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S13 KA24DET Build - The PussyKAT -

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Discussion starter · #381 ·
So i there a certain msd blaster coil I should get? Or is there a universal one that will work? I looked around a little bit, but i just wanted to make sure that I was getting the right thing... Thanks again for your help guys.
 
#382 ·
Just to chime in, this definitly sounds like an ignition problem. I had similar issues on my high compression
ka24de and never even considered that the plug wires were an issue (due to having upgraded MSD's).
the car would pull hard randomly and at other times feel like it was hitting fuel cut
Two months later i swaped them for oem altima ones when i was at the junkyard, and bam problems gone.

So my point is, check all your wires, spark plugs, get a new coilpack, dizzy rotor, maybe even entire distributor, make sure your injecter o rings are good, etc etc. . .

Its always best to check everything that requires routine matinence before going on to all the other stuff.

Good luck on getting the issue resolved
 
#384 ·
s13Vanessa said:
Im running an HKS adjustable actuator. So boost controller shouldn't be a problem.
Click to expand...
This set a flag in my head. You are running an adjustable/aftermarket actuator? Do you have a stock/OEM non adjustable one you could try? That would have been one of the first things I would have tried in troubleshooting this problem.

I don't disagree with the ignition system checkout, however I don't think you can judge a coil by it's cover/size/shape. The FWD SR20DET from Bluebirds have the same coil and I've never experienced nor heard of inherent problems with them even with increased boost. With that said, do check yours out by whatever means you want, but don't assume it's weak because of its size. Also, I've never heard of anyone gaining anything by going with aftermarket wires. You might double check yours or replacing them if they're old anyway.

Just a couple a cents
 
Discussion starter · #385 ·
bmoses said:
This set a flag in my head. You are running an adjustable/aftermarket actuator? Do you have a stock/OEM non adjustable one you could try? That would have been one of the first things I would have tried in troubleshooting this problem.
Click to expand...
One of the first things i did was try a different actuator. Two of them actually. Didn't make any difference...
 
Discussion starter · #388 ·
starcrutch said:
Are you blowing out the spark?
Click to expand...
That was my first thought... I had the plugs gapped to .035 originally. Gapped them down to .020 now.... Problem is still there. .020 is a pretty small gap so it shouldn't be blowing out the spark.
 
#390 ·
I would like to second the suggestion of checking the ohm resistance of your spark plug wires.

How are you checking to see if your 240 is over heating? The stock temp gauge only works as well as the sending unit and wiring does. And if your coolant temp sensor is starting to go bad then your ECU won't know what temp your engine is at. That one thing could cause your AFR and sputtering problems.

This does seem like more of an ignition problem but I wouldn't rule out a faulty sensor yet.
 
Discussion starter · #391 ·
Well now I have another issue to figure out...

My car had been sitting for a while because of the weather. I went to drive it the other day cause it finally cleared up. Had to jump the battery. Went to start it up and it was definitely missing on a cylinder. Popped the hood and pulled out the spark plugs one at a time. Made no difference when i did it on #1 cylinder... Checked for spark and verified it was there on both sides of the sp wire. So then I moved over to fuel... There was definitely a difference when I pulled the injector on #1. It was strange though.. Pulling the injector harness plug in and out would cause the engine to fluctuate (smooth and then rough idle). I turned the car off and noticed then that pulling the harness plug in and out caused the injector to click, even with the car off. I didn't have the time to deal with it so I just left the whole thing alone.

That was a couple weeks ago... So about 4 days ago I went out to take a look at it again. Gave it a jump, started it up, and it ran fine. Idle was smooth, and afrs looked fine. Drove it at work all day and then all next day as well. Had no problems at all.
Except then my a/f gauge stopped working. Has an error message of 3 on the gauge. I need to call prosport and find out what the deal is.... I checked the black box that the sensor and gauge connect to and it has a crack in it, so that may be the issue.

