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Stalling out when Clutch-in KADET

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Jifter

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
First off I would like to let you guys know my setup

stock KA24DE
Walbro 255/zx filter
Stock injectors
Stock MAF
SR T25 on stock psi
Ebay bottom mount mani
24" CX racing FMIC
HKS v3 BOV (vented to atmosphere)
8:1 FMU for now

Alright so ever since I turboed my KADE, its been dying when I clutch-in from over 2000rpm. When I clutch-in from 1900rpm, the rpm drops down to like 200rpm and will then rise to 500 (sometimes stays at 500 for like 5 seconds) and then goes back to normal idle at 700-800rpm. If I clutch-in from anything over 2000rpm, it will always stall out.

My wideband reads very lean at idle reading around 16.4-16.8 (brand new AEM WB). The wideband reads healthy throughout the range while driving (between 10.5-13). So basically my engine is cutting out because its going very lean at idle..

I have already tried cleaning the AIV and MAF with no improvement. I have checked for vacuum leaks with starter fluid but couldn't find any.

I know that I have a very small exhaust leak at the T2 flange but as I said, its very light.

Im thinking that my MAF might be bad..? Should I try resetting my ECU? A bad FPR?

I have a drift event coming up in 3 weeks that I'd like to attend (already missed the first one because of this). Any suggestions would be great!

Jake
 
#3 ·
How far/where is the MAF mounted? If its too close to the Turbo it could cause false readings and make the car stumble and die. What's your timing at? You should be a minimum or 5* retarded from stock.

Does it idle steady? What rpm?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Scoot said:
How far/where is the MAF mounted? If its too close to the Turbo it could cause false readings and make the car stumble and die. What's your timing at? You should be a minimum or 5* retarded from stock.

Does it idle steady? What rpm?
Click to expand...
The MAF is a draw through setup. Its got a straight 10" pipe going to the turbo inlet so turbulence shouldnt be the problem.

Im not sure what my timing is exactly but I retarded it by 2 deg from where I had it N/A. My idle is smooth and consistent. Its idling a bit low at like 600rpm with the warmer weather. Before the turbo it would idle at 800rpm.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
champ_6 said:
The leak at the T2 flange will def make it read lean. Get that fixed asap. Also a lot of people have stalling issues with atmospheric BOV's. Do you have a dedicated vacuum line for the BOV or do you have it split somewhere?
Click to expand...
Yeah I will try to get the leak fixed asap.

The BOV is Ted off from one of the lines on the back of the intake manifold. My FMU is hooked up a different line.

The BOV isn't leaking at idle.
 
#7 ·
I would personally retard the timing more and open the IACV Screw to bring the idle back up to 700+. That may be an issuse w/ your base idle set too low why the IAC/ECU can't catch the idle in time.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I tried to unscrew the AIV idle screw but the thing is seized and wont budge.. While doing this I could hear a vac leak.. I found a leak in my brake booster hose. I taped it up tight and my idle went up to about 800 from 600rpm. My idle is still lean though at around 17:1. I didn't get to take it out on the road yet but im sure the engine will still stall out since its idling so lean.
 
#10 ·
That isn't so bad for idle. Some guys tune like that for Fuel economy reasons. But I know your not on a Tune lol.
What's your FP? What kind of Wideband we talking about here?
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Got it fixed! New IACV installed and runs great. Idles around 900rpm. I cant get the RPM to drop below 650 even with my BOV vented. Thanks for your help guys

EDIT: the excitement was short lived. The new IACV had raised my idle RPM therefor keeping it from stalling out. Once I lowered the idle RPM with the idle screw, the stalling problem was back.
Image


I'm thinking it must be a bad FPR (slow to react to vacuum pressure changes), bad MAF, bad ECU. Feel free to toss some more ideas around
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Alright I THINK I finally figured out my problem.

Today I got really pissed off at this issue and focused on the details. I noticed that the faster my car was in motion, the lower my idle was (car in neutral when in motion). I tried to figure out how the motion of my car can have an effect on my idle. I realized that the only difference between it being stopped or in motion (obviously) is ram-air..

So I went ahead and removed my air filter off my MAF and the car kept idling without a problem, until the slightest breeze came and my car shut off
Image
! At first I didn't believe it was a light breeze that killed my engine but it turns out it was. I started it up again and blew in the MAF and it died again instantly..

Here is a short vid I just made of me waving my hand in-front of the MAF and killing the engine. I hope that you guys tell me that this isn't normal because im feeling fairly confident at this point that I found my problem
Image
.

Don't mind the temporary pipe. It was just to get the MAF away from the hot parts in the engine bay.. It was air tight.

Is this normal? at 0:49 I lightly blew into the MAF causing it to almost kill my engine.
KA24DET Bad MAF? - YouTube
 
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Jifter
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