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DemonSlayer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Aw hell. I got done typing up a long old thing and i accidentally closed the tab. Long story short then, well, shorter.

I bought a 92 sun roof hatch with a ka-t. The motor had to be built and stuff still. All the stuff the guy bought was off ebay so its all fake. I sold everything and made profit. Then I bought a SR.

Dad and I have done v8s and stuff but never a turbo so this is all new. I got a black top s13 sr. Checked the oil line to the turbo and it was perfectly clean. Really good motor. Pulled the sensors out of my ka tranny and put them in the sr, 3 sensors in total i think. Got a koyo rad and fmic. I kept the knock off bov. I'm doing this on a budget. I just wanna get it running so I can drive it to work, I'm in a pos 2.3L fox body mustang that has no balls... OH, I also have a walbro fuel pump.

I have a little hose on the top of the motor on the passenger side right above the fan, no idea where it goes. Any help? I also have a circular thing on the driver side sticking off the head, I think its a cam sensor of some kind. Its got bent prongs. Does anything plug into it? Should we just bend it back? How do I get AC? Do I just make my own lines and stuff? How can I hook up my fmic? I didn't get any mounting stuff. Do I have to cut the metal bumper support to get the intercooler to fit? Piping, I have to make my own, shouldn't be to hard. Just buy the crap I need and get it to work. I kept the knock off bov to use until I can afford a real one.

I'll include a few pics, first one I have is that hose I told you about. Then I have a knock off bov and dump valve? Sorry, new to turbos, I barely know what these are. I looked the dump valve up on the net, forge diverter its also called? It says blow off valve on it. I have both of them, where exactly do they go? The one on the left looks like it fits in the throttle body and goes down to the IC just fine, kinda sticks up a bit, I'm not sure if it will clear the hood... I'm not sure about the one on the right. They both say blow off valve... so whats what? Should I just buy a real one as these ones are knock offs "m sure off ebay. I don't have much money left, doing this on a super budget so ya. I have a turbo timer/boost gauge already in the car. Not sure if the previous owner wired them up. Can we just wait and fire up the car and see if they work?

Also, Anyone have pics of there engine compartments so I can see, I would love see'ing how you guys mounted your IC and all of that stuff.

Thanks for any help you guys, I'm gonna go out and work on it. Finish hooking up my wiring harness and change the spark plugs (i forgot when motor was out of car). Oops, pics are to big to put on here? Weird, I'll imageshack them.

ImageShack Album - 2 images
 
#2 ·
That hose is for the IACV. It needs to hook up with the Intercooler piping (your cold pipe should have a nipple for it).

As for the circular thing on the driver side, if it's right at the front of the valve cover and has a plug on it, that's your Crank Angle Sensor.

As for the BOV's, one is a HKS SSQV copy, while the other looks like a Greddy copy. Either should work, though I don't trust ebay knockoffs. A BOV can go any where on your intake system, though for ease of install, I would suggest you put it on the cold pipe.

I'll post pics of my swap when I get over to the shop this weekend if you want some reference points.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I'm doing all the intercooler piping myself, I don't have anything pre bought for it. Which of the 2 bov's would you recommend? I knew they were knock offs, I just want something to run on for now until I can buy a real one. I got it with the car so it was free. What is this cold pipe you speak of? We don't really know much about the whole turbo system. I have the basics down but not the finer points. I read a swap guide on here that had all the little vaccum parts, I'm pretty sure we can get that just fine. Thanks for the help. OH, does that crank angle sensor plug in anywhere? Because it looks like the plastic around it is kinda broken, not the circular part but it looks like a piece comes up and its broken off.
 
#4 ·
DemonSlayer said:
I'm doing all the intercooler piping myself, I don't have anything pre bought for it. Which of the 2 bov's would you recommend? I knew they were knock offs, I just want something to run on for now until I can buy a real one. I got it with the car so it was free. What is this cold pipe you speak of? We don't really know much about the whole turbo system. I have the basics down but not the finer points. I read a swap guide on here that had all the little vaccum parts, I'm pretty sure we can get that just fine. Thanks for the help. OH, does that crank angle sensor plug in anywhere? Because it looks like the plastic around it is kinda broken, not the circular part but it looks like a piece comes up and its broken off.
Click to expand...
Knock offs are knock offs, I don't think one will out perform the other per-say. I'd try the SSQV one first, then if it doesn't, try the Greddy.