But anyway, so the problem had mysteriously disappeared. Probably drove the car around 150 miles in those two days. Then the late night of the second day I was driving to a friends house and pulled into their driveway and out of no where the car started missing again. Right when it started missing you could smell a strong fuel smell. I gave it some gas, revved it up a bit, problem disappeared. Sat there for 15 to 20 seconds, idle was fine. Then for 1 or 2 second it started missing again and then smoothed out. I let it idle for another 30 seconds ago, was idling smooth again. I shut off the car. About 15 minutes later I came back out. Tried to turn it over and it wouldn't even start. It reeked of gas.

I didn't want to deal with it that night so I let it sit overnight. Came back the next day to look at it and first thing i did was pull the #1 plug to see if it was soiled or anything. It looked fine and was dry. Put it back in and went to start the car. It was completely dead. It had been sitting for maybe 15 hours and the battery in the car is only a couple months old...

So I jumped it, and tried to turn it over. It was very slow to start and when it did, it was running horribly. It wouldn't even run without keeping your foot on the gas. Well i was ready to say screw it again. It took off the jumper cables and went to start it again. The lights turned on inside but absolutely nothing from the motor. Then it started clicking intermittently. I don't know where this sound came from or what it was, but even after i turned the key to off and took it out, the clicking sound continued. IT was about 3 clicks a second and fairly loud. I finally had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. When i reconnected the batt. it was not doing it anymore.

So that was were I left off. Had to get the car towed back to my house. my first guess here is a wiring issue because I don't know if you all remember, but when I had my engine fire this last summer I had to repair the harness. Although I have driven about 3000 miles since then, a problem may have developed. Or there is a bad ground somewhere. But I already ordered an uncut harness and am waiting for it to get here. So im going to put that harness in, because I should have done it in the first place.

The last thing I need is another major issue right now... :gaah:
 
#393 ·
as far as the idle/misfiring, you might be getting a vacuum leak on one of the injectors. when you crank the motor maybe the harness moves enough to move one of the injectors to create a vacuum leak. i had that problem with my car last year. i put new o-rings on the injectors and took care of that problem.

as far as the wiring, it may just be a bad ground, or a ground that got loose. check those out first.
 
#395 ·
Obviously no motor in the S13! :)

As for your new problem. You said when you connected the harness plug to the injector with car off you still heard a click? That defnitely sounds like the injectors being 'driven' while the ignition system is off. If so that would explain the strong gas fumes. Also, it would have literally filled up your #1 cylinder with gas while sitting there effectively depressurizing the entire fuel system into that single cylinder. Do you have a patched or hacked wiring harness? I might guess this could be source of your first problem as well. It sounds like an intermittent loose/bad connection in the harness. When you can test the injector plug again, use a multimeter and see if there's battery on one pin and ground on another with the key OFF. I believe with the key ON, but engine not running, you should see battery on both pins. IF you hooked up an oscilliscope to the signal pin of the injector, (the one going to the ECU), you'd see pulses to ground when the ECU was firing the injector. i.e. low side drive.

As I continue to think... if your harness is hacked, someone could have just put straight battery to all four injectors, bypassing the ignistion switch circuit. This wouldn't be a problem, unless of course one of your four injector signal wires, supplied by the ECU, was loose and somehow being shorted to ground. If this was the case you could possibly have this closed circuit while the car is completely OFF. Under normal circumstances there's no battery present at the injectors until you Key ON.
 
Discussion starter · #397 ·
Just waitin on the wiring harness... Still haven't heard anything and its been over a week since i placed the order. Hope fully it comes soon and i can get that problem out of the way...
 
Discussion starter · #399 ·
Alright so here we go again :(

Got the new harness for the car, put it in.... Was pretty straightforward.
But went to start it and no change. Car still wont idle, runs terrible... Runs, but you have to give it gas.

And its still apparently running very rich. Pulled out all the plugs and they are all soaked with fuel.

Also, I put in another coil cause of everyone saying stuff about ignition problems. But apparently none of it made any difference.

Im just up over my head here and tired of dealing with this. I have that nagging thought of scrapping it all and going Sr again. Im just trying to find a mechanic because im tired and don't know what to do.
 
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s13Vanessa
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