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Totaled coupe, new hatch, another build thread.

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
I believe they are two piston. I'm sure they're nothing fancy, but they're a lot bigger than the factory ones so I'm going to use them for now. I also realized last night that I got ripped off on Ebay. I bought an upper oil pan and three holes are completely stripped so, now I have to track down another one and they have not been easy to find so far.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I brought everything to my garage yesterday. Pressure washed the engine bay and transmission the best I could. I used Tal-strip on the valve cover to take off all the paint. I'm going to find out how much work polishing it will be. I ordered Nismo motor mounts, and new tie rod ends that will hopefully be here this week. I left my camera in the girlfriend's ride:fonix: I'll post pics up tonight hopefully. Someone PLEASE help me find an upper oil pan!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I finally have the car in my own clean, organized garage.
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I was waiting for a spanner wrench to adjust my coilovers before I installed them, but I found a vise-grip style oil filter wrench works great. And before you flame my ass, the xxr's are on the front because the factory wheels wont clear the suspension. lol
I'm sending back the Nismo motor mounts. I did a little research and decided I would rather have the Delrin poly mounts, which are a third of the price as well. Some jerk sent me the wrong tie rod ends too. I looked the p/n up and they're for a s14. I also purchased an upper oil pan from s13drifta, so hopefully I wont get ripped off like the last one I bought.

After 3 cans of degreaser, and 30 minutes of pressure washing, I finally got the caked oil out of the bay.
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I've been reading about deleting Hicas, and I decided I want to completely rid my car of it. All the lines, solenoids and everything. I ordered the AMS delete kit (right before I found the SPL kit:fonix:) It comes with the fitting to block off the lines at the rear rack, so if anyone needs it just send me your address and I'll mail it to you.
I took the ps hard line off of my coupe to replace the Hicas line that goes across the k member and to the rear of the car.
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Got rid of all this junk, plus a solenoid that isn't pictured. I haven't taken the rear solenoid or rack off yet.
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Changing subjects a little, when I bought the t28 turbo I drilled out the t25 oil drain to fit and bent it as much as I could to be clear of the steering column. When I removed it the new drain hose I had used for only 4 days was worn from contact. I tried clocking the turbo slightly to solve this and I can not get the exhaust scroll to break loose from the chra. Any ideas??
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Deleted the rest of the Hicas tonight. Started polishing the valve cover. I'll post pics soon. I left my camera with the girl friend, again. Looking at wheels and exhaust. I have no idea what to do for exhaust. I'm looking into Enkei RPF1's, 17x9 all around with 245/40's. I haven't seen anyone running a tire that fat so I'm still a little unsure on offset. I thing I need +22 but I'm not sure. I've been all over Rimtuck and Zilvia but noone is running the same setup. I have a fender roller on the way so maybe I can just make the fenders fit the wheels. Somebody give me your opinion on exhaust..
 
#27 ·
+22 with a 245 40 on a 9 will be fine, especially if you have a fender roller.
You shouldnt have to even do a pull, most likely just knock in the lip.

As far as exhausts, I like cheap ones provided they are 3" and manderal bent. My last several exhausts were either chepos, or built from broken cheapos and parts store strait sections and manderal bends that were setup pieces (flawed but not bad and cheap).

I really dont thing there is much of a reason to buy a real expensive exhaust .
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I like your thinking. The coupe came with a GReddy Racing Titanium system that is suppose to be pretty nice. Not the fake Ti-C or whatever that is really stainless. The whole system weighs just under 11lbs., but titanium is brittle and all of the hangers are broken. Plus, I left the big ring that goes around the can to hold it up, under the coupe when I sold it. I can't find one anywhere. I'm going to look around the maintenance shop at work tomorrow and see if I have the proper gas and filler to weld titanium. Maybe I can salvage it. But anyways, I have a question for you 4x4le. Before I make plans for you to tune my engine I have to buy injectors, and I'm kind of stuck. I looked at 550's but I don't want to upgrade the turbo and max them out, then I heard running too large of an injector creates idling problems and gas mileage to drop. I then looked into Injector Dynamics who claim you can run they're 1000cc units on a stock n/a car with no problems. Enlighten me.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
The ID's are 11mm and 14mm. I'll have to have one made if I can't find that size. The deer was suicidal lol but I'm kind of happy about the outcome. The hatch is ten times nicer than the coupe was. Update, I bought a 3" elbow and downpipe, received the correct tie rod ends, new rack boots, water fittings for the turbo, ss clutch line, s14 oil pick up, Aem air filter, and B&M shifter. Going to get my camera today and picking up a few more parts. I'll post pics asap.
 
#34 ·
I have a genuine greddy manifold, but its the first gen one. I didnt realize this when I bought my greddy fuel rail that is DIRECT FIT to the greddy manifold. It dont fit. It did fit the 11mm IDs though. I had to make an adapter in order for the fuel rail to fit my manifold. I called greddy about this and they told me all they can tell me is that I would need to buy a new greddy manifold if I wanted my rail to fit. Last part I ever purchase from them again will be that rail. My car is filled with greddy stuff and their advertising is wrong on their site and they were un willing to exchange my manifold with me even at a cost.

Im yet to know if my adapter is all the way right, Ill have to wait until my engine is ready to run first.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
What a pain. I'm dealing with the same type of crappy customer service. I'm still using a factory manifold so maybe I can find something to fit. This is why you shouldn't buy junk from ebay..
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Bought the Isis 3" outlet, the downpipe from ebay is what had the flange welded on ass backwards..
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Made some progress on my valve cover. It's not really as bad as everyone says.
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B&M came. Factory knob fits, made me happy.
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#36 ·
nice build man. too bad for the coupe, but great progress on the hatch. by the way those brakes are Q45 brakes. they are a low budget bbk for the s chassis.
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the brakes. I noticed the Nissan emblem on the back of the calipers but I had no idea what they were from. I'm partial to the coupe body but I'm slowly starting to like the hatch. Hopefully I will be throwing this mess together over the next couple weeks.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I was suprised in how much shorter the throw is with the B&M. Anyways, I've been looking at injectors and I'm not sure if I'm going to mess with the fuel rail or not. It seems pretty confusing so far as to which fuel rails are the correct size for the ID 1000s, and which ones come with nipples for rubber fuel line instead of AN fittings and so on.. I'm debating just using side feeds. Although they're not cheap, I'm thinking HKS or Tomei are the best bet for quality injectors. Let me know what you think. I want them to be easy for you to tune. And I know Deatchwerks are a no-no.
 
#40 ·
Awesome build so far, sucks to lose the coupe though. I noticed you pulled the entire carpet out of the interior, was curious if you planned on replacing it with better carpeting or if you planned on ridding of it entirely.

I ask because the 240 coupe I just bought had a serious smoker and has burn holes all in the floor lining and seats, and to rid of the smell I ditched both carpet and seat and am looking to replace both, seats are easy to find, but I was hoping to find a carpet to fit rather then make it fit.
 
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