The cold pipe, is the intercooler pipe that runs from the Intercooler to the throttle body (hot pipe runs from the turbo to the intercooler). This is what my cold pipe looks like
Image

See that small pipe that comes off the main pipe? That's where the IACV hose hooks up. If you're doing your own piping, you need to remember to add that and a nipple on the hot pipe for the wastegate actuator unless you have an alternative plan for that vacuum hose.

The Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) should have a plug on the Engine Wiring Harness. Off the top of my head, I think the plug is at the end of the leg of wire that has the injectors on it. not 100% though (my engine came with that part of the harness plugged in still). If just the cover is broken, that's not bad, but if the actual sensor is damaged, they're not cheap.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The sensor is fine. We got it plugged in. We have everything on the motor wire wise but we got left with a bunch of spaghetti... We had a guy do the wiring. But he said he would help but he kinda just ditched me. How hard would it be to make my own piping? Should i just buy a kit off the net? Do they sell just piping? Im worried about the nipples. There was a vacuum guide on here ill read fir all that.
 
#6 ·
DemonSlayer said:
The sensor is fine. We got it plugged in. We have everything on the motor wire wise but we got left with a bunch of spaghetti... We had a guy do the wiring. But he said he would help but he kinda just ditched me. How hard would it be to make my own piping? Should i just buy a kit off the net? Do they sell just piping? Im worried about the nipples. There was a vacuum guide on here ill read fir all that.
Click to expand...
Wiring harness guide that I used (should help you get rid of the spaghetti)
SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20
It's pretty easy to do if you know how to solder.

As for the intercooler piping, I find it's not worth the hassle, but I'm a horrible fabricator. I bought a kit, and it made the FMIC setup headache free. They probably sell piping as long as your intercooler is designed like a name brand intercooler, then get a piping kit for the appropriate brand name.

Vacuum lines are this easy (copied from the guide I used).

"The vacuum lines are simple: 3 lines start at the throttle body. The bottom one goes to the canister, block it off unless you are using the canister. The larger one on top runs to the bypass valve
(BOV), there should be no tee’s or branches – go directly to
the BOV. The smaller top line splits to the fuel pressure regulator, and runs across the front of the engine to your boost gauge and/or the boost pressure port on your boost controller.​
The wastegate gets its signal from the nipple on the intercooler piping."

An alternative to the hotpipe nipple for the WG actuator, is a coupler nipple kit.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Well, I had a guy do it for me. But I was left with a bunch of shit that idk what goes where. I would have thought he woulda cut the excess stuff out... As it stands I have a good 3' of random bullshit wires that go nowhere. I tried finding a piping kit minus the IC but can't, I'll probably just buy one off egay for now. The 240 I bought was a hack job, the previous owner did a bunch of stupid shit. He tried to redo all the electrical lights so I don't have pop ups and I have a bunch of random crap everywhere. I'm probably gonna rob the pop ups off my other 240 and fix it... Kinda bugs. I also have a huge chunk in the trunk missing because he put an external fuel pump in... so I pulled it and gonna reweld the hole shut since I put a walbro in...
 
#8 ·
Use the wiring guide to figure out if he got the stuff right that he needed to, then you can cut and tape off those extra wires that go no where.

You could go the opposite way with your FMIC and sell the intercooler then buy a whole kit so that you know it all fits together perfectly and you'll get the nuts, bolts, and brackets to mount it properly.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I'm buying a fmic kit off cx racing now. The one I am buying has the intercooler, mounting hardware, piping, all that. However, there is no hole for the bov. So I'll I'll just pull the HKS wannabe off and cut a hole and weld it all together. Luckily I know a super good welder, he was a big time welder in the navy. Now I gotta wait for it to come in. Guess I'll work on the wiring crap, my front end wiring is all jacked. The guy redid all the headlight wiring... Kinda sucks.....
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Working on the car again, had a motorcycle event to do this past week. My hks wannabe doesn't have a nipple on it... Its broken. I really wanted to use that one to. Guess I'll have to use the greddy one... I just bought an adapter thingy to put the hks one on my cold pipe. Guess I'll just resell it or something. How do I do the WG actuator? There is a nipple on it but I'm not sure what goes to it o.0
 
