new piston rings as well as connecting rod and crank bearings. You should take the engine apart and bring the block, internals, and head to a machine shop and get it hot tanked and get the head decked. If you have the coin you could even have them blue print it.


as far as fuel rails go I would go with Aeromotive.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
word_sux - Great info, thank you so much!! I do have some questions for you if you don't mind? You seem to have a good amount of experience with this and my research has left me short on a few minor details. How much should I be expecting to pay for the hot tanking and getting the head decked? Local shops have prices all over the place? And I will have to research blueprinting, I am not exactly sure what that does.

I'll be traveling on business until mid-week next week, so I appologize in advance for slow updates. This project is not going to stop until I finish.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Still traveling on business, but picked up a super rare 1973 JDM Datsun 1600 SSS Bluebird grill with all original emblems in tact. Not cheap at $1200, but that is the cost of being rare. Also picked up NISMO SR20DET engine and transmission mounts. Pics to follow when I return.

Having trouble finding a good car in Japan at a fair price. Found one in the US for $25k, but I have found many in Japan for half that. Anyone have any import expience?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
No, the transmission bolts were just a little shorter than perfect for the engine stand. I'm sure they would have worked, but since I was buying bolts I figured why not get it 100% right? I'll be home tomorrow morning. I'll snap some comparison pics when I get back.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Back home!! Soooooooo glad to be back. As promised Mungface78, the pictures of the bolts like I described them... Still buying up all the requisite parts and researching breakind down the block and blueprinting it. This stuff can get complicated, but if you're going to do it, do it right! Right?

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
I used one 1/2" Flat Washer with each bolt. I am getting so frustrated. I can't rent a hoist locally, my lazy asss friends won't touch the engine to help out, and I need to get this thing on the stand. Drifting dot come has not sent me my DVD on the SR20DET rebuild and I have called them three times over a month and a half now. This stall of trying to do things the right way is eating away at me.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Finally got my DVD and the boys over at Drifting dot com hooked me up with a free SR20DET t-shirt to make-up for the long wait time. Thank you gentlemen!! I watched the entire thing and I must admit that I am intimidated... I really don't know if I should got to this extent in order to make 375-400 hp. The stock internals are more than capable... so conflicted... anyone have any thoughts???

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#39 ·
my friend german from gsmotorsports says he could build a sr20 on stock block to 500 hp. there are a lot of articles about 400+ on bottom end, but for how long I think we can be skeptical. the block is aluminum so it should be pretty tough. but I see why you're iffy, I wouldnt run anything past 350 on stock bottom end just to be safe as we dont know how hard the previous owners drove them....but I mean if your compression tests are good and since you are getting new gaskets I think everything should be fine. but then again, I am only 19 so just another food for thought.
 
#40 ·
Its threads like this, and looking at my local JDM Engine seller that makes me think about keeping my car and getting an SR20DET for it instead of getting a honda and turboing that for about the same price or more.

Love the thread cant wait for more updates
 
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Ellafernz
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