#11 ·
DemonSlayer said:
Working on the car again, had a motorcycle event to do this past week. My hks wannabe doesn't have a nipple on it... Its broken. I really wanted to use that one to. Guess I'll have to use the greddy one... I just bought an adapter thingy to put the hks one on my cold pipe. Guess I'll just resell it or something. How do I do the WG actuator? There is a nipple on it but I'm not sure what goes to it o.0
Click to expand...
A Nipple on the actuator? That's for a hose to go to a boost source. I'm using a ATP quick tap in my outlet coupler for the boost source, but you could have brass nipple welded to the turbo outlet or hotpipe. It's best to have the boost source be as close as possible to the turbo.

If the flange you bought is a legitimate HKS flange, I'd just keep it as it's not worth much, and when you buy a non-knockoff BOV, you can buy a SSQV and already have the flange.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Ran into a problem. We are trying to start it because the 30 day warranty is about to expire and I wanna make sure it doesn't knock. We got fuel but it wont start. We even put gas down the TB (ic piping isn't hooked up fully) and it still wouldn't start. We pulled a spark plug and it was dry and no gas smell on it at all. When we put a little starter fluid down the TB it would bump once or twice and then go back to just turning over... I don't understand how I can have spark, air, and fuel going in but it not start. Fuel is getting lost somewhere in the motor... Even then, where is the fuel I've put in going. Sense, it makes none o_O
 
#13 ·
Do the job right man. Obviously you aren't getting fuel if your sparkplugs are dry.

Also, remember to prime the engine with oil before you try to get the engine to start.

Hook up the IC fully.
Check if the fuel pump turns on.
Make sure fuel lines are hooked up properly (filter goes to rail, FPR goes to return line).
Make sure vacuum hose for FPR is connected properly.
Make sure all injectors are plugged in properly.

Those are all the basic things to check for fuel that I can think of.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Napoleon-S13 said:
Do the job right man. Obviously you aren't getting fuel if your sparkplugs are dry.

Also, remember to prime the engine with oil before you try to get the engine to start.

Hook up the IC fully.
Check if the fuel pump turns on.
Make sure fuel lines are hooked up properly (filter goes to rail, FPR goes to return line).
Make sure vacuum hose for FPR is connected properly.
Make sure all injectors are plugged in properly.

Those are all the basic things to check for fuel that I can think of.
Click to expand...
The fuel pump turns on, checked that already. I'll verify the fuel lines but im pretty sure those are right. The vaccum hose for the fpr is hooked up right, i have the other vaccum stuff plugged for the moment and all injectors are solid. I wanna get it running today because its the last day for my 30 day warranty, wanna make sure i have no knocks and stuff. Thats the only reason we were putting fuel down the tb, just to get it to start for a few seconds so we can make sure it doesn't knock. I have been repairing a few damaged spots on the car, the car was rather jacked up, big holes cut in it and shit so i have been welding new metal to fix it all... bleh. Well, I'll go check the lines and stuff. Also, i gotta get a new oil pan. Mine is dent free but it leaks. Just a little. I mean like, a very very VERY tiny leak. I'm just gonna get the greddy one though and be done with it.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Sorry for posting again but i don't wanna make New threads. Fuel works great now. Had no spark. Was missing ignitor chip. I read a 95+ q45 one plugs right in. No rewire. I also here 96+ only does that. I can't find a right answer. I got one out of a 95. Part number 22020-50f01. Or should i.just buy an oem 22020-50f00 off egay?

Also. The car won't start. It turns over and it tries. You hear it. It sounds like those cars that start weak then go vroom but instead of going vroom it goes kaput. Also sorry. At work on my phone. Net here sucks.
 
#16 ·
The Zilvia parts comparison says a Q45 ignitor chip from '95 is a direct replacement.

It's going "kaput" with the Q45 ignitor chip installed? If you haven't installed the ignitor chip, it's obviously not going to start.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Yes. I plugged the ignitor chip in. It wants to start but cant. You hear it almost starting, expecting it to but then it dies. I have spark, more then enough fuel, only thing I can think of is I'm not getting air but I don't see how I couldn't be as I have all the IC piping hooked up right and all the vaccum stuff hooked up. I have all the plugs plugged in I believe. Only thing I don't have is power steering stuff because I haven't hooked it up yet.
 
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Napoleon-S13
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